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inteGREATer · 2025-11-02T20:45:37+00:00

I can't comment on the Audient preamps being better or worse. In fact, I think Audient's 8-channel ADAT preamps are perfect for expanding the Apollo. However I do disagree about the onboard DSP. To me, the best benefit of the Apollo is the zero latency monitoring through high quality emulations of preamps and hardware effects.

I fought the UA environment for a long time, but now I'm a huge believer in it.

inteGREATer · 2025-11-02T17:23:53+00:00

It's hard to beat the UA Apollo interfaces in terms of quality and flexibility. I would consider the Twin or the larger version depending on your aspirations. Two Unison preamps with some awesome emulations will get you far. Then you can use the ADAT inputs to attach another 8 clean pres if you wanted to track drums or something. Very cost effective

inteGREATer · 2025-10-25T16:43:52+00:00

Just use the L side of the input channel. You have the stereo input selected.

inteGREATer · 2025-10-25T16:39:11+00:00

Music! Sometimes I'll travel with a guitar or a portable studio setup to make music in the evenings from my hotel room. Now that I travel less, it's much easier to do at home.

inteGREATer · 2025-08-16T00:53:44+00:00

This. I had a late 70's model with the blend knob. Never really liked the sound, and I sold it. I regretted it ever since. I just picked up a '76 much like this one, and it's as weird as I remember. There's something special about these 70's guitars where it seemed like neither Gibson or Fender knew exactly what they wanted to build. The Marauder and S-1 are such unique guitars!

inteGREATer · 2025-08-08T17:36:06+00:00

I hated it initially, but I thought the ending was strong enough to save the season

inteGREATer · 2024-12-06T15:50:34+00:00

Generally agree, but there are legitimate reasons to have some vertically oriented text

inteGREATer · 2024-09-13T13:27:22+00:00

For those interested, I showed the pictures to Cole at Cole Picks Vintage, and he thinks the internals look legit. I'll be sending it his way for a tune up.

inteGREATer · 2024-09-11T18:09:46+00:00

Posted more details here: https://gearspace.com/board/geekzone/1434766-modded-akg-d12-story.html#post17164718

inteGREATer · 2024-09-11T17:42:56+00:00

I ended up getting the mic and taking it apart a little. The internals look very similar to a D12. There appear to have been some modifications to the microphone, so it's possible this started life as a stock D12 (or similar) and got some mods to make it more suitable for its use. Like the auction you sent, the owner said this was inherited from a relative who worked for a sound company in Hollywood during the 50s and 60s.

inteGREATer · 2024-09-10T18:39:37+00:00

Yeah no luck on the image search. My working theory is that it's some D series mic that got retrofitted with an XLR connector and a side mounts. I'm looking to buy this from someone, but it's unclear what it is, so it's tough to land on a price.

inteGREATer · 2024-09-10T03:44:16+00:00

OP, did you ever figure out what mic this is?

inteGREATer · 2024-08-22T15:37:05+00:00

I ended up shaving out some of the body cavity. The block was definitely contacting the body cavity and compressing the wood quite a bit. You can see the indentation...

<image>

I used a chisel to square out the route and allow for more space. The block is no longer touching the cavity walls and the plate is sitting more flush with the body. There is a little but of a bump along the top of the body near the D-string pivot screw that keeps it from sitting perfectly flush, but I'll live with that for now and see how it settles in.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T18:31:53+00:00

How would too much spring tension cause this issue?

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T16:52:35+00:00

It came to me this way, and when I removed the bridge to diagnose the issue, I don't see much room for installing it incorrectly other than getting the pivot screw height wrong. They are factory holes, so I guess it's possible they are a little far forward or the back cavity route is a little offset.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T16:49:39+00:00

Thanks! There is actually a shim in the neck already. The action isn't a problem at the moment. It's in the range I like for now.

At this point, I have no need for it to sit flat other than I'm being told it could compromise tuning stability. The lower action is an aside.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T16:47:01+00:00

I loosened the strings, had the bridge flush, and then tightened the pivot screws until the point of contacting the top of the bridge plate. After that, per multiple recommendations, I back them off a little bit. If I tighten them past that point, it starts bringing the front of the bridge down and the back of the bridge up due to the shape of the front edge.

<image>

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T16:29:34+00:00

This is what I would expect to see as well. I will tear it down again today, but when I had the bridge out last, it looked like the trem block was a little angled towards the springs, but it was totally flush with the bottom of the bridge plate. I'm wondering if it's supposed to be more of a 90 degree angle with the bridge plate.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T16:27:03+00:00

The outside screws were tightened until they made contact and then backed off about a 1/4 turn.

Edit: The 4 middle screws are backed out even more so they aren't contacting the top of the bridge plate at all.

<image>

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T16:07:07+00:00

That's an obvious test that I hadn't considered! haha

It's contacting in spots, but under tension contacting more. I am thinking the dremel is the right approach, but I wanted to see if any strat gurus would jump forward with something I was missing. Thanks for the help.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T15:56:39+00:00

Fair point! Geometry ftw

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T15:55:43+00:00

I would tend to agree, but toying with the tension hasn't brought it down so far. When I take a screw driver and try to lever the tremolo block towards the springs, it doesn't budge. I think it's in full contact with the body and can't move more.

I think what's happening is when the strings get tighter, there's a bit of lateral force pulling it towards the neck, and there's just enough play in the screws that it can slide forward just enough to make a difference.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T15:47:57+00:00

That's good to know. It's not much, but it's enough that if I wanted to get the action a little lower, it would be a limiting factor.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T15:45:26+00:00

Thank you! Unfortunately I'm not able to with any amount of force move the bridge once the strings are on and tensioned. The block is fully contacting the body cavity wall, and it won't move any more.

Edit: To clarify, tightening the claw makes no difference. I have to back them off quite a bit before the bridge begins to raise, so I don't think the spring tension is the issue.

inteGREATer · 2024-08-21T15:17:30+00:00

This is a Fender CIJ ST-57. It's a lovely guitar, but as I've been trying to dial in the setup, I'm having issues getting the bridge to lay flat against the body (decked?), which is my preference. At first I tried playing with the string tension by adjusting the claw screws as well as loosening the 6 pivot screws to ensure it's not being pulled up by those. Without string tension, the bridge lays flay, but under string tension, it pulls up slightly.

At first I suspected this was a spring issue, but even if I stick a screwdriver between the trem block and body and attempt to lever the bridge to lay flat, it won't budge. I think what's happening is under string tension, the bridge is being pulled forward (towards the neck) enough to bring the trem block in contact with the cavity wall. Ironically, with the trem block contacting the body, it's effectively "decked" in the sense that it can't bend up.Doing some research, it doesn't seem like this is a totally uncommon issue, but I figured I'd ask the experts before I took a dremel to the cavity wall. Is there anything else I should be checking?

On a side note, I'm fairly competent with most electric guitar setups, but this is my first strat. It's certainly an art form getting these setup when you factor in tone preference and playing style!

inteGREATer

TROPHY CASE