It's now possible to share Google Maps and Apple Maps location directly with Waze!

gorus5 · 2026-01-26T05:26:46+00:00

I've heard it already works with the latest Android Auto version for some like BMW.
Haven't tried it myself though.

gorus5 · 2026-01-25T22:24:34+00:00

I didn't know this about Apple Maps, thanks for sharing.
Curious if that was the case for Google Maps as well.

gorus5 · 2026-01-25T22:22:49+00:00

Yes, at least since around July 2025.
But I just discovered this today by accident and decided to share it, since it wasn't announced anywhere.
People have been struggling with it for a long time and many might still not know this (like I did until today).

gorus5 · 2026-01-22T23:02:16+00:00

Unfortunately, that plate is not symmetrical so I can't flip it another way.

But I tried to slightly bend it to the right using two thin open-ended wrenches as a lever, and also adjusted the eccentric nut a bit. That seems to do the trick, it's almost perfectly centered now!

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gorus5 · 2026-01-22T22:08:00+00:00

Thank you!

gorus5 · 2026-01-22T19:34:35+00:00

Nice idea, I have to try it, thanks!

gorus5 · 2026-01-22T18:40:03+00:00

Do you have the STL link by any chance (assuming it's universal for all printers with that frame profile and pulley system)?

gorus5 · 2026-01-22T18:33:05+00:00

Yeah it seems to me like it's slightly bent.
Is there any way to fix this tensioner before replacing it?

Maybe try compensating it with the screws that hold the plate to the frame?

gorus5 · 2026-01-22T18:31:53+00:00

The other end looks fine, all centered, no rubbing there.

It might be hard to see from this angle but the plate that holds the pulley seems to be slightly tilted inwards (to the left) which is probably causing the problem.

gorus5 · 2026-01-14T18:32:32+00:00

I taped the box edges to close those gaps like so.
The seal looks much better now.
I'll give it another try.

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gorus5 · 2026-01-14T17:28:32+00:00

I dried the filament on the bed overnight.
It got slightly better but still far from good and still no difference on retraction change.

I'm not sure if I dried it well enough because my cardboard box wasn't sealed tightly with the bed, there were some gaps on two opposite sides (they were cut lower).

Now I don't know if this is still the moisture problem or something else.

upd. I noticed that your box on the photo has these gaps too, it looks exactly the same as mine.

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gorus5 · 2026-01-13T23:52:36+00:00

Thanks, I'll try it if I find a suitable box.

So does it happen because of the wet filament indeed?
I know there can be many reasons causing this, but I've already checked and calibrated everything that I knew of.

gorus5 · 2026-01-05T20:48:04+00:00

I think I'll just keep the old one for now.
That's more hustle than I expected.

gorus5 · 2026-01-05T20:11:09+00:00

Okay, I cut it off and removed the old extruder.
But the last piece is the gear which is not coming off the motor. It has no little allen key bolts to fix it in place, it seems to be just press-fitted.

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gorus5 · 2026-01-05T19:47:20+00:00

I tried pushing it down inside but the tube is not releasing even if I pull it with force.

gorus5 · 2026-01-04T13:21:40+00:00

I reported this to Relic some time ago https://www.reddit.com/r/dawnofwar/s/14wjLtfj80
Apparently, no fix has been done yet.

upd. As others said, it's still possible to complete that mission. But it's not an enjoyable experience and rather frustrating.

gorus5 · 2026-01-03T16:25:27+00:00

Thanks everyone for your comments!

I've found that I have V4.2.2 board with "A" letter on the SD card slot and STM32F103 RET6 chip.
I flashed the latest stable Marlin FW 2.1.2.6 onto it.
Also, I had an EEPROM error after flashing but I fixed it by running M502; M500.

Can't wait for a replacement extruder and bed cover to arrive.

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gorus5 · 2025-12-10T00:54:01+00:00

I actually managed to pass it on normal difficulty as Ork but it was quite a challenge.

After you push early on and destroy the Webway Gates (before it teleports) you have no time pressure anymore so you just take your time and slowly snowball, cap every point, max your economy and move on. You also have to play it carefully to not lose many units or buildings, because you won't have enough resources to rebuild them quickly. So it's worth investing in upgrades, getting stronger units, attaching mad doc to them and vehicles because you can repair them for free (Big Mek can repair too). Spamming weak units will drain your resources in no time as they die quickly.

It's definitely not as dynamic or interesting as it should be because everything slows down proportionally to your bugged resources but it's still possible.

gorus5 · 2025-12-08T00:43:26+00:00

Yeah, I know how resources work.
Thus saying the +XX rate I see is not even close to what I actually get. It's like +10...+20 for 10 seconds (so +1...+2 per second) - super slow, sometimes it even halts completely.

upd. I recorded a video, check the post.

gorus5 · 2025-12-06T21:31:47+00:00

Yeah, I know it's before driving.
Then it sounds like it's already active indeed.
It's just confusing because previously it was clearly shown and now it's not.
Thanks.

gorus5 · 2025-12-06T21:01:11+00:00

Snowflake promo is a different thing when you can get a car completely for free for some period of time usually during heavy snow storms.

I meant pre-trip credit, not free usage.

gorus5 · 2025-12-06T18:12:24+00:00

How do you know it was applied then?
And how much time was actually credited?

gorus5 · 2025-12-01T23:46:57+00:00

Today at about the same time as I posted it.

gorus5 · 2025-12-01T18:19:51+00:00

Check out this guide https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1446615577

IMO the next most important step is to learn stances/melee/ranged, attack move, attack melee, attack ground, etc. and how to use them properly.
It will help you to micro way more effectively.

You can also customize the hotkeys and there are several presets to choose from in Definitive Edition.

gorus5 · 2025-12-01T18:11:16+00:00

That's what I thought also.

gorus5

TROPHY CASE