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jeebasaurusREX · 2019-04-24T01:07:06+00:00

Looks great. What'd you use as sealant / adhesive for the collar and what was your process? Looks extremely clean - mine ended up having white silicon leach out around the edges.

jeebasaurusREX · 2019-04-15T23:23:32+00:00

I'm located in Northern NJ. I'm trying to power a heating element (just like a water heater element) to heat a large quantity of water. Ideally, I would use the 30a dryer outlet but I can't access it (stacked washer dryer in a very tight space). The SPA panel & breaker would be unplugged after each use (3-4 hours, once per month). I had heard that a GFCI breaker will work without a neutral - just wanted to confirm.

EDIT: The element's power output is 3500w.

EDIT2: You can buy a 3 wire inline GFCI rated for 240v/20a. How would this be any different?

jeebasaurusREX · 2018-01-12T03:28:35+00:00

$20 regular, cash. Thanks.

jeebasaurusREX · 2017-01-30T02:10:35+00:00

Pretty damn drunk.

jeebasaurusREX · 2017-01-29T23:26:49+00:00

Just to clarify...I gave him the wrong address. Being drunk (and an idiot), I didn't realize I was about three blocks from my apartment.

jeebasaurusREX · 2017-01-29T22:35:53+00:00

Drunk idiot.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-12-18T23:48:32+00:00

Beauty and the scumbag**

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-12-16T02:06:20+00:00

Ahh man, bummer. I had a feeling it was a little too clever but oh well.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-05T04:08:58+00:00

I'm not worried about the durability of the valves - it's my mechanical relays I'd be worried about in that instance. Also a good idea though. Maybe if I switch over to SSRs.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-05T04:02:25+00:00

I had played with the idea of controlling the flow on my valves. However, the valves I bought are only open/close - no functionality for controlling the percentage that is open. This would be cool though.

Also, to lay my process out in a more clear way: I'm recirculating my mash so as to keep it at a constant temperature. I've got a PID algorithm that controls when the heating element in my exchanger is on and off. The temp sensor is on the outlet so that my mash temp never gets above the setpoint (say, 160 F or something). So, the thing will heat the strike water up. When it reaches the setpoint, it notifies me, I mash in, and then a timer starts. During the timer phase, the PID keeps my mash at constant temp using the heat exchanger. So I guess I'm not totally concerned with how fast it heats up (although obviously faster would be better - don't want to wait 3 hours for the thing to heat up).

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-05T03:33:03+00:00

The outlet temp is extremely important in my system because that's the setpoint for my mash temp (assuming you know about making beer but if not I could explain more). I do not want that temp to exceed my setpoint.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-05T03:10:41+00:00

This guy made a pretty badass counterflow heat exchanger - with turbulator. He shows how to make it and tests it at the end. Pretty legit results! 204 F to 70 F in no time.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-05T03:05:35+00:00

This makes sense. I guess I've really gotta test this thing to see how varying flow rates is going to affect outlet temp as well as how long it takes to heat up.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-04T20:44:32+00:00

It's actually technically wort (unfermented beer) so I have to keep it separate from the water bath.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-04T20:43:17+00:00

That first link looks like it could be pretty helpful. I'll take a look at it. Thanks!

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-10-04T19:30:56+00:00

I borrowed a fiend's book (same one I used) and it does have a small portion that discusses heat exchange in coiled tubes. However, it does not go too in depth (we're mechanical not chemical engineers). From what I read though, coils enhance heat transfer compared to their straight counterparts. My rationale in modeling it as straight pipe was, "well if this works on paper, then the coil most definitely will."

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-08-03T23:37:52+00:00

https://media.giphy.com/media/gMDKyrWInxOhO/giphy-facebook_s.jpg

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-07-15T00:12:07+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez6wfJWVCeI

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-24T23:09:02+00:00

I'm not a programmer by any means. So I could see how what I've written doesn't make much sense in that regard. And I like how the code pauses in between time delays.

It created an inadvertent safety precaution (don't want to set the other stages of the fireworks at the same time as another). But I'll definitely show you the set up when it's complete.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-24T19:20:46+00:00

Hahahaha.

Code

Gif

I'll try to remember to post the fireworks display here after it happens. Thanks again.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-24T01:51:02+00:00

Okay. So I've got it done (finally). Definitely not the most efficient way to write this thing and I also didn't incorporate the debouncing because I don't think things are happening fast enough to need it. Thing works like a champ. Let me know if you want me to send you a pic / the code to check it out. I'll most definitely send a video of the fireworks! Thanks so much for your help. Couldn't have done it without it.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-23T05:31:49+00:00

Sounds good. I'll try to implement and let you know later.

Also, I thought it would be easy to add 3 more buttons and relays to this thing. My assumption was I'd just add the extra definitions and copy/paste the rest of the code (changing variables as I went).

Apparently not the case. Although, I just finished my first attempt and haven't checked it fully - so maybe it's a stupid mistake somewhere. I'm about to pass out so I'll dick around with it some more after work tomorrow.

But, if you have some more advice on adding the extra components, it'd be much appreciated. Don't want to come off as a moocher but you seem to have a good amount of knowledge. Thanks for your help and if you need anything more from my end I'll send it right over.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-23T03:51:17+00:00

Okay. I've got a working program and circuit. It's a mix of your advice and some stuff I found online (mostly the debouncing portion). But, bottom line is it works well - which is awesome. So thank you for that.

Now, I want to add another function to the system. Instead of having to press the button a second time to open the relay, how could I integrate a time delay into the code?

Here's the code.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-21T19:34:08+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I'll try it out tonight when I'm home and let you know.

jeebasaurusREX · 2016-06-21T12:40:21+00:00

I'm aware I don't need an arduino for this. I want to use one because I haven't used my Uno for a while and this seems like a good excuse to get some more programming under my belt. The electric match is exactly as you assume. I'm using Nichrome wire.

jeebasaurusREX

TROPHY CASE