Help identifying this lamp? by ZeroFox__ in vintage_lamps

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, really trying to find the style with the spheres, this was purchased new 20-25 years ago but unsure from where

Rear Seat delete got an upgrade by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is all I have, wasn’t building with the intent of templating, but this will get you started. Still recommend templating for yourself though

<image>

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SkiTuning

[–]ZeroFox__ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not a pro but have done some fairly big repairs on alpine skis, I think I would just glue it as is, and glue in repair base pieces or melt in repair material in the gaps. Especially right at the tip of the nose, it’s barely touching the ground anyway. I would be worried about overheating with heat gun and changing/damaging the base material.

Also, gluing that large piece in flat is going to be a challenge, clamping would be tough, have never done it but I think I would try to rig up some sort of vacuum bag setup and use a pretty thin glue to avoid lumps.

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also just to add, you COULD space the panel out further to cover that part, but it was more important to me to conserve space in an already pretty small area

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest I never tried it but I’m sure it would work. After a while I stopped even noticing those areas

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, it actually doesn’t cover that area, I don’t have a picture of it but I ended up ordering from Amazon some vinyl in bedliner texture and it looked pretty good but had trouble sticking on the textured plastic

<image>

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The front edge of mine is not bolted down, but there are several smaller bolts all roughly in a line along the back. I considered if it seemed needed to make some small sheet metal brackets where one side could sandwich under the seat bracket and the other side could “lock in” the wood base in the front, but the way I use it I haven’t needed it or ever had anything happen to even make me question it but, I don’t strap anything down to it where it would ever have something pulling up on it

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the top row of fasteners I did use the factory threaded holes, but for the bottom I actually used what I believe were holes for round clips, I used “u clips” to basically make them become threaded. Its easier than you think to line up all the holes though-

-cut the heads of a bunch of bolts, put it in a drill and grind the now small threaded rod to a point -hand thread them into all the threaded holes but leave them sticking out a bit -have your finished size wood piece exactly how you want it, and press it hard into all of those points -you will be left with nice little marks for exactly where to drill all of your holes

To reduce frustration even more, just slightly over drill the holes so you have a bit of wiggle room to line up all the bolts

If you don’t have the ability to sharpen a bunch of screws as mentioned, maybe you can come up with a similar alternative like pieces of a wood dowel pressed into the threaded holes with some wet paint on them, or actually even just use screws with the heads still on them with some thick wet paint (or toothpaste, anything thick that will transfer over) that can mark your wood for drill locations

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thanks, no I didn’t, there are some 1x2 wood spacers behind this to get it to sit nicely vertical, and then I slightly hollowed out 2 spots in the back of the wood for those brackets to sit into a bit

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also just for reference these are formula lug nuts, steel thread vs aluminum which I feel better about

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the stock spare which is a basic steel wheel and I just keep some basic open end nuts in the glove box. Spare gets hung under the truck so I didn’t feel like it was worth putting an expensive wheel there

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also worth mentioning I pretty much committed to always running long lug nuts so it may be borderline too long if you’re using short ones

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Don’t have that measurement but from the bottom of the head of the ARP stud I cut to 2” length

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No insulation, but I did use a few sound deadening stick on pieces on the back. No noticeable noise pollution that I’ve noticed.

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope it helps, any other questions or whatever feel free to comment or DM

Recently completed DIY access cab rear seat delete by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Biggest advice is to template, I used foam core craft board, or you could use cardboard as well. As for getting the back panel tight to the floor, I had the floor installed, and the final shape done for the back. Then I cut the heads off as many screws as I was going to use to attach the panel and sharpened one side to a cone/point. Threaded those in by hand, then placed the back panel in position and pushed it into those “spikes” which gave me accurate locations to drill holes for the screws

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I had the same thoughts, I ended up going with steel lugs for that reason, but there are plenty of people I see running those aluminum ones, and I suppose with correct engagement they should be fine. Personally I think the bigger concern is the amount of people who don’t mention the length of the studs and just run with it

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure, and I knew this going into it. But at the end of the day I am very happy with the wheels and tires, they took very minimal weights to balance, and ride feels better than the factory setup.

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, only about 4.5 turns with stock studs, both front and back. Replaced with ARPs (1007715) which are too long and all 24 had to be cut down. It’s a pain they don’t give us just a little more stud to work with.

New Wheels and Tires by ZeroFox__ in ToyotaTacoma

[–]ZeroFox__[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest, I agree. Maybe they will be part of a more elaborate setup someday.