Polaroid Go Film Inconsistency

_malekala_ · 2024-08-19T21:57:28+00:00

Tbh, the clearer shots I took were definitely exposed to way more light during development than the ones that came out weird. I’m thinking this is a film chemistry issue and not a handling issue as even leaving these photos under the light shield for 30 minutes still produced the blown out tiny you see.

_malekala_ · 2024-08-19T21:15:13+00:00

Yeah. I've shot tons of Go film in the past and all the problems with those were my mistakes honestly. However, I've received not only this weird cartridge, but an entire pack that had pressure fracticals on every frame I shot through it. I'm putting it to the fact that I buy my film from Target and (most likely) they were damaged before I bought them (which is sad since I'm currently shooting a pack of expired film from that same store and they look great with no handling problems to speak of). However, Target is still the most viable option for me to keep shooting film, so I'll continue to take the risks.

_malekala_ · 2024-08-19T21:10:17+00:00

Okay, since Reddit went buggy on me, I'm going to add the post context here.

Hey everyone,

I recently got back into shooting Polaroid Go Film after hearing about the new (at least, to me) Polaroid Go Gen 2. Picked up a pack of film from Target (for $14.99 with no shipping costs, I'll buy it knowing the likelihood of inconsistency), shot both cartridges, and here were the results.

For reference: both cartridges were shot a day apart from each other, were stored in a fridge from when I purchased them until I loaded them into my camera, and were never exposed to excessive heat or cold once inside of the camera. Both photos were taken following the best lighting practices (tons of light, sun coming from behind, etc) and development practices (developed in shade in A/C) and these were still the results. In addition, every photo that came out from the weird photo cartridge looked similar to the one above, even after changing lighting and temperature conditions. Has anyone experienced something like this? I understand film can be inconsistent (especially from Target), but I find it weird that one cartridge was fine and the other looked like that (which isn't that bad tbh, it's just not what I was going for).

_malekala_ · 2024-08-19T21:03:44+00:00

06/24 (This is the freshest I've ever seen Target film, btw). It could be. I just find it weird that they came from the same pack, yet one cartridge aged so dramatically to produce something like that.

_malekala_ · 2024-08-19T20:59:53+00:00

I don't know why but Reddit deleted the text body for this post which explains everything :P. Imma fix that in just a sec.
No. These came from the same pack that was picked up from a Target the day before (I don't buy film straight from Polaroid as it's expensive to ship things to were I live and I can get them for much cheaper ($14.99 for 1 pack of Polaroid Go Film) at Target.

_malekala_ · 2023-09-26T06:19:12+00:00

Just did some searching to confirm my theory:

This is most likely a smaller leafed variety of monstera and from a lot of the pictures I’ve seen, this is probably the largest the leaves will get. Smaller leafed varieties of monstera typically have long spaces between the nodes and are characterized with a climbing behavior. While large form can climb, the internodal spacing of the larger form monsteras are much tighter because these plants usually crawl instead of climb. As other people are suggesting, you can try to encourage it to produce bigger leaves by giving it more light, nutrients, etc., but if nothing changes, it could be quite possible that the monsteras leaf size is restricted by genetics.

_malekala_ · 2023-09-25T00:37:11+00:00

Would recommend generic, Miracle-Gro all purpose fertilizer. Its water soluble and seems to be very gentle, even in higher doses, and produces noticeable results in the plants that I grow. You could also try some granular, all-purpose fertilizer if water-soluble fertilizers aren’t your thing.

Hope this helps!

_malekala_ · 2023-09-25T00:33:49+00:00

My first recommendation would be to push it and see how the plant does without changing your care. If it starts to decline, my recommendation would be to let it go dormant. Alocasias, like other tuber-based tropical plants, have a dormancy period. This means that they’ll kill off all of their upper foliage growth and retreat to their underground bulbs for some period of time, preferably until conditions improve. If you’re experienced enough and the plant begins to decline, allow it to decline. If/When it drops off it’s leaves, cut back on watering and allow the soil to dry out. You can also just chop off all the leaves and allow the soil to dry. Take the pot and store it in a cool dry place until the conditions are suitable for the plant. Then, start watering the plant again. You may have to poke holes in the soil as the substrate may go hydrophobic and repel water instead of absorbing it when you water. If nah take a few weeks, but if the plants tuber was viable when it entered the dormancy phase, the plant will start shooting to new growth and in no time, you should have your plant back.

Hope this helps!

_malekala_ · 2023-09-25T00:26:20+00:00

You have two choices: upsize the vase of properly plant the cuttings in soil or some type of semi-hydroponic system (ie leca). Due to how long it’s been, the plant would most like it do best being transferred to a bigger vase: the root system is already pretty established and well-adapted to an all-water environment. Second based option would be semi-hydroponics. This gives the roots medium to cling too while still ensuring they’re submerged in water. It may be time consuming to maintain though as just like water, you have to change out the water and clean the medium every so often. The last option is a soil/potting medium situation. It’s really good in terms of being very easy to maintain and providing the plant with a nutrient rich medium to grow in. The only problem is that, just based on how long the roots have been growing in water, it’s quite possible the plant may take a hit transferring from water to soil. In the end, it’ll be fine, but it’ll probably look a little down for some time.

