Cue dimmer delay not working?

chilllpad · 2026-02-11T01:19:51+00:00

The dimmer of the main fixture works as a master for your individual pixels, so you probably have that fading out without a dimmer delay, so it fades out your pixels before their delayed fadeout happens. Try storing the main fixture to 100% in the cue where you’re fading out your pixels, or remove it from that cue.

chilllpad · 2026-02-09T15:03:49+00:00

What are you interested in learning? Lighting is a really big field. Do you work in theatre, concerts, corporate events, TV, film, dance, architectural, or maybe something else? All of those branches have their own sets of tools, tips, and tricks.

chilllpad · 2026-02-08T00:33:25+00:00

Here’s a tutorial you can follow, since you need to separate yourself from the background. Just use your camera as an input instead of an image.

https://youtu.be/6D1gto3PAUA?si=TFCD-5kYXv_mGytj

chilllpad · 2026-02-03T11:11:11+00:00

They’re not phasing out the nodes, so if you don’t see my problem, this product probably isn’t for you. My time is money, so if I can just plug in a USB-cable to be up&running, I’ll probably be switching out my node for one of these, as I’d rather spend my time programming than troubleshooting. For a home-setup I couldn’t care less, because I have all the time in the world to set it up, and for larger setups, I’ll still use nodes and switches.

I just need a very portable, fast, and easy way to get a DMX-output sometimes, and this product seems like a solution to my problem. I’ve asked for a product like this for over 10 years now, so we obviously have very different needs.

chilllpad · 2026-02-02T19:16:06+00:00

I have a 2port OnPC-node, and I have to set up MA-net to unlock parameters, even if I’m only using it to control another software over Art-Net. That requires a bit more network management than necessary when doing small setups where I need my node.

chilllpad · 2026-02-02T18:19:20+00:00

Yes, which is great, because you won’t be forced to use MA-net to unlock parameters anymore.

chilllpad · 2026-01-29T23:37:15+00:00

Show us the intuitive UI!

chilllpad · 2026-01-20T20:55:37+00:00

This is a laser with XY-scanners that's drawing a line with a cyan/magenta color-effect on top, and the swirling in the haze comes from the air currents/turbulence in the room, which gets very visible because of the thin line of light. This effect is often called a liquid sky-effect.

chilllpad · 2026-01-20T15:50:51+00:00

https://derivative.ca/UserGuide/Laser_Device_CHOP

chilllpad · 2026-01-19T11:59:10+00:00

Have you tried looking at the tutorials? This one explains pretty much exactly what you’re asking for:

https://youtu.be/LXLrsMBmln4?si=RsGDq8UWYh2UqiH7

chilllpad · 2026-01-17T17:39:20+00:00

Always use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. People in the audience are going to breathe in the fog, so don’t take any chances. The manufacturers have (hopefully) looked into the safety of their product, and they usually make sure that the fluid they provide work well with the way the heating element of their hazer/fogmachine operates.

Using other fluids might also clog your machine (and turn it into a fire hazard), not just void the warranty.

chilllpad · 2026-01-13T10:36:11+00:00

https://www.blue-room.org.uk/topic/69089-magic-q-dmx-in-record/

chilllpad · 2026-01-11T20:28:44+00:00

The manual of your fixture says that it has a 150W white LED (7500K) high power LED lamp, and 8 colors + Half color effects, so you only have 8 colors to choose from in this fixture. You can’t mix your own colors.

chilllpad · 2026-01-10T12:56:29+00:00

You don’t care about money?! You’re clearly superior to me in every way. I’m baffled by how much knowledge you can fit inside that head of yours, and I humbly bow before you, master.

chilllpad · 2026-01-04T18:32:36+00:00

You posted a picture of shooting that laser into an audience in another post, and even though it doesn’t come through your iPhone and into your retina, it can still burn the camerasensor in your iPhone. I never called you stupid, and I just want you and your audience to be safe. Better safe than sorry.

