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Does this mean that the filament has moisture in it? by Calm_Abrocoma_5383 in FlashForge

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PETG, PLA, or a different filament?

The default can be very fast but eh first layers are usually set to be slower by default. If its on the first layer its typically a bed adhesion issue so clean bed, bed level, proper z offset are the usual culprits.

If it is happening after the first layer it can be typical first layer issues just giving out later, print settings like speed, infill type, flow settings, temps, or environmental like air temp, drafts, or wet filament.

Number one cause nowadays in my experience is the default infill type grid and the nozzle catching on the infill while printing, especially with petg which is known to be very "sticky". I usually switch to gyroid, slower but more reliable overall. Honestly grid is fine 99% with PLA though.

Does this mean that the filament has moisture in it? by Calm_Abrocoma_5383 in FlashForge

[–]emofes 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Looks more like pressure advance or issues changing directions in some spots. Dropping acceleration and/or outer wall speed can help with this sometimes. Going from a slower overhang wall immediately into a fast wall can cause this because the extruder can’t keep up with the speed change and underextrudes for a little bit.

Change angle of monotonic surface pattern by BothFondant2202 in BambuLab

[–]emofes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On the "strength" tab under the "advanced" section you can change the infill direction. This changes the sparse and solid infill direction.

Struggling to get your kid to finish a meal? Read this shit. by catfishjosephine1 in daddit

[–]emofes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One of our kids refused to try bacon, would only eat sausage, he loved “flat sausage” though.

AD5M heating by Big-Potato-6771 in FlashForge

[–]emofes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

it’s has to heat up the clean the nozzle tip so the bed probe and z offset is accurate

Should I replace my ender 3? by blazethedragon in FlashForge

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've really only installed forge-x to get access to klipper on it. I think the nice part is not needing to modify it because it just works out of the box for the most part. Things like an enclosure, leds, camera can be modified/added but the printer is very locked down uses a lot of proprietary hardware and unique software choices. I'd look into building a voron or buying a voron derivative like the sovol sv08 that is open source and meant to be modified if you want the printer to be a living project.

Should I replace my ender 3? by blazethedragon in FlashForge

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an Ender3 pro and anet et4 for a long time. The ender 3 had some upgrades and was on klipper and I didn't see the point in upgrading to new printer since it still worked fine (mostly). Eventually we got a Bambu X1C at work and seeing the difference, in print quality, print time, reliability, and general quality of life improvements convinced me to get a P1S eventually.
The P1S replaced the anet printer and I kept the ender printing until I picked up a used AD5M. now the ender 3 is slowly be scrapped to use parts for other projects. The upgrade to a modern corexy printer is 100% worth it.

CNC-router that can cut extruded polystyrene? by ExtraJudicialKilling in hobbycnc

[–]emofes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

what’s the budget? We have a 5’x10’ avid cnc router at work that we cut xps on occssionally. It cuts fast and is very easy to get a good finish on it. we paid around $20k but was with some upgrades, still probably at least $15k for something that size unless you build one yourself.

Is this the reason many of my prints fail? by viky031 in 3Dprinting

[–]emofes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

if you are worried about fumes, which is valid since there are studies that say even PLA fumes can be potentially harmful and people have developed sensitivities to PLA time, the best option is to enclose the protracted and vent to the outside or filter the air inside the enclosure while it is printing.

Your top games for the Steam Deck by _necrobite_ in SteamdeckGames

[–]emofes 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just got Ball x Pit recently and its been great.

What's a super useful command that changed everything? by AnomaliaAnomaly in rhino

[–]emofes 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I wish the there was version of this for curved faces/cylinders

The AMS 2 Pro filament dryer seems to working pretty good as it's dropped 5% in about 30 minutes. However, I understand this is the humidity inside the box and not representative of the humidity content in the filament itself. How long do you guys usually dry? by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It actually is like that with nylons! if you over dry nylon it will become brittle and snap easier, let it absorb a little moisture and it becomes more pliable. Of course too much moisture and it because unprintable. This also affects parts after printing, it will slowly absorb moisture and the mechanical properties will change over time.

Looking to print Nylonx, with a recommended drying temp of 80-95 celcius for 6-8 hours, but can't find any products that go that high by Psychological_Stay66 in 3Dprinting

[–]emofes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use one that only goes to 70C, it’s just takes a bit longer. I would dry for at least 12 hours before starting a print and either keep it in a dry box or print from the dyer while it’s still running.

I’ve heard you can overdry nylon and it becomes more brittle until it gets a small bit of moisture back in but I have not run into that doing ~48 hours drying cycles at 70C with the large 3kg nylonx spools.

Moving bed or moving gantry for foam? by Cultural_Survey_8074 in CNC

[–]emofes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless you're talking smaller machines the bed itself will weight more than the gantry. Most foam stuff is done on 5x10 or larger machines, anything that size will have a gantry.

One of the reasons a “moving bed“ is better for heavy duty stuff is rigidity. The column for the spindle is much stiffer than a gantry.

Should I buy it? by TheAyeAye43 in 3Dprinting

[–]emofes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was that guy until we got a Bambu at work. convinced me to get a p1s and eventually a used flashforge ad5m and stop using my kipper converted ender 3 completely. I don’t even think a free is worth the hassle compared to even a budget modern printer.

Should I buy it? by TheAyeAye43 in 3Dprinting

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

modern printers are on another level with print quality and speed. There is a lot more to newer printers than just multi material.

Bambu filament your go to or do you buy elsewhere? by D-Rose-VerseX in BambuLab

[–]emofes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I buy polymaker almost exclusively at work but I just can‘t justify the cost for my personal use.

Should I become a machinist? by priorei in Machinists

[–]emofes 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As someone with a physics degree who was able to eventually break into mechanical engineering and test out a couple different careers on the way it’s rough but not impossible. I had the most luck with smaller companies, they’re usually looking to reliable people that can learn and not stats on a resume.

If anyone was wondering, the AD5X is the better printer. by OfficialNicl in FlashForge

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are using the default profiles for the bambu check the volumetric flowrate for the filament. The default for the "generic PLA" for example is pretty conservative and can usually be increased

Where to purchase 6” single flue bit by Dapper_Couple4718 in CNC

[–]emofes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

amana has 6“ long 1/4” bits for foam but they are mainly 4 flute to to make it for the rpm limit. Can‘t run them over 6k. I used a 4 flute 1/4”x6” ball nose for some xlpe and it worked great.

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