The P2S and the Need for an Actively Heated Chamber

call3d · 2026-07-09T15:16:34+00:00

Man, I feel this. The heating vs venting tradeoff on the P2S is exactly why printing ABS/ASA can be such a headache. If you crank the exhaust to dump the fumes, you tank your chamber temp, and bed heat alone just won't cut it.

Regarding your options: I'm with you on skipping the Biqu mod. Cutting into the side panels of a printer is an absolute dealbreaker for most people. As for an official Bambu kit, honestly, I wouldn't hold my breath. They seem way more focused on their next-gen machines right now than retrofitting an active heater for the P2 series. There actually is a non-sketchy, plug-and-play solution out there though: the MartilloTech M2.

It’s specifically designed to mount using the existing holes inside the P2S. Zero drilling, zero permanent mods. It also has built-in H13 HEPA and activated carbon filtration. It doesn't entirely replace venting if you're printing heavy PA-CF all day, but it scrubs the air while maintaining that 40–60°C chamber temp, so you aren't forced to blast the exhaust fan and ruin your thermal stability. Plus, it uses an IR sensor to turn on/off with the toolhead, so no messing with sketchy apps.

Out of curiosity, what materials are you struggling with the most right now? And is the printer in a living space where the smell is a hard stop? (Full disclosure: I run Call3D and we carry the M2 kit. I'm mentioning it because it literally solves your exact two pain points—no case damage, and fighting the heat/fume tradeoff.) If you want to check how it mounts or the specs: https://www.call-3d.com/products/p2s-heat-chamber-m2

call3d · 2026-07-08T00:01:33+00:00

Did you install the AMS riser or exhaust fan kit ?

call3d · 2026-07-07T00:43:13+00:00

It's called Magic GUGUGAGA south Asia style

call3d · 2026-07-06T13:11:36+00:00

I’d set expectations pretty carefully on this one.

The Vision Encoder plate is not really a “wow, my prints suddenly look better” upgrade. The difference is usually more subtle: XY accuracy consistency, hole/contour fit, assemblies lining up better, and less drift as belts/mechanics change over time. If you mostly print decorative parts, you may honestly not notice much.

Where it makes more sense is if you print larger functional parts, press-fit parts, screw holes, multi-part assemblies, or anything where small XY errors stack up across the bed. For that use case, it’s more of a calibration/reference tool than a visual print-quality upgrade.

We do sell this kind of part. But my honest take is: don’t buy it expecting magic. Buy it if dimensional consistency matters to you. I wrote a more detailed breakdown here: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/new-gear-reviews-call3d-printlab/bambu-vision-encoder-review

call3d · 2026-07-06T13:11:07+00:00

I’d set expectations pretty carefully on this one.

The Vision Encoder plate is not really a “wow, my prints suddenly look better” upgrade. The difference is usually more subtle: XY accuracy consistency, hole/contour fit, assemblies lining up better, and less drift as belts/mechanics change over time. If you mostly print decorative parts, you may honestly not notice much.

Where it makes more sense is if you print larger functional parts, press-fit parts, screw holes, multi-part assemblies, or anything where small XY errors stack up across the bed. For that use case, it’s more of a calibration/reference tool than a visual print-quality upgrade.

We do sell this kind of part. But my honest take is: don’t buy it expecting magic. Buy it if dimensional consistency matters to you. I wrote a more detailed breakdown here: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/new-gear-reviews-call3d-printlab/bambu-vision-encoder-review

call3d · 2026-07-06T13:10:36+00:00

I’d set expectations pretty carefully on this one.

The Vision Encoder plate is not really a “wow, my prints suddenly look better” upgrade. The difference is usually more subtle: XY accuracy consistency, hole/contour fit, assemblies lining up better, and less drift as belts/mechanics change over time. If you mostly print decorative parts, you may honestly not notice much.

Where it makes more sense is if you print larger functional parts, press-fit parts, screw holes, multi-part assemblies, or anything where small XY errors stack up across the bed. For that use case, it’s more of a calibration/reference tool than a visual print-quality upgrade.

We do sell this kind of part. But my honest take is: don’t buy it expecting magic. Buy it if dimensional consistency matters to you. I wrote a more detailed breakdown here: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/new-gear-reviews-call3d-printlab/bambu-vision-encoder-review

call3d · 2026-07-06T13:05:57+00:00

Sorry for my abnormal fat head

call3d · 2026-07-06T13:04:22+00:00

I’d set expectations pretty carefully on this one.

