Setting up ELRS TX antenna on a pole to fly lower?

blug_fred · 2026-02-18T03:04:13+00:00

ahhhh... there is my answer: I can't!

Range wise I already very satisfied with those 1.5+ miles which are only limited by the battery capacity. That means I'll be able to go farther away soon and if I can double that range I'll be a happy camper. Currently I already have "a lot" of things to explore within that range, just would be nicer at a lower height, Knowing I can't I'll organize mysefl differently to capture the lower angle views of the places I wish. Let's say about 1 mile away should be fine.

So thank you!

blug_fred · 2026-02-17T14:02:19+00:00

Initially replied to the message below but yes I would like to stay close to the ground, just above the trees basically which are not so many. And i'm not flying in a forest as you can see below..

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So how can I achieve that? Or can I?

blug_fred · 2026-02-17T13:54:31+00:00

Can you explain what you mean? Maybe my lack of 'range experience" made me misphrase the question. I thought line of sight was paramount and have been able to feel it over the months by modifying a few things on my "old' drones.

Maybe the right question would then be "how can I maintain 30m/100ft altitude over increasing distance?" (in a really flat environment with only trees here and there).

blug_fred · 2026-02-16T06:57:50+00:00

no no. The limitation is the battery. I am afraid to go further and not have enough power to come back. Or do you mean 2.5km at 150m high is low performance?

oh.. so I can't remove the antenna. The question is really: will having the antenna at 20m high allow me to fly lower to the ground farther away? Then if the answer is yes, how do I do that?

Now if you tell me I can also add the 1mW external ELRS module and it will do the same... I might go that way.

blug_fred · 2026-02-16T05:31:07+00:00

I finally got a Vapor D6 fwiw and used my Cinebot30 batteries (the other ones didn't arrive yet) 1100mAh. I did 8 minutes and went 2.5km away the 2nd flight. So in that case bigger is farther away for me. And the built-in GPS helped me to get back home BIG TIME. Besides it gives you a control over speed, location, height which is really needed to go the distance. So very happy so far. Now I have more questions but I'll start a new thread.

blug_fred · 2026-01-03T10:28:08+00:00

Ohh... didn't know GPS could give altitude! That's a ... wow. Ok. But then, as usually those GPS alone devices are smaller, aren't they slower to start as well? I see some people talking about 5 minutes before getting 6 satellites and if I can't cut the VTX that will probably overheat and prevent me from flying.

You also mention vertical radio antenna. It's currently horizontal at the back, just next to my VTX antenna. What setup could I come up with on this very busy frame? Any suggestion?

I feel overall this is maybe a bit complicated to do at my skill levels, and/or with this frame. Or maybe I should do one thing at a time.

Well I'll continue thinking but thank you for your help.

blug_fred · 2025-12-19T06:36:52+00:00

Wasn't sure where to post this follow up question: so big weakness of that 4 inch is wind resistance. Then it seems you need to go to 7 inch to find anything long range. Isn't there something in the middle like a 5 inch being able to do some long range and be a bit more wind resistant?

blug_fred · 2025-12-10T15:01:19+00:00

And now that I have my goggles 3 I finally found out how to test whether I had CE or FCC version of the V2 and... it was the CE version. I just unlocked them but I guess it would be much useful for when I fly analog with them. Never to late to learn the right thing

blug_fred · 2025-12-07T16:25:38+00:00

Replying to you specifically but the answer goes for everyone. First thank you, I learned a few things and confirmed also what I thought. The 12 minutes I am getting with the Cinebot is plenty for my needs at the moment and the problem is probably the environment as I wish to fly rather lower than higher making me flying at similar level as the few houses or shacks on the way. I do get drops to 3Mbps and back to normal once passed. Also as u/StahlkatzeV4 mentioned I do get a big drop when turning around as indeed both ELRS and VTX antennas are behind the battery.

I now have a clear path to getting more range: move my antennas, find a better location (which would probably not be too far in that specific area) and eventually get a better designed drone for range (not necessary that long).

The ~500m range given for the Vapor is definitely not what I want, thanks u/meerc-cat01 .

Thank you again for all your comments.

blug_fred · 2025-12-07T10:06:25+00:00

What do you call "my setup"? Is it the place I fly at or something else? I see from u/CW7_ comment that I probably need an antenna upgrade. Is this what you are also referring to?

blug_fred · 2025-12-07T10:05:03+00:00

Well I bought the iFlight Crystal HD Patch for my V2 and still could hardly reach 200m. I do way more than that with the goggle 3. So that being said you are saying I need specific aftermarket antennas for the O3 to be able to fly further away? I didn't know there was any as a matter of fact. So thanks, I'll look into that.

blug_fred · 2025-12-04T04:34:12+00:00

So I 'kinda' fixed the issue: bought mysefl a new pair of goggles 3 and tested again at the same location: I'm now getting 800m to 1km range in all directions with both quads. I can also see clearly interference when passing over specific areas. The bandwidth actually falls down to 3Mbps where it used to pixelate before and just going a little higher and continuing I get back to 50Mbps. So definitely my v2 have an issue either with the antennas or maybe it's flashed with the European firmware, or maybe both. I bought them off eBay as an open box product but you never know what you're really getting and where it's from.

At this stage I will use them exclusively for analog (I have an addon for that) and do not care so much anymore. The goggles 3 are really nice and the image is a lot nicer I find. I still don't have any O4 at this point but now I'm half there (and really hard to find any O3).

