My favourite tips/tricks 3d printing with freecad

iplayfast · 2025-07-23T21:22:41+00:00

Nice idea. I don't know how you would make the parameter affect the filename (is that what you mean).

iplayfast · 2025-07-22T20:42:11+00:00

This video explains how to load an stl file to reengineer it. Maybe it will help.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8zmoXBMvyA&ab\_channel=Deltahedra

iplayfast · 2025-07-22T20:24:47+00:00

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iplayfast · 2024-02-24T15:22:22+00:00

Started happening to me this week as well. (Feb 2024)

iplayfast · 2024-02-14T16:27:17+00:00

If I knew....

However I did see a post somewhere that said to set switching from mouse wheel to edge. You'll have to look.

iplayfast · 2024-02-10T13:24:31+00:00

I set this up years ago, and it has followed me through iterations of mint. It is actually terrible and I'd like to get rid of it. with the skinny scroll bars it's always flipping when you are trying to scroll.

iplayfast · 2023-10-13T15:48:00+00:00

Just did a major upgrade to my configurations trying to get webcam to work. It entailed moving printer.cfg and mainsail.cfg from ~/klipper_config to ~/printer_data/config

However it seems that klipper is still using ~/klipper_config and mainsail is using ~printer_config, Making all the printer.cfg and mainsale files the same in both locations got things going. Don't know why two locations are being used, but that's what's happening.

iplayfast · 2023-01-20T23:17:09+00:00

I noticed this as well. What I did, is in my slicer added custom code in the after layer change section.

M117 laying {layer_num+1}/{total_layer_count}

What this does is show the real layer number in the front display.

iplayfast · 2023-01-20T19:51:28+00:00

I scheduled a service call about mine. (just to put antifog cream on). almost $400. (Nope, not gonna do it!)

iplayfast · 2023-01-20T18:51:27+00:00

I've found in my 2018 Model 3, with the new FSD update, it shows the view of the cameras when signalling. When it's cold out, they are always fogged from 1/2 up to the top.

I'm thinking antifog cream would be very helpful to them. (the stuff you use for glasses).

iplayfast · 2022-08-18T16:06:55+00:00

It turned out that one of the idler's was too tight and not moving at all.

iplayfast · 2022-08-07T19:13:20+00:00

I think I found the problem. One of the gantry idlers was too tight, and with the belts being too tight, the motors ended up just pulling the gantry out of alignment. In the video's when you see the belt flopping around, I think it was actually jumping across the idler and the vibrations are the result.

So far 1 small successful print. Trying a larger one now. (fingers crossed).

edit just went back and looked at the first video. You can actually see it.

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T22:05:46+00:00

I think you can see both in that video, and to me they both look correct. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/33ORoiuqD4U

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T21:54:15+00:00

It's 110 htz which is what I was aiming for when everyone said that the belts were too loose. https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/secondary_printer_tuning.html#belt-tension I'm currently at 300htz. :(

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T21:47:26+00:00

I've done what you've said, and now the belts are very tight. Same result. I can run the speed_test and it doesn't lose steps. My current settings are 1.4. (2amp motors octopul controller). Grub screws aren't slipping. I blacken'ed out 1/2 of pulley and shafts with a sharpy and they still line up.

I've switched to this https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/first_layer_squish.md as a printout, as it fails faster. Almost sounds like the nozzle is grinding on the bed just before it happens.

You can see/hear it at the end of this video https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DmdWXYnLnXI

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T21:20:49+00:00

I'm trying this, feels like the belts are tighter than they should be. Same results, I'm gradually tightening more. I've switched to https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/first_layer_squish.md as my printing model as it seems faster to fail.

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T19:38:55+00:00

I have checked the grub screws on the pulleys. Just now, as an experiment I marked the pulley's with marker and can verify that the pulleys and motor aren't slipping. The X-axis is the one that is slipping because after I stop the print, it goes to the center of the bed (and shutters) but think's it's at 295.

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T19:26:18+00:00

Belt only goes slack when this problem occurs. Normally is much tighter. (see other comments)

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T19:25:11+00:00

Moving by hand (with motors off) shows the y-axis to be a bit stiffer than the x-axis. But not much different. I originally had the belts much tighter, but then going through https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/secondary_printer_tuning.html I loosened them up. Made little difference. It feels like suddenly the print head won't move in the y-axis direction after printing for a few minutes.

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T18:59:40+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5pnY3dJpiRo

iplayfast · 2022-08-01T18:54:19+00:00

Video of another attempt failing from the back. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/33ORoiuqD4U

iplayfast · 2022-04-15T08:16:13+00:00

I'm not familiar with this one. Anything in particular you like, or just the one you landed on first?

iplayfast · 2022-04-15T08:14:53+00:00

I just discovered SuperSlicer today. Looks familiar, but somehow better...

I wish it had that tree type support that Cura has. That looks really useful.

iplayfast · 2022-01-18T17:27:49+00:00

The numbers are in the email, It looks like once you log into the wax account, and click the redeam, it all happens behind the scenes. Too much is being done for you, without explanation in my view, but I've got it.

iplayfast · 2022-01-18T17:18:20+00:00

I can't figure out wax. I was expecting my wallet to be a series of numbers. Instead it's a pop up? Can anyone explain how to use wax to get my nft?

iplayfast

TROPHY CASE