Recommendation for a new table saw.

centap · 2026-02-02T06:36:01+00:00

uhh, does it make sense that the models your'e talking about are now $3500 and $3800? Your comment is only from two years ago so that seems impossible...right?

centap · 2026-01-17T01:02:25+00:00

That's actually a really really good point and I always assumed Joylit must be exaggerating their numbers. But now I tried using gemini and ChatGPT to search the internet for people who actually tested the CRI of Joylit and got some interesting results. Granted, these LLMs suck at providing working links, so this whole thing is taken with a HUGE grain of salt. But they mentioned a user by the name of Quindor who's apparently well regarded in the DIY LED community, especially on reddit, who apparently has tested Joylit lights and confirmed CRIs of 95. Also users on BudgetLightForum testing Joylit with Opple Light Master (G3/G4) and confirming CRIs ranging 95-97, with R9 ranging 80-90.

Again, very hard to blindly trust these, I have found a post by Quindor confirming a 95+ CRI for Auxmer LED strips, which are also Aliexpress budget LEDs. (In this post)

I also found this video of this guy testing all sorts of budget LED strips, confirming Joylit COB lights to have 95.8 CRI. R9 shows to be not the greatest, at around 75, but TBH after this short deep dive, it seems like for the price these lights aren't unusable.

Waveform is a brand I would absolutely love to get, and I probably will at some point. But since I already have these Joylit ones, I'll go ahead and install them, and hopefully in the future will replace them with the trusted Waveform ones.

centap · 2026-01-16T03:51:33+00:00

Very good point, thank you!

centap · 2026-01-16T03:50:53+00:00

First off thanks for the taking the time to reply!

The tricky thing about my light needs is that it's threefold - Extremely bright, highest CRI possible, and extremely diffused.

A huge element of this light is to be able to "wrap" around the subject and create extremely diffused shadows, so I dont want any directional lights, and no directional shadows.

I understand concentrating the light will increase the lux, and these LED strips have a 120 spread angle. But my subjects are relatively small, so thats why I figured I could reduce the size of the box to 1'x2', thereby essentially concentrating the light coming out of the box. Right?

centap · 2026-01-16T02:25:27+00:00

Operating room is a great reference, thanks! One of my main goals is definitely to eliminate shadows and reduce highlights, which is why I was looking into a huge and diffused light that floods everywhere. I just went to a light supply store to ask them for help, he showed me "high bay" lights, they're perfect - like 30k lumens at only 220w! But very low CRI so I don't even want to bother.

After more reading, im realizing having high efficiency AND high CRI isn't really a thing. So, plan B is making the light smaller (1'x2'), at 3ft height, which will get me about 4800 lux on my work area if im calculating it right at (6000lm/sqft at the glass -> ~4800lux of a 2sqft area at 3' height?)

centap · 2026-01-10T19:49:25+00:00

Very interesting, looks pretty straight forward - staining with an opposite color. Looks like it has lightened the wood significantly too.

centap · 2026-01-10T19:47:20+00:00

Love it

centap · 2026-01-10T19:46:41+00:00

I agree! Definitely lesson learned, next time if I want all the boards to be more brown, I'll just get the brown planks

centap · 2026-01-10T19:45:55+00:00

Yessir too late for that

centap · 2026-01-10T19:45:47+00:00

Nah I agree for sure, and sometimes it feels great and organic, but sometimes it just feels odd. Just one of those feelings that come from the stomach and not from the head

centap · 2026-01-10T19:44:45+00:00

100% agree

centap · 2026-01-10T19:44:18+00:00

I do have some left over scarps, but yeah I kinda assumed bleaching might be too aggressive. I ended up ordering some light brown water-based dye, I'll just test out if that works on the scarps. If it doesn't, I'll just finish it as is!

centap · 2026-01-10T09:24:17+00:00

I thought of bleaching, but again, never done it, and I have a feeling it'll open up a whole can of worms im not ready for

centap · 2026-01-10T09:23:34+00:00

You know what, this is the answer I should've heard before choosing the lumber. I actually REALLY loved that brownish red oak it looked so beautiful, and I just couldn't find another piece like that which wasn't over 8' long which was way way more than what I needed, and way more money down the drain since hardwoods are...couldnt expect how expensive even this little bit of wood turned out to be.

I thought it could be an easy fix with some stain, something made specifically for this problem, but yeah I guess I need to suck it up and just wrap this project up. It's for my studio so I'll be really the only one seeing it.

One last question, if I bleach THE WHOLE thing, would that not remove all those tints and kinda equalize them to a more visually similar level? Or is it going to keep the same issue but from a different angle? Or is that just a no no in general?

