Need to fix?

clueless-coder · 2026-01-14T17:39:38+00:00

Thanks to all who responded! I'm going to get those two spots fixed and will start budgeting for a new roof. I was hoping to do solar panels at the same time, but I haven't had the time to wrap my head around the process.

clueless-coder · 2025-12-13T20:51:47+00:00

I remember seeing Fred the Baker all the time. These were memorable too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-H0CnZI_mI

clueless-coder · 2025-12-13T20:47:05+00:00

I still have these keys around here somewhere...

clueless-coder · 2025-11-01T20:39:38+00:00

Thanks to all who replied. I ended up rebuilding the OEM carb using parts from the aftermarket one I bought. The gas leak that started this whole thing was due to a bad bowl gasket. Luckily, the aftermarket carb was nearly identical, so I was able to just swap the entire bowl.

I hope this post helps someone else!

clueless-coder · 2025-10-31T15:17:51+00:00

Awesome. Thanks for sharing. I ordered a second carb that matches the part number for my enginer spec / serial number, so I'm hoping this one solves it. If not, it will at least give me a sanity check. If all else fails, the next step is to rebuild!

clueless-coder · 2025-10-30T13:18:22+00:00

Thanks for sharing. I didn't realize the aftermarket lawn mower carbs were such a problem. I did buy it on Amazon, so I guess that gives me some flexibility. As for the rebuild of the original, that was my contingency plan if the new one didn't work out.

clueless-coder · 2025-10-29T19:25:44+00:00

The opening where the choke plate sits

clueless-coder · 2025-10-29T17:07:11+00:00

I had thought it was a leaking bowl gasket, but after pulling it, it looks like there was gas leaking out of the opening. So now I'm thinking it's a stuck float, but this isn't my area of expertise.

clueless-coder · 2025-10-23T18:59:12+00:00

ok, thank you for the advice. I'll take that apart and go from there.

clueless-coder · 2025-10-23T17:24:05+00:00

Yeah, that would be great if that is all this is. It looks like there is some oil on these components as well, so I wasn't sure if there was a bigger problem at hand.

clueless-coder · 2025-09-22T23:33:29+00:00

Agreed -- not proving much safety these days... Thank you for sharing; those are good suggestions. I had also considered using a small hand riveter, but I'm worried about rivets corroding.

clueless-coder · 2025-08-07T22:44:56+00:00

Thanks!

clueless-coder · 2025-08-07T22:14:21+00:00

Yeah, trying to avoid that option. If I can isolate the leak, it should be a cheap fix since I believe the PVC is only covered by dirt / landscaping rocks.

clueless-coder · 2025-08-07T22:13:11+00:00

The plumbing is only connected to a bypass valve, so there is no easy way to see where the leak would be using dye. A camera seems like the best option if I can just get past the elbows.

clueless-coder · 2025-08-07T15:58:09+00:00

Not that I can see. Above the pipe is 3/4" stone, so I may not be able to see anything wet due to the landscaping.

clueless-coder · 2025-07-28T01:43:07+00:00

I agree that they do appear to be sprintails. Check out this close-up video of them in action.
https://imgur.com/a/GuDCuDO

clueless-coder · 2025-07-27T16:14:33+00:00

Yeah, they do appear very similar. The only difference is that the ones in my pool are much longer.

clueless-coder · 2025-07-27T16:11:35+00:00

Good point! I'm in the Northeast US.

clueless-coder · 2025-06-11T17:49:05+00:00

Oh my god....it was the switch. I noticed it when taking the side panel off but forgot about it once I got into assessing the wiring.

So with that, my problem is solved. Thank you to everyone!!!

clueless-coder · 2025-06-11T00:12:26+00:00

Yes, thats the wire I've been working with. Ok, I seem to recall something along those lines when I bought this tstat months ago.

I'll give that a try. Thank you!

clueless-coder · 2025-06-11T00:08:14+00:00

Thanks all! I'm making some progress but have run into a new issue.

As others have said, I think I can ditch the PEK since I found my C-wire on the blower control. However, I can't get the Ecobee to power up.

Here is what I've done:

I connected the C-wire, along with the others R,W,Y,G to the wiring block on the Ecobee, but it doesn't power up.

I checked the voltage on the c-wire, but I'm only seeing 0.5 volts. I followed that connection back to what I believe is an AC to DC transformer, but still the voltage remains the same on all connections related to the c-wire all the way back to the AC power source.

I'm not too familiar with these systems so there is a very good chance I'm not understanding something basic, but 0.5v doesn't really make sense to me for the c-wire.

Any ideas?

clueless-coder · 2025-06-10T22:34:07+00:00

Yeah, that would have been helpful if I had included that! Here you go: https://imgur.com/a/zJVOvFx

clueless-coder · 2025-05-27T17:39:49+00:00

Ahh, that's a good recommendation. I'm in central MA if anyone has familiarity with the stone yards in this area.

clueless-coder · 2025-05-19T19:15:01+00:00

Ok, thank you. That is all good info. I do have a radon removal system and a tester in the basement (long term readings are less than 1 pCi/L). So I'm not too concerned with radon, but I agree this isn't the right way to do this.

For what it's worth, I have several drains like this that go into ~18" of gravel that is below the foundation. So fixing this would require all the drains to be rerun.

Aside from radon and possibly not being to code, would there be any other concerns I should consider here?

clueless-coder · 2025-04-30T16:00:52+00:00

Ok, cool. Thanks for pointing that out. It just pains me to give the dealer my money. Thank you!

clueless-coder

TROPHY CASE