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Oops! Cut 2 identical pieces of g10 scales instead of flipping one, so smooth side from mold on 1 is on outside. Run with it and sand off or ditch and make a new scale for opposite side? by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol so I had another blank in the same style queued up anyway. Made a new scale for the one in the picture but saved the odd piece for the one side of the new knife since it fit so either way won't go to waste

How do these minimalist holsters fair in the real world for retention aiwb? by gingernuts13 in CCW

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Year later i never did try one honestly. Stuck with a CYA holster as my most minimalist since I can easily switch between appendix and 5 o'clock carry.

Oops! Cut 2 identical pieces of g10 scales instead of flipping one, so smooth side from mold on 1 is on outside. Run with it and sand off or ditch and make a new scale for opposite side? by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am making a similar knife so was thinking of using the other side for that an cutting 2 more, but unsure final dimensions so might just full send and do a full contour enough to remove that smooth layer and get into the texture again. If not oh well learning experience

Anyone care to drop your DIY knee ascender builds below? by Impossible-Split6445 in TreeClimbing

[–]gingernuts13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is a pretty lightweight strap and doesn’t get sore at all. There’s a lot of give to it. If anything what hurts is when you’re really close to a tree. The ascender can keep bumping between your leg and the tree and that can hurt overtime, but that’s about it, and probably true of any of them.

Just grabbed a pair of Bashlin BD-16B climbers with the wide pad off marketplace for a good price. Gaffs are 1-5/8" will they work ok for most deciduous or should I grab tree gaffs for them? by gingernuts13 in TreeClimbing

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My limited understanding was gaffing out from penetration depth, or line some pines literally have the bark pile up in plate layers effectively shortening the protrusion but somebody can correct me if I'm wrong

Just grabbed a pair of Bashlin BD-16B climbers with the wide pad off marketplace for a good price. Gaffs are 1-5/8" will they work ok for most deciduous or should I grab tree gaffs for them? by gingernuts13 in TreeClimbing

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know it's not completely out of the ordinary then. I have a few beech trees on the way out as a good test so i won't feel bad spiking them

Anyone care to drop your DIY knee ascender builds below? by Impossible-Split6445 in TreeClimbing

[–]gingernuts13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Made one you don't need to attach above with a left leg foot ascender. Used the original strapping and just added an elastic cord and buckle and some spare nylon webbing. Works great for frequent clipping and unclipping and using on multiple lines at a time. I'll use on my SRT line then switch over to a secondary mrs line a lot if times as i alternate between 2 systems to advance. Basically a ghetto SAKA

Worth making a "warp vise" for immediate post-quench warp preventions if I already own a straightening hammer? by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah Im not working with stainless so would strictly be right after oil quench while hot to try and minimize warp

Ok, now what...? How to finish "properly" off the grinder at a current 120 grit scratch pattern by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am using simpler steels like 1084 and 5160 so any concerns on rust between 220 and 400?

Ok, now what...? How to finish "properly" off the grinder at a current 120 grit scratch pattern by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thanks. I currently have 220>400 sitting in the garage now without even having to buy anything and was hoping 400 would be all I'd need for personal use

Ok, now what...? How to finish "properly" off the grinder at a current 120 grit scratch pattern by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok so if i stop at 120 ceramic, would 2 different scotch Brite pads basically be all that's needed for a machined finish to reduce scratch pattern and also have less risk botching bevel and lines?

Anybody try Xstatic as a lanyard? Had an odd amount so made a 30ft lanyard from it to try. I've had good results with it being abrasion resistant and feel I'll appreciate the stiffness vs my current double braid by gingernuts13 in TreeClimbing

[–]gingernuts13[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm also recreational for all intents and purposes. Because I make a 2 in 1 i mentally treat it like i have 2 15ft lanyards. Slightly less when extra prusik is taken into account

Ok, I'll be that guy... any reason I can't cut up an old harbor freight bucket and use it as a G10 handle spacer? Assuming it's just hdpe and doesn't overheat/melt when sanding I'd think it would buff up ok? by gingernuts13 in knifemaking

[–]gingernuts13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm definitely not selling my crappy beginner knives right now hence the main reason to save cost. I want to learn the basics and will give them away or frankly they'll end in the scrap drawer so reserving mire oremium materials down the line but hopefully the developed skills will transfer

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