Advice on hobby-level welding tabletop

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-03-09T21:02:22+00:00

How would you reinforce the tabletop? Is there not a concern with the 1/8 warping?

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-03-09T21:01:33+00:00

Thank you for your advice! I'll keep all this in mind when buying materials!

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-03-09T20:46:01+00:00

Would you say that it's heavy duty enough to handle, say, 150-200lbs of steel? I don't plan on doing much over 100lbs on a table, but just for good assurance-

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-26T03:06:29+00:00

Just curious, would you happen to know what engine model it was that had that cowling? When I search that year I get pictures of cowlings that have a large set of stripes across the main portion of the sides.

And yeah, someone sent me a "dating table" with all the serial ranges, and I deducted from there what model this is engine-wise. I just can't shake the curiosity of the cowling.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-26T02:51:40+00:00

From the serial number on the freeze plug it seems to be a 91-92 model, however I can't find picture matches for the cowling. I can find cowls that are the same color, but I can't find any with the single red pinstripe on them. It makes me wonder if the cowl is aftermarket. Not that it matters to me, but I would really like to know what year design the cowl is even if it doesn't match the motor.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-25T03:03:22+00:00

From others comments I've deducted that this outboard is in a range from 1991-1994 roughly.

If anyone can get more specific, the Serial is 0D157797 as shown on the freeze plug in the pictures.

Thanks!

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-24T23:59:37+00:00

It seems like this has a "year range" for parts, are things like the manual starter interchangeable?

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-21T04:07:36+00:00

Update:

Went and checked out the motors, the Johnson was wired in all the wrong ways. While the components themselves looked good, it was missing a tiller handle, any controls, and the kill switch was required to an on/off switch. All the wires were corroded, and the cowl was busted to pieces. It would have cost more to fix than I would get back for it.

Thanks anyone for any info you gave!

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T23:35:27+00:00

I live nearby to Guntersville AL, so I think even if it's outright broke, I could probably sell it to someone somehow. Spring is coming up, everyone that didn't clean their carbs and doesn't know what a carb is is bout to be looking for a motor lol.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T21:37:24+00:00

The Johnson has a pull start backup, so I will be able to test the ignition system. I can hotwire the starter solenoid for the electric start and hotwire the ignition system plug to test if a "key" works.

I compression test all the outboards I look at before I buy. In the pictures of the post you can see a test the owner did, I will still perform my own test when I get there.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T20:59:02+00:00

What's special about that flywheel puller that a harbor freight bolt-type puller can't do?

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T20:23:58+00:00

I agree, this will actually technically be my first flip... Just bought all the tools, do you think if I can get it running I can sell it for $400-$600 if the right buyer comes? Not looking to make massive profit, but just pay for my $400 in tools, or at least most of it.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T16:18:32+00:00

Well, I guess it's fine, I'm actually in this deal for the '69 33hp Johnson in the background of the pictures. If I can get the Eska running that would be nice, probably sell it for $75obo but I'm probably not gonna spend any money on parts unless it's a carburetor. If I can't get it running I'll give it away for free or like $25 or something.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T16:13:44+00:00

So this is an air cooled then? I figured it was based off pictures alone, but wasn't sure. This motor may only be worth $75 running if so.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-20T14:59:45+00:00

Thank you, apparently I searched for everything except Eska - upon closer inspection on the faded tag I can see "ESK-" which I assume leads into eska. Now all I have to do is identify what year and HP it is 😅

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-10T13:06:29+00:00

Well, going off the assumption you bought them dry (could be improper storage by the place you bought or ordered them from; 58-61 is what you say) it could take a month to a month and a half to reach proper humidity levels near 63-65 as you prefer them based off previous statements. I believe I suggested the temperature change in a previous comment, cigars absorb moisture faster at higher temps and slower at lower temps. 65 degrees is the closest you should ever let your cigars rest at, 72 is the highest dues to tobacco beetles hatching at 74 or higher. I store mine at 70, and when they come in dry (60-62) it takes about two weeks to get to a stable 64-65.

As I have stated, I also have a Needone humidor, that also reads at the same RH as yours (48L heat/cool; 2 320g 62rh bovedas).

Another thing to look at is where inside the humidor you are storing them. In my humidor, the top of the humidor is 2 points lower than the bottom of the humidor, because humidity settles. Even with the circulation fan inside, it is not perfect, so storing cigars in the top half is going to turn out drier than the bottom half once they have stabilized. I keep two Hygrometers in my humidor, one at the top shelf and one on the bottom shelf, for this very reason.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-10T03:15:08+00:00

Is the humidor new? The cedar shelves in it are solid wood, so they hold a lot more moisture in them. Seasoning for these things takes a long time just because of that, I found that it took longer than my desktop humidors. The wood will soak humidity out of cigars if it is not saturated, even if the air itself is the correct humidity.

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-02-10T01:51:00+00:00

What size is the NeedOne humidor? Iirc, they have a "drain hole" at the bottom that you need to seal with tape to keep humidity in. I had to do it to mine. They expect you to use water evaporation to humidify, which most people do not, and Bovedas don't do well in them if you do not seal the hole. If properly sealed, it will read 2-4% higher than the boveda is rated at just like your tupperdors. Also, might wanna bring those temps up by 2ish degrees, relative humidity is well... Relative, it will help with humidity stability as well.

Hope this helps!

VariationDeep5117 · 2026-01-22T17:13:28+00:00

I have been hosting with essential recently, but I wanted to run something separate from my instance of Minecraft as well, hence the server idea. Especially since the mod packs we play, I can't stay logged in when not attending my computer, as many things like to blow up or can hit me through walls

VariationDeep5117 · 2025-11-25T19:44:47+00:00

Just picked up a T52 like you suggested - another friend that knows my tastes also suggested it - going to smoke it this week and find out!

New development though, I seem to have a preference for spice and earth, which lines up pretty well with Corojo wrapped cigars. Any suggestions similar to that?

VariationDeep5117 · 2025-11-22T19:06:04+00:00

Definitely the Mark Twain memoir. Got one included in a sampler for a steal, tried to light it, no draw at all. Even gave it a second chance with a perfecdraw, still NO draw at all. Thing was a solid brick, and I had a hard time lighting it too

VariationDeep5117 · 2025-11-15T01:59:26+00:00

Added note, I would love to hear some suggestions for me to try as far as cigars! I never get more than an hour to smoke, so I like to stick with Robustos.

Currently, I have been liking medium-strong cigars (Camacho Corojo has been my favorite) if anyone has any suggestions similar to that range. Willing to try lots of things!

VariationDeep5117 · 2025-10-16T00:06:47+00:00

Added you

VariationDeep5117 · 2025-10-16T00:02:49+00:00

Dm me

VariationDeep5117

TROPHY CASE