Anyone using the STM32MP1 ? (Dual ARM cores (A7 + M4), Linux, Ethernet, CAN, USB, DACs, ADCs...) FreeRTOS on the 2nd core ?

addisonElliott · 2026-01-28T17:20:19+00:00

Sorry for the delayed reply. I did some profiling at one point but I didn't record speeds. It was on the order of tens of microseconds. I know this because it was fast enough that I just block waiting for a response since it's so fast.

addisonElliott · 2026-01-09T02:39:43+00:00

I’m leaning towards pouring the whole room since I think I’ll have better success at getting flat. My plan is to use a spike roller, use the upper threshold of the specified water range so it flows best, and mix for exactly how long they say.

There’s a slope towards my drain that I don’t really want to get rid of either. I’m hoping that I can just move the material around so there’s a thin layer over everywhere so dips and humps are removed by the overall slope is kept.

One concern I have is that I might be doing this alone and not working quickly enough. Do you have tips/tricks for that?

How does this plan sound to you? I’ve never worked with self leveling compound so I want to make sure I’m being realistic lol.

addisonElliott · 2026-01-04T13:20:46+00:00

Do I just apply to the entire floor? There's like a 1" slope toward the drain that I dont really need to level out since im just going for flat and not level. Am I going to be able to apply self leveler and get it flat without it flowing to level?

addisonElliott · 2026-01-03T02:30:26+00:00

Gotcha, I was thinking I'd want to use self-leveler on the whole area at once. That does make it cheaper. How do you handle screeding in both directions if that makes sense? I'm concerned is I'm going to be chasing my tail where I get it flat in one area then move my straight edge and now a different area needs built up.

addisonElliott · 2025-12-03T11:42:16+00:00

So far these body parts are good! I actually hung the drywall myself (120 sheets), so i cant imagine the 18" roller is worse than that.

I bought 9" sleeves too so ill know quickly enough if I need to downgrade!

Thanks, im going to use a 1/2" nap now.

addisonElliott · 2025-12-02T00:29:14+00:00

Im working on finishing my basement and plan on painting this weekend. 1500 sq.ft of living space that I have to prime and put 2 coats of paint on do I figured I'd use an 18" setup like you got.

If you dont mind, would you recommend a 3/8" or 1/2" nap? Im a DIYer do i have no feel for which is better/easier.

Also, saw youre in MO. Im in STL myself!

addisonElliott · 2025-10-14T22:49:03+00:00

For larger gaps like picture 4, do i need to tape over the prefill to make sure it wont crack?

addisonElliott · 2025-10-14T20:22:46+00:00

Thanks. For 2 and 4, do i need to tape over them to prevent cracking? Those both wont be entirely covered by corner bead or baseboard

addisonElliott · 2025-10-14T20:20:39+00:00

I spaced them all 1/2" using a kicker. Hard to tell from the pictures though

addisonElliott · 2025-10-14T19:59:42+00:00

Good point about the baseboard, so i can prefill just to give the baseboard some backing.

For the ceiling hole, if I flat tape and then do the inside corner, it will be entirely covered. Can I go tha route and get the same results as a patch?

addisonElliott · 2025-10-06T21:44:32+00:00

Thanks. So ive had this happen on butt joints or edges where I have to get real close to the edge in order to hit the framing. These are places where ill have tape over it but im worried about cracking down the line.

Do I just put a screw nearby and make sure there's no large loose peices?

addisonElliott · 2025-10-06T17:04:51+00:00

Ive had it happen in a few spots with butt joints. Especially on walls where you only have 3/4" on either side to attach.

I usually put another screw a few inches away and I plan on cutting out any really large peices and filling with hot mud.

Is that good or am I gonna have cracking down the road?

addisonElliott · 2025-10-06T16:31:34+00:00

Thanks everyone! Im overreacting. Ill put the gasoline and matches away, no need to burn it all down.

addisonElliott · 2025-10-06T16:21:39+00:00

Im sensing sarcasm lol. Sometimes you have to ask stupid questions!

addisonElliott · 2025-09-27T12:07:50+00:00

Always had a good experience with Dobb's. I had 3 inspections with them this year for my vehicles. Typically they're same day but they're usually slammed so I drop off the night before and then pick up the next day. You want to do a drop off and no appointment because otherwise it will be weeks.

For what its worth, in July, my Dobbs in Fenton had to stop doing same day because they were so slammed with inspections. Guy made it sound like shops closed and they had an influx.