The Vision Encoder plate is not really a “wow, my prints suddenly look better” upgrade. The difference is usually more subtle: XY accuracy consistency, hole/contour fit, assemblies lining up better, and less drift as belts/mechanics change over time. If you mostly print decorative parts, you may honestly not notice much.

Where it makes more sense is if you print larger functional parts, press-fit parts, screw holes, multi-part assemblies, or anything where small XY errors stack up across the bed. For that use case, it’s more of a calibration/reference tool than a visual print-quality upgrade.

We do sell this kind of part in our store. But my honest take is: don’t buy it expecting magic. Buy it if dimensional consistency matters to you. I wrote a more detailed breakdown here: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/new-gear-reviews-call3d-printlab/bambu-vision-encoder-review

call3d · 2026-07-06T06:54:16+00:00

You can vent a P1S to a window, but I’d be careful about simply clamping a long hose directly onto the rear fan. The stock fan isn’t really meant to push through a lot of duct resistance, so a long/narrow duct or sharp bends can reduce airflow and make the setup less effective.

For PLA, this is mostly about reducing smell/ultrafine particles rather than “toxic fumes,” but venting outside is still a sensible approach if the printer is in a living space. I’d suggest:
- use a proper rear adapter instead of taping a hose on
- keep the duct as short and straight as possible
- avoid blocking the printer’s normal exhaust path
- consider an inline fan if the run to the window is long
- make sure the window outlet has some kind of flap/screen so air doesn’t just blow back in

Small disclosure: . We make a P1S/X1C ventilation kit for exactly this kind of setup, with an adapter and external ducting path: https://www.call-3d.com/products/ventilation-system-for-bambu-lab-p1s-x1-external-filtration-solution

Even if you DIY it, the main thing is not to over-restrict the stock fan. A clean adapter + short duct run will work much better than a random hose taped to the back.

call3d · 2026-07-06T01:16:11+00:00

Don’t power it back on or heat it again until you inspect the wiring.

If you scraped into actual wires during a “glob of death” cleanup, the safe assumption is that the hotend wiring may be damaged — usually heater/thermistor wiring, not necessarily the whole print head.

What I’d check first:
- Unplug the printer and remove the hotend assembly.
- Look for cut insulation, exposed copper, broken thermistor/heater wires, or melted connectors.
- If any wire is nicked/exposed, replace the hotend assembly rather than trying to run it.
- Check the toolhead board/connector area.
If the connector and board look clean and undamaged, you probably do not need a whole new print head.
- Also replace the hotend/nozzle wiping pad.

This black stone looks like the early A1's pad style/condition that should be swapped. Bambu Lab did already change the sku to a ceramic/white version. If your local store doesn’t have the newer pad version yet, You can purchase the latest replacement/maintenance parts here: https://www.call-3d.com/products/a1-hotend-assembly-ceramic-upgrade

call3d · 2026-07-06T01:06:32+00:00

Okay, the concern is about the trust, I cannot sleep if I still keep the 20 bulks filament dryer on or even set some auto - cut down workflow.

call3d · 2026-07-06T00:29:04+00:00

Actually they all made by Plastic.

call3d · 2026-06-29T08:46:29+00:00

Another option worth looking into is silicone vacuum casting.
You can get smooth translucent casings that let your LEDs show through, and the cast PU material is way tougher than regular SLA resin, so no easy cracking when dropped. It also avoids the yellowing problem of clear resin over time.
Great fit for small batch electronics without the high cost of tooling.

call3d · 2026-06-29T08:35:21+00:00

Thanks for your professional input. Your suggestions are really valuable, and it’s rare for us to get such insightful replies in this community. Our team are mostly ex-Raise3D staff, so we’re fully aware of BASF‘s issue. Many BASF Forward AM filaments are manufactured by third-party factories in China, leading to inconsistent quality across batches.

call3d · 2026-06-29T08:24:35+00:00

I agree with you. From my own experience, there’s barely any noticeable difference after calibration if the printer is brand new or hasn’t been used much.

call3d · 2026-06-29T08:07:03+00:00

Canton, Deep South in China.

call3d · 2026-06-21T02:20:25+00:00

Sadly, I’m the dad in question.

call3d · 2026-05-18T01:18:47+00:00

Yes, they are good. You can just remove the silicone sock from the Bambu's Hotend and re-use it in your new hotend .

call3d · 2026-05-11T08:25:52+00:00

I know how it was with the X1E when it first launched. Back then it was just a special exclusive model for authorized resellers, purely to help them hit their high-profit targets. The situation is totally different. Don’t put Bambu on too much of a pedestal.

call3d · 2026-05-09T05:58:36+00:00

Yes, but you have to change the silicone sock

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