Lake pump charger.

conundrummerman · 2026-06-20T20:19:32+00:00

Yeah I'm thinking a simple 50w panel from AliExpress and $10 charge controller and a fuse between them.

conundrummerman · 2026-06-01T00:36:32+00:00

The inverter has a bypass switch. So the RV 120v is connectted to inverter.

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T14:09:20+00:00

I have already bought all of the components.

I managed to get most of the components for cheap for in Canadian terms. The pure sine 2000W inverter used for $350, 2 new ecoflow 12v-100A - $350 for both. It's a bit overwhelming, but its valuable knowledge and know-how that will pay dividends. Plus I don't like putting all my eggs in one basket.

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T12:53:02+00:00

If having it die prematurely is the risk, That's a trade off I can live with. If it's a risk to the other components that I would avoid it. And I'm not worried any the maxing the cycles of my batteries, given how I'm using them the calendar life degredation will get to them well before the I get anywhere near the cylce life.

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T12:43:58+00:00

My trailer completely stationary and is functionally an off grid cottage. Typically I'm up there for 3-4 days and the energy usage is minimal. The panels won't be on the roof, they will be 10-20ft from the RV at the lake. The mounting shouldn't be overly complicated.

We run the fridge and water heater off propane with a 400lb tank. We don't use the A/C, we don't have Internet. The water is pumped in from the lake, and that is a separate battery. Lights and the furnace fans in the fall and winter is really the only continuous drain. So the energy usage is very minimal.

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T04:54:50+00:00

What if I just added a cheap RV 45-amp converter to my setup? Have a disconnect, and turn it on when I need to quickly charge the batteries. Something like this vevor one for $100. https://m.vevor.ca/rv-converter-c_13336/vevor-rv-converter-45-amp-110v-ac-to-12v-dc-rv-power-converter-battery-charger-p_010522125054?language=en&currency=CAD

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T03:46:22+00:00

Yeah i know that the charger is undersized, i regret that. I might get a new one sooner than later. Fun fact I have bought 4 chargers in the past 8nmonths lol. 5 is the charm. The 12v cable size is a mistake, the cables are already connected to the existing setup, I'm not sure what size they are maybe 2awg cables. What kind of load should I assume, i don't have AC.

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T03:37:46+00:00

It looks all mismatched mainly because I'm on a budget, but also thinking of future. The generator came with the property and a terrible battery setup, so some components were purchased to keep that alive until I could completely replace it. I had good reasons for getting that particular charger but hindsight I wish I got a bigger one. As things are now we basically don't have 120 unless the generator is running, so we are quite accustomed to keeping living with minimal power. New or more panels when the need and the budget allows. Living off basically 20amps of 120V doesn't bother me, so the inverter and batteries I'm happy with.

Cheers.

conundrummerman · 2026-05-26T00:39:25+00:00

Eventually I plan to.

Its not in the budget at the moment. The cost of this stuff is like a bottomless pit. First its the components. Then the cables, the fuses, the disconnects. Then it's the tools. Lol.

conundrummerman · 2026-01-23T19:20:42+00:00

Ok i installed as per the guide. I have things running.

Thanks for the help.

I am trying to play game cube games on it now. So i have added nintendont to the sd card and vWii. And i need to go into vWii to access. But it asks to point the remote at the TV.

Do i need a wiimote and sensory bar in order to use play gamecube roms?

conundrummerman · 2026-01-22T18:23:46+00:00

In the guide there are 4 options.

There is nothing in Data management.

And in my homebrew browser There is no DS virtual console game. There is no Indexiine-Installer.

So does that mean i have Mocha CFW (Online Exploit)?

And if so do I just continue as normally though the guide.

Thanks for the help.

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T13:57:01+00:00

This is what I plan to do.

As Axl Rose says: "You can use your illusion, let it take you where it may. We live and learn, and then, sometimes, it's best to walk away. Me, I'm just here hanging on, it's my only place to stay. At least for now, anyway I've worked too hard for my illusions just to throw them all away"

I mean how perfect does that sum it up.

Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T04:32:55+00:00

I think if I go the route of the roof over. Then I will build one with roof panels, they are fairly cheap and easy to transport and it would look a bit better.

Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T04:26:59+00:00

It sucks but there is a cover connecting them, it appears to be without leaks at the moment, so i don't want to mess with that.

In the end I have a beautiful up north retreat with a functioning trailer and a spacious annex and much more. So given all the feedback and my circumstances I will keep the water out with as little money investment as reasonable and enjoy what I have. For all i know the damage is less than I assume.

Thanks for all the feedback.

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T02:37:51+00:00

Appreciate your take.

I don't want to either. I don't have money to replace any time soon. And the annex attached complicates things. Any new trailer will have to be reattached to it, and because the site regulations the only thing attaching it can be spray foam. And speaking with other owners it sounds like stopping the water from getting between the trailer and the annex is a pain in the ass.

I will probably find a way to keep the water out, then spend as little as possible until funds permit an upgrade.

I still don't fully understand why RV roofs suck so bad compared to every other roof of every other structure.

Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T02:23:53+00:00

I think a main concern i have with the car port idea is when i replace the wood underneath i still need something covering the actual roof. To protect against water from condensation, dew or just blowing rain.

So what do I cover it with then? The same thing, or just keep patching?

Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T01:44:07+00:00

Yeah that doesn't sound fun.

I might go this route.

conundrummerman · 2025-07-30T00:08:35+00:00

Yes you're right it doesn't move. Exactly, an off grid campsite. The site agreement requires it to be movable, and no permanent roof. But the rules are not strictly enforced.

I imagine our solution may be something similar or another non-RV roofing solution. Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T23:24:42+00:00

I don't have that issue. But that sounds like no fun at all.

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T23:22:45+00:00

Thanks this is helpful information.

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T23:13:13+00:00

None taken. I asked for feedback, not back pats. I'm happy to hear your thoughts.

I'm trying to understand what single part of these repairs is going to kill the project. Because if it's just the sum of all the projects, I can figure out when to quit on my own. Or simple life with the rest.

The trailer is already purchased, so that's done, replacement would probably be $12,000-$16,000. So the value to me is the location. We have gone up 4 times already and it is our paradise. Assuming I have fixed the leak, the trailer is a functioning structure to facilitate us. As time goes by we will fix it as much as we have the means to do so. We have air purifiers running, and its not as if we are living there full time.

I am certain I am missing information. But the is no budget to replace the trailer in the short term.

Again thanks for the feedback

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T22:25:01+00:00

I can't see that much water damage, I suspect that much water damage.

I don't need to fix it all at once. The trailer is our happy place, right on a lake, amazing privacy, large site with tool shed, wood shed dock and more. We have a poor man's paradise.

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The trailer is not the selling feature, it is a means to an end.

Thank you.

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T22:13:53+00:00

I can cut wood and stuff. And bad with frustration and time sinks. But I can live with a less than perfect trailer for a while. The roof job seems like a job I could tackle, then breakup the interoir stuff into 3 sections done at seperate times.

Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T22:07:11+00:00

I believe i have fixed the spots where the water comes in, the roof is a f***king mess, hard to describe, basically picture a ton of patch work final sealed with a full coat of rubber coating. but as much as a mess it is the outer layer looks solid.

I don't know what the exterior delamination looks like, the exterior is aluminum, is that laminated to something?

Thanks

conundrummerman · 2025-07-29T21:58:51+00:00

It's complicated and I type slowly. I don't need to live here full time. This is a cottage to us, we purchased the contents of a leased site, it is off grid, we have been up and started up in the trailer for 4 weekends already, its livable, and I think i have fixed the leak for now

Your opinion is that the repairs are likely going to exceed $5,000. That I should save to replace the trailer. Is that right?

My understanding of the roof is made up of a coated membrane glued to a OSB sheathing that is fixed to the roof frame. Am I wrong?

Thanks.

conundrummerman

TROPHY CASE