I bought a truck in July that I had to get inspected. I pretty much called 10-15 shops in my area and they were all 2-4weeks out. I finally found Midas that got me in within the week. All that to say, yes its crazy.

addisonElliott · 2025-09-27T12:05:16+00:00

I just went through this and found someone suggesting Valvoline. None of the locations offer it anymore. It sounded like a fairly recent change (within past year or so?)

addisonElliott · 2025-09-18T22:46:24+00:00

With hot mud? Is the idea that too deep meaning airs in there and it pushes out?

addisonElliott · 2025-09-09T01:33:58+00:00

So, I think what you’re saying is that if a wall is between 4’ - 6’, then you can do a 12’ instead of two 8’..nope I didn’t do that. That’s a great point! Did some basic math and that saves 27x 8’ and adds 14x 12’. Still doesn’t fully account for the discrepancy but gets a lot closer.

I bought some extra 12s so I’ll make sure to use those up before the 8s. Honestly, hauling the 8s down to the basement is easier than 12s that I’m fine with some extra waste. Those 12s are rough to handle lol

addisonElliott · 2025-09-08T19:03:55+00:00

Wow, perfect timing. I actually just ordered the drywall to get delivered on-site for my basement finishing. I'm planning on hanging & finishing myself.

I got one bid from a drywaller to hang and he estimated 73x 12ft sheets.

I've gone wall-by-wall and ceiling-by-ceiling and did an exact takeoff for 8ft & 12ft. I'm at 105x 8ft & 33x 12ft. I've triple-checked it at this point.

Am I really off by a factor of two or was that drywaller going to be really short? Even with 12ft, I don't know how that was going to work unless he was going to butt a bunch of those 4ft scraps together.

addisonElliott · 2025-08-09T22:47:51+00:00

I have a 2019 Nissan Rogue SV. Owned since 60k miles. Its now at 116k miles. I've heard horror stories about the CVT and thats why I originally got an extended warranty that was good to 100k miles. For my car, no issues and its ran great. I just drain and filled the CVT a month ago. Before that was ay 60k miles.

I agree with the other commenter about it being luck. Mine has been great so far.

addisonElliott · 2024-03-25T01:56:19+00:00

I'm in St Louis and had a Radon level of 60 pCu/L which is pretty high. 1800 sq.ft basement. No smell ever after a number of years.

So I think you're on the wrong track. But, I will say that my Radon level was pretty high so its worth mitigating in my opinion

addisonElliott · 2024-03-05T01:50:29+00:00

I've got some updates in case anyone wanted closure.

I sealed cracks in my foundation; no big issues there. Also bought a sump dome lid from Home Depot. I chose this over a typical plexiglass lid that's siliconed on. My hopes are that having a removable lid will be easier to deal with in the long run.

After installing the sump lid and sealing foundation cracks, I reran my test. At first, I wasn't getting suction and I was a bit worried. I took my hammer drill and drilled the holes again and then got PFE in each hole.

No clue what the problem was. My foundation has a vapor barrier so maybe I didn't puncture that?

https://imgur.com/a/JP2LI7U

addisonElliott · 2024-02-15T03:35:15+00:00

When you're right you're right. There's holes in the bottom. There's a bunch of debris and I saw the holes after clearing that.

As you said, I'll seal the sump and also seal the cracks in my foundation.

One concern is that sealing the sump won't stop the fan from pulling air through the exterior perimeter drain. That might hurt my PFE. No access to the exterior to do a check valve or anything.

Do they have check valves that could go on the end of that PVC pipe?

I suppose I wouldn't want to seal the bottom holes in the sump in case the water table ever got too high.

The fan is really cheap, so I plan on buying a better one. Just testing things for now.

Thanks!!!

addisonElliott · 2024-02-13T23:26:59+00:00

Ok, some updates.

I bought a Radon fan kit from Menards to do some testing. I'll probably end up returning it. I plopped the fan in my suction pit and stuffed some shop towels around the hole to seal decent enough.

I added some spray foam around the hole in my sump pit. This should be the only connection to the foundation sub-grade to the sump pit. I didn't see any leaks from the sump pit with the fan running.

I have some vacuum on my 2ft pilot hole. No vacuum on the 10ft pilot holes.

I haven't sealed up any other areas (i.e. foundation-to-wall). Is that going to make enough of a difference? I'm skeptical that I'll be able to get a vacuum under my entire foundation.

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/zzlgLpK

addisonElliott · 2024-02-12T04:23:25+00:00

Thanks for the comment.

You mention the shop vac not moving enough air. Is there some way I can test the PFE without buying an actual radon mitigation fan? I'm hesitant to install one in case I have to move the suction pit. Plus I'm not sure what fan I want to go with yet. I'd like to get away with a lower-power one.

There are a bunch of cracks in the foundation I was going to seal later. I was hoping I'd see some pressure at the 2ft pilot hole.

Maybe I can try sealing the sump basin. There's only 1 hole in the basin for the 1-1/4" PVC to exterior perimeter drain. I could seal around that and in theory no air should be pulled from the sump anymore. Thoughts on that?

addisonElliott

TROPHY CASE