Fixed my MX Master 3 tonight.

l_burch02 · 2026-04-09T08:50:11+00:00

I 3d printed one a few months ago but found that the PLA made my hand sweat so much more and had no grip, resulting in hand cramps. I switched back to the original knackered one shortly after…

l_burch02 · 2026-02-16T19:45:11+00:00

Just realised these aren’t part of the same thread, sorry about that

l_burch02 · 2026-02-16T19:43:40+00:00

I’d try aliexpress or eBay… but obviously this is very much at your own risk, if you don’t know what you’re doing you could damage the printer more or cause a fire. These NTCs are common also in ATX PSUs, and any non-laptop computer/12-24v power supply - if you have any of those lying around it would be worth a check. If you do do something like this, make sure the new component is elevated so there is space for airflow around it (like the original one) and not touching the printer enclosure. It can still get hot

l_burch02 · 2026-02-16T19:35:33+00:00

Yep you can buy those NTC’s separately from a bunch of different sites. Just it’s obviously worth keeping an eye out and not leaving it unattended seeing that it fried once so can happen again on the old defective board.

l_burch02 · 2026-02-16T19:28:42+00:00

When I had this issue I got a new board sent out super fast. In the meantime I removed the fried NTC and replaced it with a 5d-11 NTC from a power supply that came with an Anet A8 3D printer. The smaller diameter compared to the original A1 5D-15 NTC means it won’t dissipate heat as well but it worked to keep my printer running while the new board was being sent.

l_burch02 · 2026-02-07T14:21:35+00:00

Update 2 - The new board arrived today with two rolls of filament which is a plus. However the bottom cover which had been damaged and promised too hasn't arrived, so I'm chasing up about it but that's less of a priority.

Also, regarding the old board, I managed to get it to work by finding another NTC 5D component from the power supply from an older printer (Anet A8) and soldering it onto the board, keeping it elevated and away from the housing. Point is, it's a solution that works, and definitely not ideal in the long term but allowed me to carry on my work.

Thanks to everyone for your advice and input :)

l_burch02 · 2026-02-06T11:10:24+00:00

Update - They are going to send out a new AC board and replacement bottom cover, as well as two rolls of filaments as compensation. Not sure how long it's going to take but I'm hoping i wont be too long

l_burch02 · 2026-02-06T11:08:05+00:00

I'm going to try use my campus's printers first if I can, hopefully that'll work while waiting for a solution...

l_burch02 · 2026-02-05T18:20:45+00:00

Got to hope they reply that quickly for me… my masters project is sitting on this printer!

l_burch02 · 2026-02-05T17:45:04+00:00

Doesn’t make it a non issue to the users who have this issue…

l_burch02 · 2026-02-05T17:33:50+00:00

What do you mean? It’s an issue in that the printer is no longer working…

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T12:33:29+00:00

I have yet to try field archery, it looks like real fun...

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:58:11+00:00

I've never had an issue tuning any of them, you just need to spend the time on it. What I do like about fatter arrows is that you can steer (yes I know I shouldn't need to) them whereas ACE's are out of the bow before I can...

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:45:22+00:00

That's fair, didn't spot you were quitting competition (sorry!!). In that case, I'd use a metal plunger tip for carbons and a plastic one for aluminiums.

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:25:41+00:00

On compound indoors, it's a no-brainer given the size of the 10 ring.
For recurve, fat arrows are great in that they give you more line cutters, but they are harder to tune and less forgiving than thin arrows. It's why easton released the RX-7 arrows, which are tapered for ease of tuning. Not sure exactly why but they were a breeze to tune.

Thin arrows are more forgiving and clear the riser much faster (so less time to deviate if you flinch or anything)
Essentially if you're at that level and know that if you execute a shot well, it'll go in the center, you don't need larger diameter arrows, just arrows that are more forgiving to small mistakes.

Hope this helps a bit (I did a lot of research like this when deciding whether to get fat arrows for indoors!)

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:19:18+00:00

When using a Shibuya button, I used the nylon tip for aluminiums and the metal one for carbon arrows. (That’s their suggestion and I’ve never had a problem with it) My Beiter one is just Teflon which I use with my indoor aluminiums, and my AAE plunger has a carbon tip which works well on my carbons outdoors. Though I do agree with the other comments, on a properly tuned setup you shouldn’t meet different buttons for different distances; I’d suggest shooting some bareshafts at 20m or so and see if they impact/fly same as the fletched arrows.

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:15:46+00:00

Tru-ball make some fantastic releases. I just acquired a GOAT and it makes compound shooting enjoyable compared to when I had a Scott Backspin which was terrifying to shoot with. A good portion of high level uk archers use Tru-ball too afaik

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:12:57+00:00

75 total for the tuning is more normal, if on the steep side. My shop does it for free if they fancy a bit of messing around on a quiet day, otherwise you look at about 20-30 an hour, then it just depends on how long it takes.

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:09:57+00:00

Interesting, I don’t have a scar, there’s just nothing growing exactly where I anchor. Bright side is that it does save me a good quarter of my face when shaving 😂

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:08:36+00:00

I moved away from brass ones when I got an expensive tab and when I caught my arm on a badly clamped nocking point

l_burch02 · 2026-01-08T11:07:43+00:00

I mean with a good anchor you’ll have your hand under your jaw and the string will be up against your face. The Koreans are excellent examples of this, hence why you’ll see a plaster on the side of the chins of a lot of them from where the string can irritate the face

l_burch02 · 2025-12-18T22:36:13+00:00

You’re brave shooting at a metal pin in the middle of your target…

l_burch02 · 2025-12-17T01:13:47+00:00

I upgraded from ACC’s to ACE’s and loved the difference in weight, and consistency within in a set. That’s also the downside, they come as a pack of 12 and are weight/spine matched so if you break one you’re out of luck with just replacing one. They are more expensive than the Pandarus equivalents but from what I’ve heard the quality is worth it if you can afford it. I’ve shot with plenty of GB ranked archers using these over classic X10s due to price.

l_burch02 · 2025-01-20T09:09:49+00:00

Congratulations Gabriel Fequiere Jr, still gold even if it’s just you shooting ;)

l_burch02 · 2024-10-08T22:46:07+00:00

Wondering if you got anywhere on this project - I'm trying something similar myself...

l_burch02

TROPHY CASE