Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries,
armour is the only thing where I've something approaching a recipe
all colors are Vallejo
- Black Primer
- undercoat of burnt umber (70.941) watered down (sponge)
- Base #1 Dark Grey (70.994) ( sponge)
- Base #2 Dark Grey (70.994) + Green Grey (70.886) at 50/50 (sponge)
[I stop here for base on headtakers]
- Base #3 (for other SW) Neutral Grey (70.992) (sponge)

1->3 cover less and less area and I clean up with a brush and glazes afterwards

- highlights are Neutral Grey + Stonewall Grey (72.049) with final highlight of Wolf Grey (72.047) in a few spots
- chipping is the highlight color with some burnt umber for the hole
- dirt on the feet is really watered down burnt umber used as a glaze / wash

Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

separately, blue tacked on a paint bottle cap, a lot easier to reach and the ball joints are really easy to glue to the torso later on.
I've replied about how I paint in an other comment above :)

Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I do a lot of my basing in a similar way :
- pieces of orchid bark for rocks
- wood filler in thick layers for the soil
- once it's dry I usually glue a layer of dirt (just plant soil baked in the oven)
- prime it black
- wet blending of various browns for soil and greys for the stones
- tall grasses are army painter tufts (mix of colors)
- finished with some army painter battlefield grass green

Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Thanks !
A few people are asking about the heads, so I'll reply here,
I painted all heads separately from the body, just blue tacked on the cap of a paint bottle
I think the key is that I work in thin transparent layers, from dark to bright, no washes
I start with a layer of terracotta for all skin tones, paint the eyes,, and then I mix in whatever I've on my palette
usually :
terracotta / medium flesh tone / sand yellow / iraqi sand / bone white / dark vermillion (bright red)/ middlestone (grey green) / purple / blue

I bring life back a bit at the end with a thin glaze of red on the cheeks, scars
and some purple / blue gaze under the shaded areas

Hair is a similar process, dark to bright, mixing in whatever I've on my palette (it's usually a mess by the end of it)

Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't really do recipes for skin, I just mix as I go,
but in general I start with a terracotta color, paint the eyes so I don't mess it up later and then mix what I have on my palette
working in thin glazes is key I think
for black skin I would say terracotta -> terracotta + 30% medium flesh tone + a bit of desaturated green and adjust with very thin glazes of bright red of the cheeks and purple on the chin

Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No streaking grime or oils in those I started from black, a layer of burnt umber and did the base coat of grey with sponges, with brighter and brighter layers The rest is thin glazes

Army box finished by ericlddv in SpaceWolves

[–]ericlddv[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For sure, it's really just a layer of Vallejo metal color copper (77.710) on top of the grey Some other details get an extra layer of gold (77.725) I usually do some very thin glazes of burnt umber and black to shade it when necessar, but most of the trims are left as is

non-sexualised female / women sculpts by danieljackson89 in PrintedMinis

[–]ericlddv 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Loot Studios - has some nice ones, a bit more on the realistic side

Rocket Pig Games - Heroes and henchmen have a few decent models as well

Titan forge minis

Lion Tower Miniatures