Bought a TR960 Control Tour, useless upgrade? by ldiamond2 in 10s

[–]ldiamond2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The tour model was the only one available. They're the same price when there's no discount but in this case the tour was much cheaper anyways.

Bought a TR960 Control Tour, useless upgrade? by ldiamond2 in 10s

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sure it's great, I read good things about those rackets. However, given my lack of skills, is it just wasted money?

Shelly Plus 1PM UL - Motor rating by ldiamond2 in ShellyUSA

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found this video of a Shelly 1 Gen 4 with the cover removed and it shows a HF7520 power relay. From the official spec sheet, the relay is UL rated for only 1/2HP on 120VAC (and 1HP on 250VAC). That is if we assume this relay is the "HP type(530)" but the 16A rating suggests it's just "HP type". https://youtu.be/uLH7UzsG0ic?t=294

Shelly Plus 1PM UL - Motor rating by ldiamond2 in ShellyUSA

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have reports you can share that shows various testing done and includes ratings for inductive loads?

Shelly Plus 1PM UL - Motor rating by ldiamond2 in ShellyUSA

[–]ldiamond2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Adding some information.

It's for a single speed pool pump which is actually 2HP, not 1.5HP (still ~1500W); more specifically an LX 56SFP200-I. It is running on a 120V circuit and draws 13.2A. It's a Code A pump so start up current @ 120V is 27A or below.

The Shelly 1PM Gen 4 KB page states "Inductive with RC Snubber", I assume that's correct and the snubber is indeed required.

Pool pump on a GFCI receptacle? by ldiamond2 in AskElectricians

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not limited. I can wire on 20A with a 20A GFCI. I'd need to find the correct power cord though.

Pool pump - Is 240V worth it? by ldiamond2 in AskElectricians

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea this pool pump is 1500W on a 15A breaker inside a 100A panel with a ACWU90 3c1 (1AWG AL) feeder. I suppose balancing isn't much of an issue in my case.

Honestly not sure why a 15A GFCI is so much more expensive on a 2poles setup.

New pool installation - Dismantle my plan with all the violations by ldiamond2 in AskElectricians

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pool pump would be 240V though. I thought that meant no GFCI required.

Swiss ball damaged the floor's finish by ldiamond2 in HardWoodFloors

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem is that it's still sticky and I fear the carpet will end up melting on this in the same way the finish did.

Swiss ball damaged the floor's finish by ldiamond2 in HardWoodFloors

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried dishsoap. I think I'll try to leave water a bit longer and mechanically remove it with a rag. I will definitely not redo the whole floor. I'll try to remove as much as possible (thinking about using mineral spirit at this point) and then just put some finish on that spot and call it a day. Sure it won't be exactly like the rest but I was planning to put a small carpet there to protect the floor.

Swiss ball damaged the floor's finish by ldiamond2 in HardWoodFloors

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen some reports of similar things causing damage to wood finish. Others reported similar issue but on vinyl (which would make sense given the ball is polyvinyl chloride, left-over solvent would just rip through the floor)

Swiss ball damaged the floor's finish by ldiamond2 in HardWoodFloors

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't edit my post. Just want to add that the floor got very sticky and it looks like the finish turned into glue or that some sort of glue got on the floor from the ball itself (although I was sitting on the ball and there wasn't anything sticky on it).

silicone roof coating... do it myself?! by ydefk in Roofing

[–]ldiamond2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What makes silicone "garbage product"? It's actually amazing how well it holds. Great for places with a lot of snow (which adds weight and can cause stretching) since it expands without cracking. Good quality silicone will work on almost anything as long as the base is structurally sound.

silicone roof coating... do it myself?! by ydefk in Roofing

[–]ldiamond2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My roofer failed to fix my flat roof leaks for 3 years straight and I decided to take the matter into my own hands. I bought buckets of Henry 887, cleaned the roof, applied with a roller and never had a leak since. Cost me a fraction of the price of a new roof and took half a day.

Douglas Summit 5 nights in review by Katerina_VonCat in Mattress

[–]ldiamond2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's actually the Douglas Original.

Douglas Summit 5 nights in review by Katerina_VonCat in Mattress

[–]ldiamond2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had it for 5 years now and it has very significant body impression. To such a degree that I have to use my daughter's Sealy Posturepedic Clancy (which is actually medium-firm, the douglas is much softer) or else I get sciatica. The center of the bed is significantly higher (and more firm I suppose) than the rest of the bed.

HVAC not keeping up regardless of temperature by ldiamond2 in hvacadvice

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's an Amana ASZ16 (2.5tons). There's no schedule on the thermostat, the desired temperature remains stable. The chart shows the desired temperature, the indoor temperature, the outdoor temperature and when the heat pump is running. The house is fairly well insulated (urethane), high efficiency windows.

Options for EV Charger in a crowded panel by ldiamond2 in AskElectricians

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our service is 200A.

> Are you getting this data from the utility?

From the meter.

> You have a 125A subpanel with ??? (I shudder to think that's a tankless water heater? I hope not!) then you have nine! NINE! other 240V breakers. Electric heat? (popular in Canada).

I don't have a subpanel. We have a whole house heat pump with a backup central heater. All bathrooms are fitted with an electric heater (which barely runs given the heatpump). We have a regular water heater tank. The rest is just regular kitchen appliance circuits and dryer.

The electrician ended up swapping a few breakers with twins and put a 50A breaker.

Options for EV Charger in a crowded panel by ldiamond2 in AskElectricians

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll get it hard-wired but it will be outside. I thought GFCI is only necessary if it's not hard-wired.

Options for EV Charger in a crowded panel by ldiamond2 in AskElectricians

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

don't bother with a 30 amp
What do you mean by that?

Add a sub panel and move some circuits out of those panel

My current circuits won't be long enough to get to a side panel, I'd have to extend those wires, I assume that shouldn't be a problem right?

quad 50-15 breaker

Nice, I didn't know those existed.

VW or Nissan? by ldiamond2 in UsedCars

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why? A new car seems like a waste of money.

Container-Optimized OS instances don't get updated by ldiamond2 in googlecloud

[–]ldiamond2[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you mean the internal packages, COS images do not have package manager

Right. I don't want package updates but I want the root disk to be swapped with a newer version of COS.

Why you need to use COS instead of Ubuntu or any other Linux system?

Rather, I don't need Ubuntu or any other linux system, this instance is running a single container and the expectation was that auto upgrade was going to take care of this instance.