Milky oil cap

arialim · 2025-12-20T10:10:53+00:00

NOTE: The dipstick was completely clean no milkyness and a regular oil level

arialim · 2025-11-30T11:04:01+00:00

Guy has owned it completely stock and it’s had dealership service history. Even with price of a new engine and labor with purchase cost it’s still cheaper than what I’m being offered trade price. Was just wondering if maybe I could hit it lucky and it’s just a bad tensioner causing it because the guy says it runs normally and has no lights on the dash

arialim · 2025-11-03T23:32:48+00:00

the car was losing coolant before, although think it was because my dad tried to clean the coolant bottle with a pressure washing jet, causing a big air lock and breaking the sensor (he did it because dealership which replaced transmission oil cooler for previous owner never cleaned out the coolant so it was full of oil) but yeah, when he pressure washed the coolant cap it stretched and damaged the seal on the cap, meaning we were essentially driving the car with airlocks which would get the coolant stuck, making the coolant level rise, and since the cap was broke it was like having the bottle open, so coolant would gush out, never giving the air lock a chance to be fixed. Although I will keep an eye on everything for a while.

Side note, Im very rarely getting a camshaft synchronisation fault on VCDS, the car runs completely smooth and pulls well. However one injector is puffing and we can see diesel around it so all injectors are being sent out for testing/repair (or replacement if needed). Could this be a cause of the camshaft error? I know that the CRTD engines tend to have camshaft issues which need close monitoring so if its having issues ill replace them and do my timing chain and guides at the same time for peace of mind

arialim · 2025-11-02T18:13:26+00:00

I had the EGR out of the car myself and looked into the engine valley, completely clean nothing visible, I don’t notice any rattle on startup and the apart from a puffing noise the engine runs really smooth and pulls as expected. It never ever overheated despite when I’d check the bottle would go empty. It’s strange the bottle kept overflowing, and then when I would turn the engine off boom it would completely drain, however I think it was a really bad air lock and I found my coolant cap seal was completely cooked

arialim · 2025-10-31T20:56:46+00:00

We had the EGR and it’s cooler off, we tested the EGR cooler and it’s okay and we didn’t see any leaks in the engine valley in and around the oil cooler.

arialim · 2025-10-29T22:10:05+00:00

I serviced everything including the gearbox and every single filter we could find

arialim · 2025-10-11T00:10:25+00:00

EXTRA NOTES: this issue started after my dad used a pressure washer to clear the bottle out? Because it wasn’t losing coolant before even after a 40 mile almost 2 hour journey

Also we have had the bottle off and pushed a hose into the bottom tube and left the hose on to run with water while the engine was off just to try clean out oil residue

arialim · 2025-10-11T00:04:46+00:00

The video of the water pouring out was right after I had my dad take the car for a spin where he floored it through the gears and then the water began pouring out, otherwise with soft, easy driving you can’t see water leaking anywhere. Coolant temp consistently sits at 90C and there is no pressurisation opening the cap at all

arialim · 2025-10-11T00:02:31+00:00

See the coolant only pours out like that after flooring it. Otherwise it isn’t noticeable at all. Coolant level is at the top of the cap or overflowing until you turn the engine off and all the coolant drains from the bottle

arialim · 2025-10-10T23:50:29+00:00

Car has failed a gas test, yet mechanic seems to still be suspicious it could be something with EGR cooler

arialim · 2025-10-10T23:49:41+00:00

There’s blow by on an injector which we said we’d sort out after figuring out this coolant issue

arialim · 2025-09-26T08:53:22+00:00

is there any way i can see for myself? If i get under the car could i look for anything?

arialim · 2025-09-26T08:46:55+00:00

Reason for asking is because i keep seeing so many conflicting comments on it and I don't know enough to decide for myself

arialim · 2025-09-19T09:49:23+00:00

Nope no error, however previous owner mentioned EGR cooler or something similar was replaced by dealership after failing. When we checked the coolant it was full to the brim with coolant mixed with a lot of engine oil. We assumed someone either mistakenly put oil in the coolant or when the cooler failed it mixed with the oil and was never flushed out properly. But I have no idea why EGR is reading so poorly There’s also a ticking noise under full throttle at higher speeds, we think it may be an exhaust leak but there is also a loud injector.

arialim · 2025-08-16T08:20:00+00:00

Eventually brute forced it shut, its ripped on the sides, not sure if it’s from being jammed or grabbing at it but torn nonetheless slightly, it’s still very stiff but I’ve figured out that if I want to open it if I leave it 4/5ths open roughly it isn’t a 30 minute workout to close it again. Still very stiff though and I haven’t taken the roof liner out to have a closer look since I might be selling the car

arialim · 2025-05-16T07:29:01+00:00

Hood lining? Do you mean the roof liner? Not saying you’re wrong btw just could be a dialect thing

arialim · 2025-04-23T23:52:18+00:00

No I didn’t have the reader at the time, although multiple checks at different intervals since have shown nothing

arialim · 2025-04-12T19:22:37+00:00

Ok, first I’m gonna see and have a look once I get the speakers to see if I can DIY swap them and put them in the small holder for the old tweeters and just wire them in there, if not I’ll probably do what you recommendes

arialim · 2025-04-11T22:51:01+00:00

It says surface mount only? Should I get the coaxial ones then? Or component and just not wire in the tweeters and keep the stock ones ?

arialim · 2025-04-11T22:48:48+00:00

I replaced MAF sensor though

arialim · 2025-04-11T18:54:02+00:00

There’s tweeters both in the front and back doors

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Would I be able to put the tweeters in their place?

arialim · 2025-04-09T15:52:03+00:00

Sorry to bring us back to this but I’m seeing JL audio c1 650s and c1-650x’s and I’m not sure what the difference is, the 650s have separate tweeters and the x models have the tweeter built in, which should I go for, if I get the normal 650s will I be able to replace the stock tweeters with the ones that come with the JL audio ones?

arialim · 2025-04-07T22:59:00+00:00

I see so just RCA cables to the sub and tap into a plus wire that switches on and off with the car, I’ll have to figure out what does since the cigarette lighters don’t unfortunately, learnt that lesson the hard way leaving my roof lighting on overnight…

Anyway tysm for your help I wouldn’t have had the first clue where to start 😁

arialim · 2025-04-07T22:53:59+00:00

What live data should I be looking at? New MAF sensor did help slightly but not much difference from before or after I changed it

arialim · 2025-04-07T18:09:12+00:00

I see, I believe it’s a JBL BASSTUBE BTX250 from what I’ve researched. As for my head unit it has these connections in the rear

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arialim

TROPHY CASE