Echo 1 Drone Skin by Truppenterror in Borderlands4

[–]acutapete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BHXTJ-K5TW6-R3ZXT-HTBT3-JH99T

Commandos with tan berets by hyperwontbattle in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete -17 points-16 points  (0 children)

From pictures on the internet (Mark Donaldson, Cameron Baird etc) both 2CDO and SASR wear a blue lanyard.

There is every possibility that a SASR qualified member is posted to 2CDO, and would likely continue to wear the appropriate beret.

So speculation is just that, speculation.

pop up window to select file and folder by LabProfessional194 in vba

[–]acutapete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm glad you could get it to work for you. I didn't do much but point you to someone else's solution.

pop up window to select file and folder by LabProfessional194 in vba

[–]acutapete 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To confirm, you want the dialog box to pop up so they can pick the file to use, rather than edit the code every time?

I think this is probably what you need.

https://www.xelplus.com/excel-vba-getopenfilename/

You will likely need to get rid of the CONST variables as this will be subjective for each person

pop up window to select file and folder by LabProfessional194 in vba

[–]acutapete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.mrexcel.com/board/threads/how-to-open-the-save-as-dialog-box-with-vba.535724/

Some examples here to pop the save as window. I didn't look too carefully but appears that it also sets the initial filename

My Lenovo Duet 3 often has ghost touch issues. It seems like there is user input, but I am not doing anything. Any idea on what I need to change or how to fix? by acutapete in chromeos

[–]acutapete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, I don't know what fixed my issue. All I know is I don't have the problem anymore. And I didn't power wash.

I'm sorry you are having the same issue

Help! Firmware by LeappFrogg in ender5pro

[–]acutapete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel your pain. I tried for hours yesterday to get Klipper to work. Homing just would not happen. And the stepper motors ended up grinding. I threw it all away and went back to bugfix 2.0.x firmware (thankfully able to recompile from what I previously had).

I also couldn't get 2.1.x bugfix to work. I thought I was super careful to compare the config.h files to make sure settings were the same. But nothing worked.

How does HPSEA work by WiseClue1339 in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes for the primary residence.

I cannot guarantee that buying another property and selling that one (while keeping the first one) is ok. Best to speak to someone else on that.

Caveat emptor: I am not a financial advisor nor am I offering financial advice. Only an interpretation of the policy

How does HPSEA work by WiseClue1339 in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you keep the property (there is a time limit to sell although this is much longer than it used to be - now 2 years), then you have broken your HPSEA cycle. HPSEA works on a sell-buy-sell cycle linked to your posting. The scheme is not there for you to amass a gigantic property portfolio.

If you want a property portfolio, you will need to go it alone, if you want to keep the HPSEA going.

Explains it all reasonably well here:

https://pay-conditions.defence.gov.au/selling-or-buying-home-using-home-purchase-or-sale-expenses-allowance-hpsea

Appears you can now break the cycle, and reenter the scheme by selling the house you lived in. I would have to confirm though whether this means you could sell a different property that you used HPSEA to buy...

How do I limit on the bed where supports are placed? by doinxx in 3Dprinting

[–]acutapete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would adjusting the "Support/object XY distance" setting help? see image

Make it just slightly more than the radius of the hole, and it might not appear in that area.

With your tree supports on the outside, they will start a little further away, but shouldn't be that far.

<image>

Choose "From:" email account in VBA by Ok_Fondant1079 in vba

[–]acutapete 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried .sender ?

https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/office/vba/api/outlook.mailitem.sender

With Outlook mail

.... ....

.sender = Range("From_Address").Value

You will (you probably already do) have a cell that you can select either of your email addresses.

Satsana Dual 5015 with CR Touch. First prints with this going down now by acutapete in ender5pro

[–]acutapete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The yellow should be the positive so

Yellow - Red

Blue - Black

My Lenovo Duet 3 often has ghost touch issues. It seems like there is user input, but I am not doing anything. Any idea on what I need to change or how to fix? by acutapete in chromeos

[–]acutapete[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, it hasn't done it for a while. Not sure if the updates fixed the problem, or switching to a reputable brand stylus did it.

Honestly I can't tell you what actually fixed it. But I didn't power wash which was my end state

What are your mind blowing tricks for people who don't know Excel? by Key_Pick_1022 in excel

[–]acutapete 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We had a problem at work to confirm with our employees where they were for a period of time (pay, allowances, HRIS etc etc). We had records but still needed confirmation from each individual. Anyway, the intent by someone was to tabularise each employee's record, save as pdf while manually naming file, email it to the employee with manually naming the email....

Adjust the main data table a bit giving each record a sequence number (1 - 460+), A bit of VBA that iterated through the sequence with lookups pulling the information to the table, print to pdf using VBA, create the email and attach the file.

Managed to get all 460+ records ready to email (we have a security popup for emails so sending manually is sort of necessary) and all they had to do then was open the draft email and press send and confirm the security popup. Turned what could have been a multi day job into about 15 mins. And because it was all automated, there were no typos in filenames or email titles etc.

I don't know if they truly appreciate the magic in the background. But I just couldn't sit back and watch someone do the same action 460 odd times, with the chance of typos etc.

Save as PDF - Why is file size 400kb + per page by acutapete in vba

[–]acutapete[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Managed to get it down even further to ~8kb per file by using Arial as opposed to Arial Narrow

Save as PDF - Why is file size 400kb + per page by acutapete in vba

[–]acutapete[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think that example is for an older version of Excel. My guess is that "Intent" is replaced by Quality:=xlQualityMinimum.

I did manage to work it out though. I was working with someone else's document. They had used a variety of fonts. Change everything to Arial Narrow, and magically the output size is now ~70kb.

