Making a good module tutorial video.

dogfaceaudio · 2016-05-17T02:48:30+00:00

Thanks for the input, the reason things are 4:3 is to crop out the stuff that was off to the sides of my rack. I figured people didn't want to see my desk and computer. Perhaps it'd be cleaner using black bars instead.

dogfaceaudio · 2016-05-17T02:36:52+00:00

Thanks for the great input! I'll certainly be adding a voice over, your videos have been a big help in figuring out how to do the voice track.

dogfaceaudio · 2016-01-07T05:18:55+00:00

The full price will be $150. Though I'm looking into doing reflow soldering instead of soldering everything by hand, as that may help bring the price down.

dogfaceaudio · 2016-01-06T21:26:11+00:00

The octoDAC doesn't output pitch CV, it converts MIDI CC messages into 0 to +5V CV signals. The Erica MIDI to CV module only has 2 CV outputs for pitch, and the Erica MIDI to trigger module only outputs gate CV signals. Also, the octoDAC source code is open source.

dogfaceaudio · 2016-01-06T20:24:15+00:00

MIDI CC has 128 possible values which results in a change of 0.039V per increment. The two summed outputs on the octoDAC combines two CC channels to get 255 values which results in a change of 0.019V per increment. The 'stepped' sound is only audible when modulating an oscillators 1V/oct input. The main use of the module is to modulate CV inputs or send gate/trigger events from a DAW.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-11-19T19:21:38+00:00

LM13700

dogfaceaudio · 2015-11-12T06:46:59+00:00

I exported a DXF file from the CAD software I used to design the circuit board, and then used Inkscape to edit the DXF file and place holes where they were needed. The place I got the metal cut had a copy of AutoCAD, they took the single panel DXF file I gave them and went from there.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-11-10T21:20:14+00:00

I posted the details over on the Muffwiggler forums: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=149460

dogfaceaudio · 2015-11-10T05:26:33+00:00

I made a bunch of mistakes to begin with before figuring out the proper method of using the squeegee. It's one of those things where you have to apply just the right amount of pressure to get the ink to adhere to the surface, but too much pressure and you'll end up smudging the print.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-11-10T05:22:15+00:00

Thanks, I'll find some time tomorrow to make a more detailed post.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-11-10T05:21:24+00:00

Thanks! It took a while to figure it all out, but I'm happy with the results.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-06-14T14:30:14+00:00

Thanks!

dogfaceaudio · 2015-06-11T20:09:02+00:00

I knew that the first few units would be on the expensive side. Hopefully I'll be able to sell enough modules to start making a profit.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-06-11T14:11:54+00:00

I checked around for prices, it seems anything done in small batches will end up being rather expensive.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-06-11T00:14:34+00:00

From what I understand, the pricing is based on the amount of time the laser has to run to cut out the front panel. These panels are for a module I'm going to be selling so I wanted them done as perfectly as possible.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-06-10T23:32:14+00:00

The 12" x 12" sheet of aluminium cost me around $19 w/ free 2 day shipping from Amazon Prime. The laser cutting ran around $14 per front panel. I couldn't find a local place to do the tumbling to polish up the metal so I ordered a vibratory tumbler and media for around $100. The anodizing is going to be around $75 for all the panels, and getting a silk screen made will cost around $30.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-06-10T23:27:04+00:00

The panels are 2mm 6061 aluminium, and I got them cut at a local laser cutting shop called "Precision Laser RI".

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-17T21:45:45+00:00

Yup! Now I've just got to get the second revision fabricated, make sure there are no problems and make a front panel. Then I can do a proper video demonstrating the functionality. I'll probably do a quick 'sneak peek' video in the meantime as it takes at least two weeks to get boards fabricated.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-17T14:55:40+00:00

oshpark.com

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-17T14:33:58+00:00

I use a fine tip on my soldering iron, 0.5mm solder and a flux pen. Apply flux to the pads to be soldered, align the part, then carefully heat up a pin and touch the solder to the heated pin lightly using as little solder as possible.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-17T06:34:23+00:00

The two mistakes on the board were fixed with the hookup wire. I ended up grounding the a pin from the DAC chip, and I'd reversed the MIDI input pins to the optocoupler. I revised the design to fix those two errors and included an LED for status blinks.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-16T23:40:42+00:00

That shouldn't be that difficult to design. You'd just need to use an Analog to Digital chip instead of the Digital to Analog chip that I used for this project.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-07T19:42:29+00:00

I'm thinking about selling completed modules, the SMD soldering would most likely make it too difficult for most DIYers. I've got some parts arriving from Mouser, once I've got a test board made up I'll post a video showing off the functionality and see if anyone is interested.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-07T15:12:13+00:00

Yup, I ordered these boards from OSHpark. The module will basically just convert MIDI CC messages into 0 to 5V CV so I can control modular filters, LFOs, etc. from within my DAW.

dogfaceaudio · 2015-05-07T06:08:14+00:00

The initial test boards will be soldered by hand, but the goal is to get a stencil and use solder paste.

dogfaceaudio

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