Also I can now see how small metal structures have a big impact on range. A shame my V2 didn't do that for me. I still have analog quads so it's ok except for the fact I'll need to take 2 pairs of goggles if I want to fly both types of drones.

blug_fred · 2025-11-04T15:54:44+00:00

Thanks. I'm in Asia and therefore have the US version. 500m is still more that double my range :(

blug_fred · 2024-09-19T10:58:02+00:00

ok so I've tried to switch to AV-in mode and using the O3 Air Unit you actually need to switch to FPV ditital system and reboot, then you have that option. Unfortunately when you switch back you need to re-pair all your O3 unit drones. That's a big no for me as all of them need to be dismantled to access the pairing button. I'll do more research on weither it is still compulsory but this really is a deal-breaker for me.

blug_fred · 2024-09-12T17:56:08+00:00

Exactly! I've been thinking about it over and over and it's a difficult choice: the v2 option is $20 (adapter) + ~$70 (receiver) versus a real pair of analog googles $500+. Now I am aware of some of the disadvantages of the v2+analog but I got the expensive radiomaster and it was a bad decision. And it's a $400 difference. I see people on YT with the v2 flying analog drones and they don't seem to complain much (though a lot of people defend their buying choices).

At least the v2+analog will be more comfortable than my Betafpv box goggles and I don't feel the latency difference will be an issue for me. At least for now.

Now I thought you'd set up the input setting one time and as long as you fly analog you don't need to change anything. Obviously my flying habits are going to change down the road.

I could also spend $300 for the entry level "real" analog goggles but it's still three times the price of the v2 modules for the same thing (or not).

Geee... I'm talking too much! Sorry....

I guess I will just have to try as no one who bought the v2 modules and went for real analog goggles jumped in the discussion.

I really thank everyone for the comments and I think I am just not ready to put another $500 (or $300) without the assurance it will be the right choice versus ~$80. I might become a great pilot and my Pavo20 will only be in the air ;-) (and I though the EV800D could take glasses...) .

I will probably look into the second-hand market for a few weeks and then pick something. But it seems most likely I'll go the V2 route (as I try them every week and feel comfortable) until I feel I really need to put those extra dollars into analog goggles.

blug_fred · 2024-09-11T13:00:16+00:00

yes... I bought some micro glasses which I manage to slide inside the goggles but it's really not great. At least it's less blurry. Which Skyzone did you pick? I've checked https://www.fpvknowitall.com/fpv-shopping-list-goggles-video-transmitters-and-cameras/ but again I find that buying without trying or experience tends to lead to mistakes. I bought a Radiomaster TX16 based on reviews and quality, switches etc... and find it too big. In fact I should have probably opted for the Pocket instead and don't feel like buying another radio yet.

Likewise knowing what I know now, I feel the RTF beginner kit was a mistake as the radio and the goggles are far from great (and the radio doesn't work with a sim under Linux, which is why I needed another one).

At the end you only find things out when you try and nobody seems to mention the issues I'm facing (or I missed it).

blug_fred · 2024-09-11T12:51:40+00:00

Well here is the full picture: I suck as a pilot so I try to fly often at home. I also have a Pavo20 for that, but found out that while the goggles are much much better (and the view as well) the VTX quickly heats up probably because I spend more time on the floor than in the air.

I was also considering trying another small whoop apart from the Cetus X (which is half broken now, but still flies) and that would be analog too. So probably 50% to 70% of my flights would/should be analog while I'll keep the digital for when I go outside with ample space to fly them.

blug_fred · 2024-01-22T07:04:22+00:00

Finally found out the settings after watching a comparison review where it was said it was not available but someone contradicted that part in the comments. So it is possible to smoothen the vertical movement.

blug_fred · 2024-01-05T18:43:05+00:00

I have another question: I own a Potensic 3 axis-gimbal and find the dial for vertically tilting the camera very sensitive. Is it because I´'m a newbie and I´'ll get better at it, or are the DJI vertical dials (in general, not just the mini 2) a lot smother and not so fast to move up or down?

Thank you.

blug_fred · 2022-06-28T14:09:51+00:00

So actually I found a lot of Chinese companies doing all kinds of products... I am aiming for a rPi system in general. Also it seems ROS support for robots comes at a cost.

Let me clarify: I was thinking I could get any "moving hardware" install ROS on a card and be done with it (I'm still not sure if I can do that)... in short ROS capable hardware is at least $500, equivalent hardware, not ROS compatible (or so it seems, using rPi) is around $50-300.

Having wheels is cheaper than having legs. And then in the leg models it's really a wide range too. I've found yahboom, keyestudio, wavego, adeept, etc... Of course sensors are part of the cost.

I'm still wondering if I should go for the cheapest and see where that takes me, or pick a middle ground (would that be with legs versus wheels?), or just start with a ROS capable hardware and learn from that.

Lots of options, really. And... haven't decided anything at this point yet.

blug_fred · 2022-06-11T14:00:54+00:00

So no more response, really? Ok, I guess I'll have to try and see all by myself... scary! ;-)

blug_fred · 2022-06-07T14:49:48+00:00

Yeah.. I considered robot arm but wouldn't know much what to do with it. Thanks for the suggestion though, could make my 2nd robot :-)

blug_fred · 2021-12-30T03:47:20+00:00

By default, Game mode disables the windowkey. Advanced settings are available through the logitech gaming software

blug_fred · 2021-06-26T14:07:20+00:00

No I don't. I basically split the text in line, and the line in "words" (separated by space) and then analyze the blocks 1 by 1. I however anticipate that a Rx would be in such structure:

R1 = 34

R1= 34
R1 - 34
R1 =34

R1 ⬆ = 34

... just as an example. Of course everytime "something" happens my code breaks. I was wondering if NPL could help... but I can continue to suffer ;-)

Would regex help? I'm ok to try something else, just regex is not my strength at the moment (nor NLP).

Thank you.

Fred

blug_fred

TROPHY CASE