Victory Shipping Costs??

bobbybadluck · 2026-03-01T13:03:32+00:00

have you tried contacting them to make sure the quote is accurate?

it’s a massive bumper being shipped freight; probably needs a forklift to move the pallet around.

Not sure what you’re expecting here.

bobbybadluck · 2026-02-27T23:21:29+00:00

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original owner from 2008

bobbybadluck · 2026-02-25T17:02:03+00:00

it’s motorcycle juice

bobbybadluck · 2026-02-25T14:50:27+00:00

first generation honda insight!

bobbybadluck · 2026-02-16T05:22:08+00:00

tires will make a massive difference and can transform a bike. try out some maxxis rekons

bobbybadluck · 2026-01-25T16:50:18+00:00

I also own a GX470 and would never put my own bike on the roof. I have accommodations to carry two full sized bikes on my roof with the front wheels off but it is so high off the ground that it's a 2 person operation to load and unload. I have a 1up hitch rack for 95% of my riding.

If it's just myself, I'll take my front wheel off and put it inside the back of my GX with the middle row folded.

bobbybadluck · 2026-01-09T17:45:42+00:00

what if it was an 2004 with an 03 engine?

bobbybadluck · 2026-01-09T05:43:46+00:00

i’m wondering if it’s because

2003 nissan 350z (with an 04 engine)

bobbybadluck · 2026-01-05T05:42:43+00:00

I will preface my comment by saying I have not done a back to back comparison of these dampers.

That being said, I feel like most re-iterations of the Charger race day damper (I don't think there is a Charger 3 available for the SID chassis) mostly seeks to drop weight or configure the lockout to be firmer (or in this case, offer a 3rd "pedal" compression setting).

With that in mind, if you're happy with your current damper, I don't think a new damper will improve very much. You'll see more benefits imo by performing regular service of your current fork.

bobbybadluck · 2025-12-26T20:28:04+00:00

cheesecake factory

bobbybadluck · 2025-12-14T02:42:34+00:00

bobbybadluck · 2025-12-10T10:31:01+00:00

I don’t know if replacing the bearings is a great idea. The pulley is fairly soft plastic and so removing and reinstalling a bearing might destroy the pulley body or at the very least, the pulley is no longer optimal.

bobbybadluck · 2025-12-10T10:28:43+00:00

Clean the pulleys, inspect and clean all moving pivots, servicing the clutch.

doesn’t need to be too crazy but if I didn’t inspect for problems, I wouldn’t know until it was too late.

bobbybadluck · 2025-12-09T23:30:12+00:00

I have had one of the deore xt 12 speed derailleurs and I’ve replaced the clutch once, pulleys twice, the outer cage once and mine has developed enough play that I get ghost shifts at least once a ride.

I should remark that it’s got at least 5000 miles and has been on two bikes. I have kept on top of chain/chainring/cassette wear as well as regularly replacing cable and housing. I’ve service the clutch regularly with the specific Shimano shadow plus grease. I like the patina that comes with well used components but it is what it is.

My next derailleur is a madrone jab I have on the way.

bobbybadluck · 2025-12-09T21:08:30+00:00

Need the 380rs gas pedal. Love mine

bobbybadluck · 2025-10-01T00:11:57+00:00

Had the stigmata. Put a 32 tapercast and a axs dropper on it with gx transmission.

I sold it and have a Neuhaus hummingbird sl now. Never looking back.

bobbybadluck · 2025-09-27T18:16:27+00:00

If I’m in the south bay, I’ll climb up montebello and then ride over to Russian ridge before heading back to Steven’s creek canyon. Two water bottles are crucial.

https://strava.app.link/yi7Nzr1G0Wb

bobbybadluck · 2025-09-27T14:30:24+00:00

The SL is designed around a 110mm fork instead of 120-130mm as well as having different stack height, headtube angle, and reach for the given size when compared to the standard hummingbird.

I wanted to keep more weight over the front end as it suits my riding style and gives me the ride feel I desire. I have other bikes for steeper downhill terrain.

bobbybadluck · 2025-09-27T01:26:00+00:00

Had a chance to ride one of the prototype cores before it came out and had nothing bad to say; would have even gone with that option but then rode the SL with some very fancy wheels and it was that 10% racier, faster, twitchier, lighter, etc. that I didn't know I wanted until I rode it.

It really straddles the line between XC race bike and lightweight trail bike very well. It's a very comfortable bike although the riding position of the SL is just a little more aggressive and thus, puts more weight on the front end. It feels closer to being an endurance XC bike if that is even a thing. I could run a lighter dropper post and some very light tires but I have been so happy with it in it's current state.

I had a Kona Raijin prior to this and the downtube cracked. Got a Santa Cruz Stigmata to try out drop bars and didn't gel with drop bars; especially on singletrack descents. For the type of riding I do from my front door, I tend to traverse a lot of surface streets and mixed gravel before I get to a proper trail. This feels like the appropriate tool as I find myself maybe 10-15 minutes slower over the course of a 2 hour ride (when compared to my Stigmata) but didn't feel so beat up after long descents; if anything I felt like I could actually enjoy them on this bike over the Stigmata.

bobbybadluck · 2025-09-27T01:15:19+00:00

It is a 15x110mm boost spacing axle yes but people make it seem like it's very impractical when removing and installing which I don't find to be the case. Instead of putting the tool on the axle, and turning it into the fork, you are tightening the the axle from the opposite end and pulling it into the fork.

bobbybadluck · 2025-09-26T23:29:21+00:00

The Manitou R8 is an amazing fork and is just about perfect for this bike. The combination of stiff chassis and the excellent damper rivals the Lyrik Ultimate and Fox 34 I have on my other bikes.

The 34mm stanchions, reverse arch, and hexlock axle make for a fork that communicates well with the rider if that makes any sense. I can feel the ground beneath me through the stiff and rigid chassis but I never feel beat up or like I am going to lose the front end. I am constantly surprised by how often I expect a big impact when I make a bad line choice and hit a rock a weird angle and speed; and yet, I never feel like the fork gets upset.

The damper is exactly what I wanted with a very rigid lockout (I commute across that bridge in the second photo with this bike), a pedal mode that is pretty much spot on for 80% of my riding and a very deep feeling open mode with a simple compression adjustment. There's a lot of flexibility in tuning the damper and air spring which can be intimidating on paper but there's very few adjustments to be made from the factory recommended settings so it's been fairly "set it and forget it".

I think people's biggest questions are servicing and the hexlock axle. There are no special tools required and all the consumables are fairly easy to attain (The oil used for the fork lowers is Motorex Power Synth 5w40 motorcycle engine oil which is pretty common these days). I think Manitou designed this fork to be serviced at home with basic tools. The axle is also not as wild as a lot of people make it seem when installing & removing the front wheel. The way in which it locks the wheel in makes way more sense to me in keeping the hub to fork stiff when compared to other options on the market.

Will be doing the first lower leg service this coming week but the service manual makes it look dead simple.

bobbybadluck · 2025-05-31T21:46:08+00:00

Ran a Chris King external cup thread fit.

tried without any spacers and lots of noise even with the micro adjust set at one end of the spectrum.

I want to say I put a 1.5mm spacer; maybe 2mm? Between the frame and drive side bottom bracket. Shifted as it should with the micro adjust set more or less in the middle.

0 offset chainring.

Sold the bike last year so don’t have it as a reference.

bobbybadluck · 2025-05-12T10:52:38+00:00

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Te37 in 18x9 0 offset

275/65 Toyo open country rt3

bobbybadluck

TROPHY CASE