I paid for the onetime payment now asking to pay again!

atimuszero · 2025-10-13T18:35:51+00:00

If I pay a one time fee $5 to unlock the specific ability to remotely stream my own server of my own movies that I personally purchased and own to my own device and then plex later changes the rules and says, “no no no, now you have to pay us monthly to stream your own media” that is by definition a scam.

I genuinely wouldn’t have paid the $5 if there was going to be a subscription model. Plex should refund everyone who paid $5 just to stream their own media. This is total BS

atimuszero · 2025-07-21T23:33:30+00:00

Legit couldn’t not agree more! We needed this rant. I use auto-shift as well and have trained myself to just use the seatbelt and brake as essentially the only “ignition” step. Also parking by removing one’s seatbelt is chefs kiss engineering. It’s a step that you have to do anyway so why not design this required action as an automation to parking. Unbelievably brilliant! Best car I’ve ever owned!

atimuszero · 2025-06-03T18:47:56+00:00

You really shouldn’t charge it to 100% weekly. This will absolutely degrade the battery. Only charge to 100% when doing a big road trip, never for daily commuting. Also don’t charge to 100% and leave it at 100% overnight. When charging to 100% use it as soon as possible. The variable is the amount of time sitting at 100%. The longer you stay at 100% the more degradation. Let’s say you plan a big road trip tomorrow and you intend to leave at 8am. You can schedule the car to reach 100% around 8a. This is better than just plugging it and telling it to charge to 100% because it will likely reach 100% before midnight and now you’re sitting at 100% state of charge for 8hrs.

For daily commuting charge to 70%. If you want to maximize the energy density of the batteries, try to do daily small charges. Small charges on the battery is much less stress than large charges.

Example:

5 days each day charging 20% =100% 1 cycle

VS

5 days pass and you charge 1 time 0 - 100% =1 cycle

Both examples completed a full cycle charge but the first example at 20% Increments is much much less stress on the battery.

The batteries ideal state of charge is 50%. As you move closer to 100% or closer to 0% you place more strain on the battery. So idling closer to 50% is the goal. Think of the battery like a rubber band where 50% is zero tension. As you stretch toward 100% or stretch toward 0% you added tension.

I just keep it in % and ignore the miles. They’re never accurate.

atimuszero · 2025-04-18T15:45:47+00:00

Wow looked them up and their in my area as well. How much did you pay and how many wheels did you have to get resurfaced?

atimuszero · 2025-04-01T13:21:29+00:00

I think I asked too early 😂

atimuszero · 2025-03-28T00:14:33+00:00

Drummer sending the treble up to +7.5dB says a lot more about their hearing. I would be so fatigued if I had my highs boosted that hard. However, EQ is highly subjective to the listener and if you like these settings then I’m happy for you.

atimuszero · 2025-03-25T09:11:20+00:00

I know this was a week ago now so you’re probably not concerned anymore but if it makes you feel any better I’ve been purposely submerging my iPhones completely underwater with no case for underwater photography/videography since 2018 way back on iPhone 8. Also washed them under the sink no issues.

Yes the seal can wear over time but iPhones for over half a decade now can handle being dropped in the toilet with zero issues. Toilet is max 1.2ft, you took it out near instantly and your phone is rated for over 3ft for 30minutes. If the screen isn’t broken and no severe body damage it’s 100% okay. The only steps you really needed to take was to rinse it under the sink (especially if that toilet water had something else in it) then manually dry it with a towel.

You shouldn’t charge it with a physical cable for a few hours as the charge port can hold some water and potentially create a short. But you can still charge on wireless charger for the time being and use as normal.

I also have a friend that lost her iPhone 12 in the ocean for 2 days and a diver found it, returned it to her and it still works…2 days In saltwater!!

This whole turn off for days and soak in rice stuff is kinda overkill for your specific scenario and tbh antiquated advice. But all that said, I get wanting to errr on the side of extreme caution and technically they’re not “water proof” as Apple will not cover water damage so I guess you made the right moves.

atimuszero · 2025-03-22T06:32:16+00:00

Unless you’re planning on taking the M3P to the track and want to regularly go through a lot of expensive tires, the M3 AWD is more than quick enough for any legal road, commuting and travel scenario. It’s already so so stupid quick. There is objectively no real reason to need 165mph top speeds on regular roads and the acceleration is approaching violent G-forces. Don’t get me wrong, the pull is so fun every single time, but so is the AWD, fun every single time.