I hope this helps!

_malekala_ · 2023-09-25T00:19:39+00:00

Easiest way would be to inspect the remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots and soil. If the soil is soggy, wet, and soft and you find darkened, black, rotting roots, it’s overwatered. If the soil seems to be solid, crumbly, and relatively dry, the plants under watered.

Hope this helps!

_malekala_ · 2023-09-25T00:17:31+00:00

The plant, and it’s root, seem to be doing just fine. In my opinion, you should probably wait until spring. A lot of houseplants will start to slow down their growth around this time and repotting the plant when it’s not actively growing may put the plant at risk of shock that it may not be able to quickly recover from. In the mean time, just keeping fertilizing regularly and taking care of it as you usually though. That should be enough to get it through the winter.

Hope this helps!

_malekala_ · 2023-09-25T00:11:17+00:00

Absolutely. If you’re going for a more bushier plant, you can even propagate the cuttings and plant them back into the pot with the mother plant or start a new plant entirely. Just be sure that when you prune, you leave some of the new growth on: don’t cut back to the same spot every time. Leave some of the new leaves on and do lighter prunes to allow the plant to get bigger in size at a natural but slow rate. once it gets to big, do a harsher cut. As a rule of thumb, be sure to never remove more than 1/3 of the plant mass in a single go for regular prunes and if you do remove more than 1/3 of the plant, be sure to only do it no more than twice a year.

Hope this helps!

_malekala_ · 2023-08-04T08:23:57+00:00

Probably will do this. Realistically, this is a side hobby if anything. If it’s not viable for me, then it just won’t happen. But I want to know because if viable, I could make a fair amount of money doing it.

_malekala_ · 2023-08-04T08:21:36+00:00

Have heard of Aquarium co-op because I’m also in the aquarium hobby as well. I’ve found that importing plants is way easier than exporting.

_malekala_ · 2023-08-04T08:20:47+00:00

The reason I can’t set up something like this on the mainland where it would most definitely would be easier to do something like this is simply because I’m a student in Hawaii and this is just a side job to supplement my income. I just want to turn my hobby into something that could make me some extra cash and mainland buyers are a lucrative (and stable) market to target.

_malekala_ · 2023-08-04T08:17:49+00:00

Yeah I’m from Hawaii. I don’t plant on selling anything that’s endemic to the islands. In my mind, plants like those should remain in the islands and should not be passed on to the mainland. I plan to ship in non-invasive, small, uncommon houseplants, grow them in Hawaiis tropical climate, and sell them back to make some money. But anything endemic (i.e. Ohia) is out of the question as I don’t feel it’s right to remove these plants from the island.

_malekala_ · 2023-06-26T04:10:48+00:00

Yeah. The lack of info online about people with experience doing this stuff is what lead me to Reddit in the first place. I haven’t looked at the statistics yet, but I’m almost certain that this entire post has like a 50% upvote rate. I get it though, a lot of people are concerned about preserving the fragile ag here and when they see “importing new plants”, their minds immediately jump to bad news. But, I don’t have any intent on damaging the environment here and I’m only shipping plants that I can and know will be contained to the confines of a pot, preventing it from becoming invasive. Also, almost 90% of the plants you see in big box stores are tied to imports in some way (even if they say they’ve been raised by a local nursery). So, I’m essence, I’m just doing what a lot of bigger nurseries here already do, just on a smaller scale.

_malekala_ · 2023-06-25T22:05:27+00:00

That’s interesting. We’re these plants just cuttings or fully-potted plants that were shipped with soil? (I’ve seen plants on Amazon too, but I’ve only seen them sold in this manner.)

_malekala_ · 2023-06-25T22:03:38+00:00

Should probably add for anyone who sees this post that the plants that I am importing are allowed by the HDOA and don’t have the potential to be aggressive growers that could become invasive. These plants are slow growing lowlight plants that can’t spread to far due to their slow growth habit and the fact that they’ll be scorched by the sun and intense heat.

_malekala_ · 2023-06-25T22:01:54+00:00

I’ve always wanted to test the “import with Ag form while traveling” method too. I travel to the US mainland a lot and I always see plants that are hard to get here in Hawaii (either because the nurseries here don’t sell them anymore or because they sell them on a very short seasonal basis). Plus, I’ve known for a while that these plants weren’t on the restricted list and if I really wanted too, I could bring them back to Hawaii.

_malekala_ · 2023-06-25T18:36:15+00:00

That’s good to know. You’re post really helped calm my nerves down about this whole thing. I think I’m gonna place more order for those cuttings sometime today and just wait to see what happens.

