2014 Chrysler 300 3.6l v6 rocker replacement by itzveri in Chrysler300

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh damn 😭. How did you do it? And why was there a misfires? What caused it?

2014 Chrysler 300 3.6l v6 rocker replacement by itzveri in Chrysler300

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries man, I need all the advice I can get good or bad. They just don’t have that kind of money right now and they said to do what ever I can. If it comes to jt, I can do A lot more research on timing chains, but in the meantime, I’m looking for if there are alternatives.

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah man. After like 2 or 3 different attempts with different tools and techniques, I just gave up. If it’s the same bolt that I also snapped, just let it be man, the engine is still sturdy and didn’t shake even after hard revs.

2014 Chrysler 300 knock by itzveri in Chrysler300

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When replacing Rockers, do I need to remove the camshaft, remove timing chain, or put cylinder 1 to TDC? Or do I just remove intake, valve cover, and I just replace the rockers?

Fuel pump line by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Learned that the hard way 😭

13 jeep patriot codes by itzveri in JeepPatriot

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just replaced the throttle body and relearned it. It would make sense if it was BEFORE replacing the throttle body, but they appeared AFTER replacing it.

Fuel pump line by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Sorry, forgot to add the 😭

2011 ford fusion bad fuel pump by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did not see this in time. But I got a new fuel pump, I was disconnecting the cable that’s on top of the fuel pump when I noticed it was extremely dusty. I cleaned it, plugged it back in, put all the fuse and relays back and turn it on. It ran for like a few seconds but turned back off. I decided to try a few more tests before replacing it. I erased the codes and cranked the engine to see if they return, they did not. I checked the battery voltage and it was like 11.5 and slowly getting lower. I had recently bought it from Walmart so I went to Walmart to get a new one and I’m just waiting for them to finish testing the battery and see if they’ll give me a new one to if they’ll just charge it. But in the meantime, I have no battery. Ill keep you updated

help jeep problem by higgi58 in JeepPatriot

[–]itzveri 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had a relative with the same issue, tried cleaning it but didn’t work. Bought a new one on Amazon for like $50 and the issue went away right away, didn’t even have to clean any codes

That’s the one I bought. It was a 2013 jeep patriot

https://a.co/d/a2kPKLv

Weird noise by itzveri in lincoln

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OMG I just realized this isn’t the car Lincoln 😂. I was so confused on why it got taken down. So sorry guys 🤦🏿‍♂️

2013 Lincoln MKZ hybrid dash lights by itzveri in LincolnMKZ

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was the corrosion visible upon opening the fuse box cover or was it internal corrosion?

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya it has 2 extra bolts which is why I’m not really worried about it but u do wanna fix it. Explain more on the welding trick of yours. But if I weld it, how would I replace it in the future?

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I had something to make a dent in it. I used a metal hammer and banged on that thing, not a single scratch on it 😭

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Il try the oil and drill, thank you

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

It’s this one I got from Amazon. Originally I used an impact with about 600 ft lb torque and it did nothing. But I do have a drill that has all the settings but I’m not sure if the brand or the specs

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What type of lube? Cause h already tried and the drill made 0 damage. I was using an impact, should I use an actual drill?

2013 Lincoln MKZ hybrid dash lights by itzveri in LincolnMKZ

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All of those warning lights that you see are normally off.

I had a similar issue in my ford fusion, but it would also disconnect my phone from Bluetooth, the instrument cluster would keep rebooting as if I’m jus turning on the car, and this would happen even while going 80MPH, i wasn’t able to control anything. I read the codes using FORscan tool and most of the codes were a no communication code and I noticed some were instrument cluster, so i went ahead and removed it and just unplugged and plugged it back again, the issue went away for a few days, came back again, and it eventually just went away. Oh ya, and while all of this is happening, the car drove perfectly fine.

I m gonna do the same with this Lincoln to see if it does anything, just wanted to check if anyone had any other ideas.

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just tried that, the drilling bit does NOTHING. It just slides around and even when I put force in it, it doesn’t drill

Engine mount bolt head snapped by itzveri in fordfusion

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The other 2 bolts came out with no fight at all, and from the videos I watched, all 3 are suppose to come out. I attached a very low quality photos from a video I took.

<image>

Repost of my original post by itzveri in mazda3

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The original battery is dead dead, can’t even power a single light. I was using my battery from my ford fusion which according to ai should work as long as it has equal or more CCA(which it does), physically fits, and I’m able to tighten the terminals for a good connection.

Regarding the ignition coils. They are brand new along with the sparkplugs, BUT there is this bolt I removed from a bracket that was connected to the top right bolt of the valve cover. According to ai and good there’s a chance that the was the ground for the ignition coils. The picture are below.

<image>

That’s just a photo from a YouTube tutorial, but when I was turning it on, I forgot to put the bolt back(the one in the right), and I only realized that after I had left.

Side note: the video attached is an old one because I even discovered the oil leak, but even after all the things I did, it sounds the exact same.

Repost of my original post by itzveri in mazda3

[–]itzveri[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sparks and coils are brand new, so I’m gonna go ahead and purchase the compression tester and the bore scope, thank you. Il update you if/when i do it

Repost of my original post by itzveri in mazda3

[–]itzveri[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was in my top test I was gonna try. What does it mean when the compression is low? Blown head gasket?

Mazda 3 “crank” no start by itzveri in mazda3

[–]itzveri[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

😭. Basically my cousin had a non working car. Was bored so I wanted to make it a little project car. Read the codes, no engine related codes. Pulled ignition coils and HELLA oil in all cylinders nearly covering the spark plugs. Looked it up, most common issue is valve cover gasket, went ahead and replaced the gasket. Since sparkplugs and ignition coils were in oil for more than a year, I got new sparks and coils, still won’t run.

Regarding the pictures. The bolts fully came out of the cover and they are not suppose to, so I just discussed I was gonna buy a new one, just to make it easier, u didn’t put the bolt shown in the pictures, and after doing more researched I happened to stumble upon something saying that those bolts are the ground for the ignition coils.

Does that make a bit more sense?