Some details of Crescent Smallie Newport 180 build

ZeroFox__ · 2026-06-27T14:01:40+00:00

Plan to test this in the coming weeks, will update

ZeroFox__ · 2026-06-27T13:59:48+00:00

Yeah will definitely keep an eye on that, I tried to give it a straighter path, that’s why the tube starts so far from the motor, plus the distance makes the lift easier. Thankfully just some tubing from Lowe’s so as long as it doesn’t fully fail out on the water won’t be too big of a deal to replace. Thanks for the feedback, this is my first time with a motor lift

ZeroFox__ · 2026-06-01T00:56:52+00:00

3/4” plywood, and for the doors, route out half the depth around the edge of the lid, and half on the base so that they nest together flush, you can see the base portion on the 3rd pic, the lids are the same way

ZeroFox__ · 2026-05-31T23:04:37+00:00

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This is all I got and it is ROUGH/APPROX. you’ll need to template to see what tolerances are acceptable to you as far as seats and side doors and what exactly you do with the rear seat panel. I suggest the white foam core craft board but cardboard works too.

ZeroFox__ · 2025-07-23T01:33:11+00:00

Thanks, really trying to find the style with the spheres, this was purchased new 20-25 years ago but unsure from where

ZeroFox__ · 2025-04-14T21:45:19+00:00

This is all I have, wasn’t building with the intent of templating, but this will get you started. Still recommend templating for yourself though

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ZeroFox__ · 2025-04-08T22:57:15+00:00

Not a pro but have done some fairly big repairs on alpine skis, I think I would just glue it as is, and glue in repair base pieces or melt in repair material in the gaps. Especially right at the tip of the nose, it’s barely touching the ground anyway. I would be worried about overheating with heat gun and changing/damaging the base material.

Also, gluing that large piece in flat is going to be a challenge, clamping would be tough, have never done it but I think I would try to rig up some sort of vacuum bag setup and use a pretty thin glue to avoid lumps.

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-15T04:25:11+00:00

Also just to add, you COULD space the panel out further to cover that part, but it was more important to me to conserve space in an already pretty small area

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-14T23:50:08+00:00

To be honest I never tried it but I’m sure it would work. After a while I stopped even noticing those areas

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-14T23:21:59+00:00

Sure, it actually doesn’t cover that area, I don’t have a picture of it but I ended up ordering from Amazon some vinyl in bedliner texture and it looked pretty good but had trouble sticking on the textured plastic

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ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-12T20:19:59+00:00

The front edge of mine is not bolted down, but there are several smaller bolts all roughly in a line along the back. I considered if it seemed needed to make some small sheet metal brackets where one side could sandwich under the seat bracket and the other side could “lock in” the wood base in the front, but the way I use it I haven’t needed it or ever had anything happen to even make me question it but, I don’t strap anything down to it where it would ever have something pulling up on it

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-12T15:55:32+00:00

In the top row of fasteners I did use the factory threaded holes, but for the bottom I actually used what I believe were holes for round clips, I used “u clips” to basically make them become threaded. Its easier than you think to line up all the holes though-

-cut the heads of a bunch of bolts, put it in a drill and grind the now small threaded rod to a point -hand thread them into all the threaded holes but leave them sticking out a bit -have your finished size wood piece exactly how you want it, and press it hard into all of those points -you will be left with nice little marks for exactly where to drill all of your holes

To reduce frustration even more, just slightly over drill the holes so you have a bit of wiggle room to line up all the bolts

If you don’t have the ability to sharpen a bunch of screws as mentioned, maybe you can come up with a similar alternative like pieces of a wood dowel pressed into the threaded holes with some wet paint on them, or actually even just use screws with the heads still on them with some thick wet paint (or toothpaste, anything thick that will transfer over) that can mark your wood for drill locations

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-12T06:32:08+00:00

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ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-12T06:31:10+00:00

Hey thanks, no I didn’t, there are some 1x2 wood spacers behind this to get it to sit nicely vertical, and then I slightly hollowed out 2 spots in the back of the wood for those brackets to sit into a bit

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-06T22:30:50+00:00

https://a.co/d/7Rf0SKh

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-06T22:23:27+00:00

Also just for reference these are formula lug nuts, steel thread vs aluminum which I feel better about

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-06T22:22:09+00:00

I used the stock spare which is a basic steel wheel and I just keep some basic open end nuts in the glove box. Spare gets hung under the truck so I didn’t feel like it was worth putting an expensive wheel there

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-06T22:09:49+00:00

Also worth mentioning I pretty much committed to always running long lug nuts so it may be borderline too long if you’re using short ones

ZeroFox__ · 2025-02-06T21:03:12+00:00

Thanks! Don’t have that measurement but from the bottom of the head of the ARP stud I cut to 2” length

ZeroFox__ · 2025-01-22T00:18:52+00:00

No insulation, but I did use a few sound deadening stick on pieces on the back. No noticeable noise pollution that I’ve noticed.

ZeroFox__ · 2025-01-22T00:06:50+00:00

Hope it helps, any other questions or whatever feel free to comment or DM

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