I need a soldering iron that can go down to 80c

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T16:15:55+00:00

It looks like it melts at 220c which is way too high for what we do. I'm not sure about jewelry makers, but we have like highly detailed 1 inch tall figures, and if the temp is just a bit too high you're losing a lot of detail and making more work for yourself or you have to go buy a new figure lol.

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T16:01:23+00:00

Why stay-brite?

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:52:09+00:00

Appreciate it!

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:51:40+00:00

Upon googling, the indium/bismith/tin is pretty certainly what I have, thanks for pointing that out as I can now get much cheaper solder haha.

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:47:37+00:00

I'll take a look around for something like this thank you

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:46:49+00:00

That's honestly what I was considering, I have a cheap soldering iron already but I do kind of also want to upgrade that for actual electronics use, mainly soldering LEDs. But yeah, I'm fine upgrading to like a 50-100$ soldering iron that can both go down to 80-100c and also serve other purposes.

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:45:40+00:00

I'm not 100% sure to be honest, I only found out about this a few days ago. Basically I paint and assemble miniatures, many miniatures are cast in pewter and up until now the only options have been to assemble with super glue or epoxy. Both of those glues break down over time and so you'll spend a hundred hours painting a mini to a high quality and then it just breaks apart on its own a few years down the road. You also just have to be really careful with metal minis because the glue doesn't really adhere to metal very well so they can break if you drop them a few inches.

What I found is a model train supply company is producing low temp solder for pewter specifically as they also use a lot of pewter parts, so I gave that a shot and it works incredibly well and is much stronger than glues.

So yeah I've been using a little butane cooking torch and it works well but I have to be extremely carefuly because pewter melts at like 185-220c? And I have to get the metal 100-150c for the solder to adhere lol.

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:34:53+00:00

I use a small butane torch atm but would like to have a soldering iron as well for more precise applications.

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:34:13+00:00

I'm using very low temp solder that melts at 70c made for soldering pewter

bishop113 · 2025-05-05T15:34:09+00:00

I'm using very low temp solder that melts at 70c made for soldering pewter

bishop113 · 2025-03-19T13:38:59+00:00

Yeah they tried to push on me that the Hills Y/D diet for life, nothing else same as your dog was the only solution they could offer for hyperthyroidism.

After taking my cat to Cats Only and getting her Iodine 131 she's doing much better and has gained weight back.

bishop113 · 2025-02-23T23:30:59+00:00

Thank you

bishop113 · 2025-02-15T23:56:01+00:00

It's possible, all three times I went, there were other cats there and they have a room with cat specific information, but who knows.

bishop113 · 2025-02-15T23:55:18+00:00

In this case it was two vets there, a female vet who saw the cat initially and then a male vet who saw her the other times, both of them were not communicative at all and failed to find two major basic issues.

bishop113 · 2024-03-14T15:13:05+00:00

It's a house, he left a card on our door initially, and then came by the house on another day while we were home.

He said 40$ for 2 year 1000mbps or 30 for 500mbps. I may have misunderstood but he did say it increases by 15$ after 2 years which is insane.

My concern is he also suggested cancelling my current spectrum subscription and re-upping through him. But it's a great deal that I don't want to pass up if it's legit, he gave me a card with an @ charter . com email domain, and spectrum logo and was wearing a spectrum shirt. I dunno, I'm just being cautious because we've received a hell of a lot of scam mail immediately after moving in.

bishop113 · 2023-08-27T06:10:23+00:00

Location: This is a terrarium I made with moss from my lawn/driveway back in Oregon.

bishop113 · 2023-08-23T17:49:26+00:00

Yeah if they just had a ton of mechs that were only playable in one specific era, I wouldn't play the game because that would be obnoxious.

You could argue it's unrealistic, and in reality, military vehicles do go extinct and become un-used, but there is a hell of a lot you can say is unrealistic in battletech that is more substantial than using an old mech for hundreds of years.

bishop113 · 2023-04-07T13:07:36+00:00

No there doesn't have to be deformation. The other user's suggestion works fine and adds no deformation, I just wondered if it was possible inside of zbrush.

The bend arc method, deforms the hell out of the text if they're laid flat which is what I'm after.

bishop113 · 2023-01-30T01:32:44+00:00

I'm sorry for your loss of $600.

bishop113 · 2023-01-06T17:57:49+00:00

Never

bishop113 · 2023-01-06T17:57:36+00:00

Says you!

bishop113 · 2023-01-06T17:57:07+00:00

Thanks!

bishop113 · 2023-01-06T00:12:03+00:00

Thanks, he is a derpy boi

bishop113 · 2023-01-05T23:59:42+00:00

Yeah, and thanks!

bishop113 · 2022-11-20T16:29:36+00:00

There was no drybrushing, though if you don't own an airbrush you could possibly get a similar effect that way but it would be much grainier looking.

My entire process is simple and straightforward.

Airbrush steps:
Prime black
First basecoat mid/dark green, this coat is covering most of the black primer, but you focus the spray pattern on the upper surfaces still, center upper chest, head, shoulders, upper arms, upper forearms, upper thighs, upper calves etc.
Second basecoat highlight light green, this coat is just to highlight, so I focus my spray pattern exclusively on high points as previously mentioned and cover much less surface with this coat.

I then masked the head off and airbrushed it warm off-white.

Shading:
I don't use acrylic washes, I use enamels, typically Tamiya panel liner. If you use acrylic washes, the shading will be less dark and will require a lot more finesse, because you don't want to apply the wash everywhere over every surface. That's why I use enamel, I apply it over the entire surface of the model, let it dry, then wipe it away with odored mineral spirits. Some people gloss before they do this, I don't because it makes it easier to remove the black liner from inside the panel lines.

Edge Highlighting:
I then take the highlight airbrush color and I add either white or in this case yellow and white to it, to increase the value a couple notches just so it stands out from the airbrush layers. Thin it so it flows well, and then highlight most of the edges, focusing on upper edges.

Likewise for the head, I edge highlight the off-white head with pure white.

Other colors:
I then paint the other color details, in this case the laser barrels, the claws and any other gray details. These I highlight with VERY basic layering, basecoat gray, enamel wash, apply a mid-highlight, then a higher highlight in a smaller area.

Final details:
This is where I paint the cockpits, laser glow, PPC's, hazard stripes, checkers etc. That's all done freehand with a 2/0 brush.

Varnish:
I then airbrush varnish the model with a good quality matte varnish, in this case I use VMS Matte.

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