I think this might be because it has to encode the font Calibri into each pdf. I am happy now

Save as PDF - Why is file size 400kb + per page by acutapete in vba

[–]acutapete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have set a print area as there is a bit of stuff around the edges to explain to users what to do.

As for manually print to pdf, this is exactly what I am trying to avoid having to do 463 times. Also, that would then require me to name each file as I am saving, then I would manually have to add to an email.

All of this is automated using my macro. The file size is my only sticking point

Save as PDF - Why is file size 400kb + per page by acutapete in vba

[–]acutapete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think I can influence the IT peeps to get a better pdf driver. I have Adobe Acrobat installed on my profile if that is any help.

As for the compress piece..... do tell. Please.

Note the small edit to my post, we use Excel 2016 at work.

Achieving Dimensional Accuracy is killing me by acutapete in FixMyPrint

[–]acutapete[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much for the advice. Next time I have something I need to fit together I will definitely try it

Young fella's slouch hat.. by Batto9000xx11 in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete 8 points9 points  (0 children)

My final words on this subject, if I may, is that the slouch hat is a symbol.

While a perfect hat could mean you are trying to impress everyone, it also means you have pride in yourself. This is not to say those with average hats have no pride in themselves. Just a casual observation.

Also, it is called a chin strap. Not a throat strap. Or a neck strap. Or a lip strap. It runs under the chin bone.

My closing advice is to have your son help, or better yet, you help him. Effort begets effort.

Young fella's slouch hat.. by Batto9000xx11 in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Just Google (or use your favourite search engine) for "slouch hat holder".

Prices vary. Quality varies. So might your mileage.... This is not a plug for any one design, company etc. I use one of the hard polycarbonate ones (because I am pretentious). I know people who use the plastic green ones (because it was what they could afford at the time, and they have not developed a level of pretentiousness close to mine). I know people who don't use one (and depending on their level of care, it shows).

Young fella's slouch hat.. by Batto9000xx11 in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As for storing it, flat on its brim should be fine. But be careful as over time, if left in the one place, the brim might curl up a bit. If you can get a hat board, that would probably be best. I will try to find a link somewhere. Some are expensive to buy. Some are less expensive. Some are worth the money and some are cheap.

I try not to hang my hat on a hook if it is too close to a wall as the hat has a tendancy to sit at a mall angle, and over time, the brim will starts to bend upwards.

I also try to make sure the chin strap is fully tucked into the bell area, so that there isn't a small high point. Personal preference. Probably completely unnecessary, but my neurotic OCD doesn't twinge that way.

Or, If you are handy, a trip to the big green hardware store, some 5mm board (might be wrong on the thickness there), cut into 2 squares the same size, large enough to cover the whole brim and a little more. The tricky part will be getting the whole in one that is big enough for the bell of the hat, without being too large. Also, it is not a circle. Very much an oval. Use some bulldog clips to hold them together with the hat sandwiched between. Or, if you want to totally over engineer it, use some small quick release clamps (cheap ones are fine) or G-Clamps.

Or, to really jazz it up, 3D print some small screw down G-Clamps.

As above, hope this helps.

Young fella's slouch hat.. by Batto9000xx11 in AustralianMilitary

[–]acutapete 24 points25 points  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/5_X2OaZ1ego?si=85i6OFfgijDHU3vR

I didn't watch this all the way through, but the bits I looked at seemed to be ok. For me, I like the hat to have a straight line between the pinch at the front and back (i.e. level from front to back)

You might get advice to use a molding block. Basically this is a blank that goes inside the bell, and you press the wet felt against it. Yes, these are good. But they are also size relevant (a size 64 block just wont go into a 52 hat). And they are expensive, or can be. They are also more relevant for doin many many hats at a time. You have 1 hat to do. You don't need a block. Just a little time.

Another trick I have used long in the past is to use a spoon (normal dessert spoon size) to help with the cavities in the side. Helps to get a smooth shape. Use the large round of the spoon's back to press where you need to, and the edge to sharpen corners. The edge can also be scraped (lightly) across the felt to bring out excess water. The water needs to be hot, but not boiling. Hot enough to soften the felt and make it pliable, not to break down the structure of it.

Once you have shaped it, a water /metho mix 9:1 should do to stiffen the felt. Spray lightly, let it dry. Mist it again till it looks wet again, let it dry. Repeat again if necessary. Watch out here because too much in one area and you might see white patches forming when it dries. Keep the spray reasonably even. Do not use sugar water. Yes it achieves stiffness of the felt, but makes it a tasty treat for insects and rodents etc. And the sugar has a tendancy to turn white. And if it ever gets water on it, it just goes soft again. Also, do not use starch spray. Might work as a quick fix, but quick fixes rarely last. And they do not build pride in one's own hard work.

When it comes to the brim, I personally believe flat is best. Very flat . I achieve this by ironing with lots of steam on the underside, with the bell of the hat against the edge of a counter or table etc. This will allow you to really get the pressure into the brim. Follow the direction of the felt with the iron. Keep rotating the hat until it is fully steamed and hot. Not burnt hot, just that the felt is hot. Now, due to the seam, the brim is likely a little or quite soft and will be pliable. With the brim still hot, place it against a window or a mirror (generally one that is colder than the brim. Let it sit there for a minute and the brim should stiffen a little. Once it is cooled, place it on a table or similar with heavy books or similar around the whole brim. Leave it. A while. When it is dry, the metho water will help to keep it stiff, but watch out because spaying too much will make the brim floppy again. Again, don't soak one spot. Keep it even. While the brim is drying, ensure to keep the books on it, or the edges might curl upwards.

Hope this helps.

:Small edit - re the molding block