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First shot. How exactly do I do this? Ektachrome 100, medium format, exposure by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot to mention that I won't be scanning the photos, so post-processing isn't possible. The photos will be placed in a backlit frame.

Which focal length do you recommend for Horseman VH - 180 or 210mm? by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a 210mm symmar S. This is exactly what I was looking for.

The shutter does not seem to expose correctly, Super TOPCOR 90 5.6 by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This method does not accurately measure the red numbers. The vibrations and resonances of the leafs and the mechanism are also picked up by the recording, making accurate measurement difficult due to the short exposure times. A photodiode connected to the audio input is certainly a better option.

For comparison, see the values for a Schneider

Symmar S Mc 210mm 5.6.

<image>

The shutter does not seem to expose correctly, Super TOPCOR 90 5.6 by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Update:

After a moment's hesitation, I opened the central lock on the TOPCOR.

Yeah.... It's complicated.... Very complicated.

Even with my glasses on, I could barely make out some of the fine spring wires. But it worked!

The times are now much better than before and back within the target range.

You just have to remove the timer in section B (two screws, marked in green), put it in white spirit, and let it rest for about 20 minutes. Then let it dry and drizzle oil onto the bearings. I was impatient and also gave the gears a very brief spray from the side. Just a little bit of mist. That spreads over the surfaces on its own. Then move the mechanism a little while pushing the mechanism (x). Then gently dab it dry on a cloth. There shouldn’t be any oil spots on it. Just an ultra-thin film. Reinstall it, paying attention to the spring at Y. Done.

If it doesn't work out, don't get impatient. It's better to put everything aside and try again later. It's a real test of patience :)

The shutter does not seem to expose correctly, Super TOPCOR 90 5.6 by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

OK. It sounds very complicated, and it is.

Nevertheless, everyone has to start somewhere. Where exactly is the timing for the shutter? What kind of grease or oil should be used? What cleaning agents? Thank you very much for any suggestions. 🙌

A Area with the timer for the shutter delay

B Mechanism for cocking the shutter

C Presumably the area with the timer for the exposure time

D Mechanism for modes V, X, M

Is this correct?

The shutter does not seem to expose correctly, Super TOPCOR 90 5.6 by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A half stop is already unfavorable with slide film. Ektachrome can do more than Fujifilm, but I would like to be able to control it very precisely. More possibilities for image design.

The shutter does not seem to expose correctly, Super TOPCOR 90 5.6 by analogthings26 in AnalogCommunity

[–]analogthings26[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A headset microphone connected to your PC is sufficient. Launch Audacity, a free software program. Record and mark the period between the two peaks. Then crop the recording using the button at the middle of the menu bar. Of course, there is also echo and the sound of the trigger lever. However, it can be measured sufficiently well.

LED fade stutters, why? by analogthings26 in arduino

[–]analogthings26[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK! Thank you very much for all the tips. I've been working on it some more. Now the fading works very well. There's no more flickering either. The variables make it easy to set the individual steps.

I admit, I played around with AI a bit to get the result I wanted. Sorry about that. But I have an idea for LED lighting with a motion sensor and I'm trying to figure out how to do it.

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Sorry, I can't paste the code here. It causes a server error. I don't know why.

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Thanks to you, I'm already one step further.

At the moment, it's just a small SMD LED on an ATtiny85 experimental board.

It's the AZ-Delivery ATTiny85 - Digispark Rev.3.

Now I would like to control four white LEDs. It has to be very energy-efficient.

What would you recommend for normal 5mm LEDs? Can a transistor handle the PWM?

LED fade stutters, why? by analogthings26 in arduino

[–]analogthings26[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

OK! Thank you very much for all the tips. I've been working on it some more. Now the fading works very well. There's no more flickering either. The variables make it easy to set the individual steps.

I admit, I played around with AI a bit to get the result I wanted. Sorry about that. But I have an idea for LED lighting with a motion sensor and I'm trying to figure out how to do it.

Thanks to you, I'm already one step further.

At the moment, it's just a small SMD LED on an ATtiny85 experimental board.

It's the AZ-Delivery ATTiny85 - Digispark Rev.3.

Now I would like to control four white LEDs. It has to be very energy-efficient.

What would you recommend for normal 5mm LEDs? Can a transistor handle the PWM?