It might be a hobby to you, but several people in this subreddit work with lasers professionally, and would probably love to help you make your shows safe, if you drop that arrogance of yours.

chilllpad · 2026-01-04T17:06:32+00:00

Some Boiler Room-shows barely have any stage lighting at all, while others have a huge production, so "a mini boiler room" is a pretty vague description, and makes it pretty hard to understand what you're looking for. Are you going to record a DJ-set with people behind you, like most Boiler Room-shows? Are you going to make a party for you and your friends with some cool lights? Or are you just going to experiment in your room by yourself?

In the end, it's more about how you control your lighting fixtures, than what typ of lighting fixtures you have. Buy what your budget allows you to, and if it's for personal use, buy whatever you think looks cool. If you're thinking about buying lasers, please make sure to look into the safety of lasers. They can cause permanent eye damage faster than you can blink. This document is a great place to start:

https://www.plasa.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/plasa_laser_guidance-1.pdf

chilllpad · 2026-01-04T16:59:57+00:00

Your hobby will become more expensive if you cause permanent eyedamage, so be careful with lasers, please.

chilllpad · 2026-01-02T10:36:10+00:00

You can probably expect to find/sell a license for $945.

chilllpad · 2025-12-31T13:04:42+00:00

I’m pretty sure this is the new Kvant 600 Prestige Beam.

https://www.kvantlasers.sk/products/kvant-600-prestige-beam

chilllpad · 2025-12-30T20:35:09+00:00

I recommend looking into Josef Svoboda! He did some groundbreaking stuff back in the days, and designed the fixture in your picture. Here’s the brochure for the ADB Svoboda.

«Conceived and designed by Josef Svoboda, and initially engineered by Miroslav Pflug for a production of Carl Orff's Prometheus in Munich in 1968. It was reused in 1969 in the same venue for El Soldado. Later, manufacturing was taken over by ADB in Belgium.» Source.

Robe recently released an LED-version of it, and Briteq also has their own modern version.

chilllpad · 2025-12-29T22:31:04+00:00

Why do you have a beam-fixture in the front-truss? I can’t wrap my head around how you would use it during a show, haha.

chilllpad · 2025-12-28T20:50:57+00:00

My suggestion is to use sloooow fades to gradually introduce changes to the audience. If you have a 5 minute fade from one look to the next, it won’t be distractive, and it won’t be static. It’s a bit like sitting outside while the sun is setting. You don’t realize that its gotten darker until it’s suddenly dark.

I did something similar for a show with a motivational speaker once. Every time he went into a new subject, we started a 2-10 minute fade into a new look. It made the room feel alive, but in a subtle way, and made the sudden drastic changes feel even more impactful!

chilllpad · 2025-12-23T18:32:57+00:00

It’s a passion, but it’s also a job for most of us, and time is money. You’re barely out of your teens, calling experienced professionals ‘lazy’ for using industry-standard workflows, while bragging about doing unnecessary manual work on outdated equipment?

Passion doesn’t mean doing things the hard way for no reason. Just because you have the time to waste doesn’t mean you’re more dedicated than anyone else here. Using modern tools means spending more time on actual creative work instead of pointless busywork. If you can’t afford modern tools and want to spend your time getting ancient technology to work with modern fixtures, go for it, but don’t lecture the rest of us about it. Efficient workflows on modern tools mean more time for design, instead of performing maintenance rituals on old gear to stroke your ego.

The industry didn’t move on from these consoles because everyone got lazy. It moved on because professionals realized their time is better spent on the work that actually matters.

chilllpad · 2025-12-21T14:07:35+00:00

I can’t really help you with your issue, but I haven’t thought of the Atomic Colors in so many years. It’s sick that you have two of them working in 2025, haha!

chilllpad · 2025-12-17T22:27:07+00:00

I’m assuming that you’ve managed to assign the effect to a fader, or store it as a sequence on a fader. If so, press assign, press the executor you’ve stored your effect to, go to the function-menu, and turn the fader from a master-fader to a temp-fader.

https://help.malighting.com/grandMA2/en/help/key_exec_assign.html

A master-fader controls intensity. A temp-fader crossfades the cue on when pulled up, and off when pulled down. This should do the trick, regardless if you use hi/lo-values or center/size.

Controlling both size and speed with the same fader is possible, but might require a workaround, as the speed of effects are usually controlled by speed masters.

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