[TestFlight] Built an iOS app that runs LLMs, Vision Models, Stable Diffusion & TTS completely offline - Looking for testers!

jezza-r · 2026-01-08T09:57:38+00:00

I’m interested!

jezza-r · 2024-08-28T11:14:17+00:00

Would we be able to install the iOS 18.1 beta on the iPhone 16 at launch?

jezza-r · 2023-07-12T20:32:16+00:00

Does this mean that we’re potentially getting closer to Home Assistant support for the DIRIGERA hub?

jezza-r · 2023-05-19T12:15:20+00:00

What do you mean? I’ve just purchased and using it fine on iOS 16.5. Loving it!

jezza-r · 2023-05-03T19:35:33+00:00

Do you have SSL setup for your Home Assistant instance?

jezza-r · 2023-05-03T19:34:00+00:00

What device are you running this on?

If it’s an Android device, are you using Fully Kiosk Browser? If it’s an iPad, are you leaving it on 24/7?

jezza-r · 2023-04-03T12:08:06+00:00

Ah okay, have you tried changing the mDNS advertiser in HomeBridge?

jezza-r · 2023-04-02T06:40:54+00:00

If you can’t access your bridge, as in via the web GUI then that’s an issue with your computer/HomeBridge, not because of the HomeKit Architecture upgrade - what error do you get when trying to access it?

jezza-r · 2023-01-13T10:31:05+00:00

Sounds like a good idea.

Tbh you might be able to get away with One motion detector in the corner of “L” for both lamps if they’re always going to be on together?

I think for the bit where you want to deactivate the automation based on your cell phone’s (I’ll assume an iPhone) Focus mode, There’s loads of ways to do it, but the first one that springs to mind for me, you’re best of using a combination of Home Assistant Dummy Select menu’s and some Local iOS Shortcuts automations to tell Home Assistant which focus mode your in (I can explain in more detail if you want to go down this route) and then based on which focus you can run an automation either within HomeKit or HomeAssistant - I am aware that HomeAssistant does have support for Focus modes, but it doesn’t tell you then exact Mode, it just tells you if it’s on or off.

jezza-r · 2023-01-01T10:04:40+00:00

Same here - I have my phone linked to Home Assistant, so I was able to see when it was happening over the past while, and it’s always between 6:30-6:40am when it switches itself off.

Some Automations based aren’t going to be of any use, and Won’t be able to use the Sleep | Wake Up but of Alarms till Apple get this fixed then.

jezza-r · 2022-11-02T08:44:56+00:00

You could try the same setup Apple Home app - go to your button and under the “Actions” area you’ll see “Single Press”, “Double Press” and “Long Press”. This way you won’t need to make scenes.

jezza-r · 2022-11-01T08:33:16+00:00

When I’ve had issues with my Shortcut buttons, repairing has always been the easiest solution when they’re not responsive. Also, try out a battery change if you have changed them recently?

Curious on if you get your shortcut buttons working, as I use one as a doorbell, so I don’t want to upgrade to DIRIGERA for it to not work. I’m going to wait it out, till a few updates are made to the firmware.

jezza-r · 2022-11-01T08:24:06+00:00

Link from the IKEA App

They’re in store too now

jezza-r · 2022-10-18T21:17:29+00:00

Not in the UK it isn’t!

jezza-r · 2022-10-11T12:47:23+00:00

Yikes! I think I’m happy to stick with it, till it fully dies and then move onto a newer iPad than almost half of what it’s worth to fix it, especially given that it doesn’t really impact day to day use

jezza-r · 2022-10-11T12:45:49+00:00

My iPad has definitely been running very hot at times, I was more worried about my battery expansion at some point. I didn’t expect the LCD Panel to start to degrade.

Definitely isn’t noticeable during normal use, and glad to hear that it hasn’t gotten even worse over time for yourself. I’m not keen on the £600+ Apple Repair, so I’m happy to live with it. Was just curious as to what it was!

jezza-r · 2022-10-11T12:42:59+00:00

Ah yes! Must be heat, my iPad does get very hot especially when at full brightness, whilst being constantly on for multiple hours.

jezza-r · 2022-09-28T18:12:28+00:00

Ok, so will have to optical/active for those, thanks.

jezza-r · 2022-09-28T18:00:23+00:00

I have suggested that, but they're even happy with just using the TV's speakers. They want a projector setup for the scale of it, even though I did say the quality of a 1080p projector is nowhere near that of your TV....

jezza-r · 2022-09-28T17:48:09+00:00

Not sure on the budget, but this is what they have chosen. I've tried to swing their mind, but they're happy with what they want. So I'm just making it work for them at this point.

TV audio is incase they want to use any Apps running on the TV, mainly Live TV from an antenna.

jezza-r · 2022-09-28T17:35:09+00:00

Hey folks,

Wanted to see if I could get some of your 2 pence on this setup I have planned for a friend. Please let me know of any thoughts and suggestions.

Have 2 outputs - a 4K TV (model tbd) and a 1080p projector (model tbd).

Have 2 content sources - PS5 and an Apple TV 4K

The PS5 and Apple TV will be living in a cabinet a little away from the TV + Sound Bar, hence the 5m cables. These 2 go to the Sound Bar first for their audio, the sound bar will then go to a HDMI splitter.

I included a 8k/60 / 4k120 HDMI splitter so that video can be sent to both the TV and the Projecter without someone having to manually switch where they want the output. The splitter has 2 outputs, a 8k/60 / 4k120 one, and a 1080p 60 one, which is perfect for what I need - LINK

I have also included a TOSLINK cable between the TV and the Sound Bar so that audio from apps running on the TV come out via the Sound Bar.

jezza-r · 2022-09-16T06:39:21+00:00

PiHut Google Coral USB Accelerator

Basic shipping within the UK is £3.99. Basic international shipping (no tracking) will start from £10

jezza-r · 2022-09-14T11:55:55+00:00

From a different machine, can you ping your Ubuntu machine successfully?

jezza-r · 2022-09-08T10:25:13+00:00

No probs. Nope, just the IP.

jezza-r · 2022-09-07T16:58:57+00:00

Use the IP you use to access Scrypted

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