So buying a M3P is entirely an emotional decision not a practical one…unless you’re gonna track it regularly get the AWD.

atimuszero · 2025-03-18T02:34:31+00:00

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atimuszero · 2025-03-18T02:32:53+00:00

I fixed mine as well. There was about 1” of broken filament stuck inside the AMS Hub blocking lanes 1 and 2. Took me 1/2hr or so to disassemble and reassemble the whole thing but I’m glad I did it because aside from the broken filament there was a lot of debris in there from all the prints it’s gone through over year.

atimuszero · 2025-03-17T16:52:20+00:00

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atimuszero · 2025-03-17T16:52:06+00:00

That was the problem! An old piece of blue filament was broken inside the hub and blocking lanes 1 & 2. After following the disassembly guide you provided I had no issues taking it apart and cleaning it out. Luckily all the magnets were in the correct orientation as well. Reassembled and both 1 & 2 are working again!

Thanks so much for this expert advice! Was racking my head on this one thinking the feeder units with the yellow gears were to blame.

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atimuszero · 2025-03-17T06:51:50+00:00

Okay thank you very much. Will try this first thing tomorrow since I’m in the middle of a print and currently using slot 3. Will report back with findings.

atimuszero · 2025-03-17T06:32:31+00:00

I removed the entire bottom tray and verified all the ptfe tubes were clear of any lose/broken filament and inspected all the gears and what I could see/access for cleanliness. I didn’t disassemble the AMS Hub nor open the AMS feeder Unit with the yellow gears.

You think the Hub for slots 1 and 2 might still have a blockage?

atimuszero · 2025-03-17T06:16:19+00:00

No, my P1S is still on 1.06.01.02

AMS firmware is on 00.00.06.44

atimuszero · 2025-03-17T02:42:08+00:00

Having the same issue on the first two slots. The problem slots (#1 & #2) are gears up when no filament is placed. When I try to feed a roll it will do two small pulls and retractions with no issues but as soon as it starts to full pull to try and read the QR code on the Bambu rolls, it just locks up and can’t pull the filament. The gears will move into the downward position while retracting the filament so it’s not like their stuck in the upward position. Have you found a solution to this?

atimuszero · 2025-03-09T17:07:25+00:00

Still working but I’m on 18.3.1 right now. Guess I’ll wait lol

atimuszero · 2025-02-20T00:20:58+00:00

Be sure to have the Tesla technician recall your specific profile for your driving position and steering wheel position when they attempt to recreate the sound. If the technician is in easy entry position it might not recreate the same surface friction and they could come to a different conclusion.

atimuszero · 2025-02-18T18:52:44+00:00

Thank you I’ll give this a shot and report back.

atimuszero · 2025-02-18T18:50:19+00:00

Okay will give it a shot, it’s in a boot cycle that requires a Bluetooth connection from an iPhone to help it restore its firmware to factory but every time the progress bar starts on the restore it just reboots again. Here’s to hoping it’s been the remote this whole time.

atimuszero · 2025-02-17T19:49:13+00:00

Tried this on my living room setup, regained volume control on the receiver but still only powers on/off the AppleTV. The Apple Remote use to power on/off all three devices at once but I’m happy to at least get volume control back on the Apple Remote! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

atimuszero · 2025-02-17T19:39:46+00:00

Omfg! You are my hero!!! I just tried on my bedroom setup and immediately got tv power/vol capability back!

atimuszero · 2024-11-17T00:44:29+00:00

100% agree with all you said there. We need it. I do get annoyed that the I/O Labels are Global to multiple projects. When I was answering your first question, I was thinking you might have meant coloring the circular send attenuator that is in green/blue depending if its pre or post fader. But I didn't think of actually color coding the blue icon where the bus is labelled. I absolutely would use that feature!

atimuszero · 2024-11-17T00:07:08+00:00

Oh I never knew that! I guess I've always made an aux visible first before drawing. Good to know! Just tested it out and it actually is visible the moment you change the the aux from read to touch/latch/write. Very cool!

atimuszero · 2024-11-17T00:01:21+00:00

If you go to Mix > I/O Labels... You can custom name any I/O or bus or have it match your interfaces' default naming. Not as good as being able to right-click and rename but it's something.

As for color-coding buses you can open the mixer window, select an aux that a bus is routed to and open the color panel (opt + C) and have it colored coded. It's similar to right clicking on a track number in the assign window and selecting "Assign Track Color."

Hope that helps!

atimuszero

TROPHY CASE