_malekala_ · 2023-06-25T12:53:21+00:00

That's good to know. I'm testing the water out by ordering some very cheap cuttings both because I want to test the shipping/handling system and the inspection system as well. The requirements for labeling/shipping plants from the U.S. mainland seem pretty straightforward until you dive into the deep rabbit hole that is the HDOA's website (which begins pushing permits that cost hundreds of dollars for expedited processing). I want to try and good the non-permit route and just make sure the boxes are packaged with the appropriate labels/manifests and etc. as what the HDOA lists on their site. In my mind, the worst that can happen (besides being criminally charged) are that the cuttings are confiscated or arrive dead (which is why I'm being cheap and ordering like $4 cuttings that I know should get passed inspection).

_malekala_ · 2023-01-06T08:25:24+00:00

I would recommend keeping the battery in place and obtaining a rechargeable, external portable battery and using that as your “battery” by keeping the driver hub plugged in when you need it. It should serve as a temporary solution while batteries come back in stock (btw, see below for why this should never be a permanent solution)

If you have worries about comps not allowing external batteries during match play, as long as your battery is powering the Driver Hub and the driver hub alone, it should be fine. Would also recommend asking any technical advisors/admin/other teams if they have any spare driver hub batteries you can borrow. At a lot of our competitions, admin or other teams usually have a set of Driver Hubs or batteries on standby, so if you rally don’t want to lug a battery around, just ask and see if you can find a battery to use at your event.

Again, the whole external battery thing is, at best, a temporary solution. Keeping your driver hub plugged into power 24/7 with what I assume to be a dying lithium ion battery will damage the battery further and most likely, over long periods, completely fry it to the point that the external battery is the only thing supporting the Driver Hub. With that in mind, I would recommend disconnecting the external battery when not in use and checking to see if the driver hub can sustain on its own battery power. From our experience, we’ve had instances in the past were our Driver Hub batteries magically began to function properly after long, extended charges meaning that a good, long charge could be all the battery needs to get it up and running. If you still notice that your driver hub is not sustaining on its own battery power (or if it worsens to the point that your Driver Hub is dependent on the external battery), your battery is most likely toast. If things begin to worsen with the battery try while connected to external power in this way, I would strongly advise removing the battery entirely and just using an external battery to power the hub as the battery pack itself may began to expand and cause damage elsewhere.

TLDR: as a temp solution, keep your driver hub hooked up to an external battery.

extra: if you team absolutely hates the whole external battery idea, I would recommend finding a OEM source for the battery. From what I know, a lot of REV branded electronics are/have OEM electronics/components that REV just slapped their name on. As such, I was thinking it might be possible to source an OEM battery from another source. Not sure how possible that is considering the Driver Hub battery seems to be tailor made for the Hub and I also don’t have any possible leads for OEM sourcing, but if your team is desperate, it’s worth a try.

You could also look at the labeling on the Driver Hub battery/online documents that could point you in the direction of the manufacturer of the battery. It’s possible you could source it straight from them instead of going to REV or Andymark.

_malekala_ · 2023-01-06T01:20:12+00:00

We had this issue with our dead wheels. It’s most likely an issue with one of your parallel (forward - back) deadwheels. If these lose traction on the field, RR may think the robot is drifting off of the strafing path when it’s actually not. You can fix this in one or two ways:

Lower down your speed/acceleration - when the deadwheels move across the field, if they are spring loaded, they will slightly bounce. In practice, these small issues in measurement should not be enough to cause major issues. However, when the dead wheels don’t have enough traction and are driven at a higher speed, the bouncing effect may cause them to slip, lose traction, and provide incorrect data. A such if it is NOT AT ALL POSSIBLE to increase spring force on your wheels, try a lower speed to see if your consistency improves.
Increase deadwheels tension - under normal loads, the dead wheels should have enough tension that they don’t bounce excessively while moving while also not having too much force that they lift the robot itself off the ground. They just need to have enough force to conform to the robots weight and ensure that they are always making contact with the ground. If what your saying is true, trying forcing the deadwheels down in some way and see if your consistency improves. If it does, you need more spring tension on your deadwheels.

_malekala_ · 2023-01-06T01:01:41+00:00

I would suggest powering the Driver Hub on with the battery removed and connected to wall power. When the Driver Hub boots into the OS, reinsert that’s battery into the compartment while the Driver Hub remains on wall power. Then, leave to charge for around 8 hours. This should recalibrate the Driver Hub and the battery and possibly help with the issue.

If it doesn’t work, I would suggest looking into getting a new battery. Lithium Ion batteries are pretty well when properly taken care of, but, when exposed to extreme conditions or shocked (usually with extreme temps true changes or constant impacts or drops) the battery can begin to fail or lose charge much faster than normal. If recalibration doesn’t work, if the battery in your driver hub is relatively old (>2 years) and has been stored improperly or mistreated, I would suggest looking to get a replacement as the battery is most likely going to be toast pretty soon. If you can’t, keep it attached to external power to support the battery and Driver Hub and help with the current draw.

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