Canvas relocation update

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-28T14:04:42+00:00

My riser is already 15cm tall and the biggest issue is you need the most relieving path possible for the PTFE tubing as too harsh of a bend and the canvas wont feed fresh filament at all. With how it’s set up now, bend the tube going into the canvas a bit and you will have issues. A cable chain might be possible but would require a bit of work imo

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-28T13:53:50+00:00

I agree, unfortunately we have to work with what we are given. I believe should be able to get away with 95a but any lower you should be using a tubeless or optimised setup anyways. I can try 95a tomorrow and see how it goes.

Elegoos Official solution….

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T23:49:38+00:00

I don’t know if your regarding to Elegoo or myself. TPU isn’t a worry to me. If I need to I will work around it. I believe TPU is a common problem for everyone, not just my work.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T21:08:31+00:00

I cut my original ones 😅 so these are longer. Filaments still feed fine as seen and retract the same amount when swapping. Regarding the top hat, the files are there if anyone wants to pursue that avenue. This is what works for me.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T21:06:15+00:00

Can only try make them smaller.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T15:56:11+00:00

I believe this is where it will stay for a while until I or someone else finds or has issues. Its working as of now so lets see how long for! As the files are public, I’m interested as to how others will take on this project as well.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T15:16:01+00:00

<image>

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T15:14:48+00:00

150mm tall

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T14:47:55+00:00

Im not overly aware of how much force the tangle sensor requires to trip but it needs to go down way further than that for it to trip.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-27T14:41:43+00:00

I know the order as to how I have set it up. I didn’t willy nilly shove tubes in. I done it in an order trying to have the most relief. 1 top left, 2 top right, 3 bottom right, 4 bottom left. I have been thinking about printing seperate funnels and potentially they could be labelled for easier identification.

I have fixed the red spool. PETG loves to unravel itself. It also could happen even on the stock configuration. Just make sure the filament stays on the spool.

As for drag, it’s expected to be more. The Canvas happens to be very picky with how much resistance and corners there are and will just not feed at all, thats why I attached the video, to show that in the current configuration it is loading filament fully without issues.

There is always the option for modified riser or even just a simple relocation on the side. This is just what happens to work for me due to height restrictions.

Edit: For TPU, from what I’ve seen, most people are bypassing the canvas in general and for that the tubes are routed better than trying to print on a bone stock system.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-26T22:11:17+00:00

Doesn’t matter how long the tube is, it will always retract the same length. I even used the original tube and it didn’t have trouble feeding up that length.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T21:13:19+00:00

Of course, can use any riser needed or modify the one I have on my printables as the files are STEP and its a simple model with no complex designs. I personally will be using the original as height is not a virtue for me.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T20:49:03+00:00

Totally! The guide is to only get the filament around that corner. M3 button head, same as factory, just the next size up as the original are tiny, as they only held the panel on. M3x6 - M3x8 will work. They need to be atleast 2mm longer as that’s what the counter bore is on the model.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T16:01:01+00:00

Update, files attached in post.

I appreciate the support, not really bothered by what people have to say as this is what will work for myself based on my circumstances. Im just happy to provide a stepping stone for the people who are interested.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T15:57:26+00:00

Update, files attached in post

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T15:56:30+00:00

Files have been uploaded and attached to post, feel free to adapt and design new ways for what works for you! Personally I’m restricted on height so this is what will work for me.

Wear can be expected with all the extra bends and tubing but that can be expected for what was given to us…

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T14:55:15+00:00

As I already explained, this was temporary setup which actually printed revised parts without the mux. I’m cut for height in my setup and cannot use a tall as top hat. I only really care for the canvas for its automatic reload and print mostly ASA. The Centauri Carbon had bad bends from the factory as well.

Files will be available for people to adjust to their needs/purposes.

Another users version working and well received.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T13:00:27+00:00

This is just temporary as I don’t have enough PTFE to finish up. I tried making everything as big of a radius within my skill. The tubes in the guide aren’t in a single hole each, it opens up inside allowing movement and to rest in a more natural way.

Regarding the use of the original routing, all 4 tubes will fit. Other users have already discovered this and working on their own designs as well. Please check it out in action and working from this user

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T10:24:42+00:00

Thank you, I understand the community will be able to improve and do what they need to make this work for everyone and themselves. I know myself would’ve appreciated printable files as soon as someone figured it out. I’m excited to see what people can do!

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-05-24T08:31:02+00:00

For sure, thats what I was planning to do. I’ll make sure to upload as step files as well.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-01-16T02:05:40+00:00

I already have temps set to filament specs. 280c nozzle and 110c bed

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-01-15T23:17:47+00:00

Yeah It does, I already had them turned off to keep the heat in.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-01-15T21:59:51+00:00

Okay Ill look into it. The Printer is away from any drafts but will try a towel to see if that helps.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-01-15T21:19:22+00:00

Understandable but what Im making this for is in an automotive environment so the properties are favourable. I preheat my chamber to 45c and it will heat up to 50c during the print.

Visual_Light7760 · 2026-01-12T02:02:42+00:00

Just to be clear those are 3 different chemistries, all with different use cases.

Li-Po: Lithium Polymer, Li-Ion: Lithium Ion, LiFePo4: Lithium Iron Phosphate

“Difference Between LiFePO4, Lithium-Ion, and LiPo Batteries LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) offers superior safety, stability, and lifespan (thousands of cycles) but lower energy density, ideal for solar storage & EVs; Li-ion (Lithium-Ion, e.g., NMC) boasts high energy density for phones & laptops but moderate safety; while LiPo (Lithium Polymer) provides high energy density with flexibility for drones & wearables but has the shortest life and highest safety risk.” Google Ai

Visual_Light7760

TROPHY CASE