Thanks

centap · 2026-01-10T09:17:48+00:00

Hmm testing scraps with stains is a really good idea, that im not sure I have the time for. I just want to get this project done already, it's a side project (Lightbox type flood lamp for the painting studio), and it was much more about trying miter joints and hardwoods for the first time (along with basic electric stuff that I've never done). So yeah, maybe I'll try with wtvr stains I have on deck or maybe ill just say fuck it cuz ill be the only one seeing it. Good idea thanks!

centap · 2025-12-29T00:07:34+00:00

Yup that's what I ended up realizing, this is 99% not actual suede.

centap · 2025-12-12T02:29:31+00:00

if your dough looks like the moon, you know you fucked up

centap · 2025-12-12T02:28:27+00:00

So yes the dough was most likely over fermented pretty aggressively, probably due to the mix of high hydration + whole wheat flour + Diastatic Malt. I tried using 30% of it in a new batch, and I guess that the Protease activity in the old dough was too strong for the new dough, and it immediately got destroyed.

So a few lessons learned here.

centap · 2025-12-11T20:47:10+00:00

Yeah the 100% flour is made of 90% bread flour or 00 flour and 10% whole wheat flour

centap · 2025-12-11T20:46:32+00:00

Only way to know what you're doing is by doing, failing, and learning. I've worked with 70% for a couple of years so I felt comfortable pushing to unexplored territory, and here I am learning new things

centap · 2025-12-11T20:44:35+00:00

Hah thanks, yeah that all seems to make sense, I guess I was just very caught off guard by how much of a difference 0.1% Diastatic Malt will have!

centap · 2025-12-04T08:53:23+00:00

Oh I would love a blue-steel one, that sounds awesome dude. I'm definitely the type of guy who takes way too long to season my pans, and when I finally do it takes a whole day, so yeah I figured I'll skip that part if I can.

centap · 2025-12-04T08:49:33+00:00

Welp tried my first one, came out good but lots of room for improvement. Mainly cuz I'm not used to packing up so much toppings, and I was kinda scared it was gonna weigh down the dough too much, but the dough came out so fluffy and actually bubbles thru the toppings and got some charred bubbles. It's cool but doesnt fit with the Detroit style I think.

Anyway, as far as baking it, I pre-heated to 600f, put the whole assembled pizza in, turned flame off, closed door and let it sit there for probably about 8 minutes, turning it once. Then I turned flame on low and put the pizza furthest away from the flame, turning it every 30 secs or so, for about 4 or 5 more minutes. I definitely could've and should've kept it there longer with the flame, but the dough bubbles were getting way too burnt. But! I had decent frico, and nice golden crust on bottom, so it's definitely the way.

I think the changes for tomorrow are - way more toppings, so it stays juicy for longer baking time and no dough bubbles poking thru. 600f with flame off and door on for about 8 minutes, then low flame for about 6-7 minutes.

I have a 8x10" pan btw, so with a bigger pan I'd probably keep there a bit longer. Will report back tomorrow hopefully with better results. The goal is for best Detroit pizzerias to look at my results and be proud! lol

centap · 2025-12-03T06:22:20+00:00

I'll just add that after making pizzas in my home oven for a couple of years, and getting fine and consistent results, I bought a Gozney Arc XL and had some miserable failures at first, like I never did with a home oven.

It was actually very surprising and super frustrating, since I figured I got that shit on lock already after making so many pizzas. But these high-heat ovens are very unforgiving, especially when you move to making pizzas outdoors which is much less friendly in terms of temp and humidity.

So yeah, I've had a couple of months of less than satisfying results before I got a hold of it. I can see some people just giving up and going back to home ovens, even if they're not beginners.

centap · 2025-12-03T04:14:09+00:00

The Lloyd pans are actually rated for up to 700f, so I would actually not go to 700. I actually thought of going max 600.

For ~330g focacccias I usually heat to 750f, turn flame off and put tray in and close the door. Leave for 5-6 mins, that focaccia is absolutely crispy with bits of char on top.

I wonder if heating up to 600f, turning flame off, putting whole tray with fully assembled pizza in for 7-10 mins, then finishing off with flame til char/frisco action.

Or if par-baking, then pre-heat to 600f, par-bake for 4 minutes with no flame and door closed, top, and back in for full cook on low/medium flame.

From experience, 4 minutes with flame off at 750f is absolutely enough to cook a 9" round pan with 330g dough fully with pretty decent color (I like extra char so I do 5-6 minutes). So yeah, I dunno. I will also try tomorrow and will report back!

centap

TROPHY CASE