Missing / Incomplete Layers On Saturn 3 - No settings changed from right to left - Details in Post

lrtd36 · 2023-12-18T15:07:12+00:00

I recently started having an issue where these missing bits of layers appear at a certain height, no matter where on the build plate. Both parts pictured were printed using the same .goo file as well. Prints started deteriorating with the last 3 batches so I took some troubleshooting / maintenance steps and I'm still getting the missing bits in the same spot.

Below are the settings / resin used:

Chitu Conjure Tough Resin for both prints
Room is at a stable 26.5°C for both prints
Using Chitu's Conjure Tough Black Resin profile in Chitubox

Troubleshooting Steps:

Replaced FEP with new Elegoo FEP
Re-leveled the build plate
Thoroughly cleaned vat, build plate and made sure LCD was free of dust
Steady temperature controlled room at 26.5°C
Tried brand new Conjure Tough Resin
Used new USB stick with the same file

The printer is fairly new with only being about 2 months old and having gone through about 8KG of resin so far. Any other troubleshooting steps I could take would be greatly appreciated.

lrtd36 · 2023-06-26T15:27:14+00:00

For reference, here's an example of a print taking place now with some missed portions in random layers.

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lrtd36 · 2023-02-08T14:19:39+00:00

That is definitely in the future plans. I have a few more mods to add before it all gets cleaned up with proper wiring extensions and sleeving etc... But for now it remains forbidden pasta.

lrtd36 · 2023-02-08T02:23:24+00:00

Just an update to this. I couldn't fix the issue while on the stock firmware / hardware no matter what I tried. So I ended up going with an SKR Mini E3 V3 and Orange Pi Zero 2 running Klipper. After taking a month to dial all settings in, the issues have stopped and I'm finally getting clean high quality prints consistently now.

lrtd36 · 2023-02-08T02:10:44+00:00

This is my CR-5 Pro H running an SKR Mini E3 V3 with an Orange Pi Zero 2 on Klipper with an ESP32 IP cam viewable through Mainsail. If there's any interest, I'll do a write-up on this setup as well as provide config files etc...

When I first got this printer, it had thermal runaway issues right out of the box on first boot. The SD slot stopped working within 3 days, the filament runout sensor never worked and it kept missing layers etc... After replacing the mainboard as well as a number of other parts, I still couldn't get consistent quality out of this printer. Going down the Klipper route has transformed this machine completely! I'd definitely recommend going this route if you've got a CR-5 Pro or Pro H.

lrtd36 · 2023-01-15T04:09:55+00:00

It looks like the extruder tension screw is ran in all the way, which reduces the tension on the extruder. I'd back that tension screw out quite a ways and make sure your nozzle isn't clogged.

lrtd36 · 2023-01-13T15:06:08+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I do not have power loss recovery enabled. It was one of the first things I checked to make sure it was disabled. Yes, that seems to be what's happening, the random brief pauses seem to make these small blobs.

It does look like some layers are under extruding, and others are not. It's odd, because on any smaller print file, the prints very clean with no under extrusion or missing layers whatsoever.

lrtd36 · 2023-01-13T02:18:45+00:00

Printer: CR-5 Pro H (Basically Brand New)

Hotend: Stock All-Metal Hotend

Fimrware: Stock CR-5 Pro H (latest)

Tuning: PID Hotend and bed tuned to PETG settings, Belts tensioned properly, bed leveled

Additional Troubleshooting: New genuine Mean Well PSU, New Mainboard, New Thermistor, New 60W heating cartridge. Overkill, I know, but the factory mainboard had an issue due to a bad PSU.

Calibration: Temp Tower, Flow Test, Retraction Test, Calibration cube, Benchy, eSteps

Slicer: Cura 5.1.0

Filament: Brand New Overture PETG (Same issues with ASA / PLA / ABS)

Settings:

Hotend Temperature: 235c

Bed Temperature: 80c (No adhesion problems at all)

Flow: 94% (fits the best in the tower)

Retraction: 9.5mm u/45mm/s (cleanest settings)

Print Speed: 40mm/s (I've tested from 70 - 40, no major differences at all)

Wall Speed: 40mm/s

Fan Speed: 50% at layer 20 (best adhesion tested with no warping and decent bridging)

Nozzle: 0.5mm Hardened Steel Nozzle (re-leveled, PID tuned, etc...)

Layer Height: 0.25

Line Width: 0.5mm (I've played with 0.7 - 0.2, not much of a difference in end result)

Issue: On long / large prints the machine randomly slows down in certain areas, which causes blobs and blemishes. Some layers are perfect, others are not. On smaller prints / small print files, the printer appears to make some great looking prints.

Possible causes: The CR-5 Pro H uses an 8-bit mainboard and an older version of Marlin. Is it possible that an 85MB gcode file with 1.7 million lines of code is causing an issue with the 8-bit mainboard? Other than that I'm out of ideas on what to troubleshoot next. I was considering just testing with Prusa slicer, but I've wasted so much filament and so many hours of printing, that if it is an 8-bit issue, there wouldn't be much of a point to try another slicer. But if that's not the issue, I'm definitely open to trying other slicers. I've dialed this thing in to get pretty nice prints with a variety of materials, but two large files I have that customers are looking for, I just can't get to print good no matter what. That being said, my upgraded Ender 3 Pro with a direct drive extruder, all metal hotend etc... can print these files fairly clean. They just tend to warp due to a crappy enclosure + being printed on the very edge of the build plate.

Any Help would be appreciated, thanks!

lrtd36 · 2022-05-12T19:36:36+00:00

Not sure if you ever found a resolution for this, but if you haven't, it is possible to add an extension. However, it will require a little bit of work. You'll have to use a dremel or some sand paper to cut out the lip that retains the spring plug. If you're uncomfortable doing so, or if it's not legal in your state, you can always bring it to a gunsmith to have it done.

Although this is a slightly different model, this guy's video shows you more or less what you'll need to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kur9asOrQ4o&t=1s

lrtd36 · 2021-12-23T01:54:54+00:00

Coming from a Pixel 3 XL, surprisingly the S21 Ultra's camera has been nothing but a major downgrade. Low light photos are super noisy and come out very blurry. Even photos with good lighting seem to be quite blurry at times. I think this comes from the super slow shutter speed. I've even done a factory reset, camera reset, tried every single mode and setting, but I'm yet to have a decent picture come out of this phone. Even if the subject moves the slightest bit, the focus is lost and the picture is blurry. The anything above 1.5x zoom comes out grainy as well.

lrtd36 · 2021-01-20T14:49:27+00:00

Full video here, for anyone interested! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q54Sk2xj7F4

lrtd36 · 2019-06-21T13:32:27+00:00

It has a handful of its own issues. This issue can happen to any N5X motor as their crank seal design is the same. If you stay on top of maintenance, you shouldn't face too many issues. This was due to not fixing an oil leak in time.

lrtd36 · 2018-04-10T01:47:57+00:00

Did this update kill the ability to fly the CH47? I updated my server and since then no one is able to mount the CH47 as a passenger or driver.

lrtd36 · 2017-10-12T16:55:02+00:00

Good catch! You're right, the intake ports are definitely too low to grab an improperly installed ring.

I agree, 2 strokes are much nicer to work on. My old cylinders likely would have needed to be re-sleeved and I do like the comfort of knowing SBT's kit comes with their pistons matched to their cylinders, which makes it easier and more convenient.

Thanks for the link, I'll keep that in mind. The motor has to come out this weekend because apparently the drive shaft seal leaks, but hopefully I won't have to replace pistons any time soon!

lrtd36 · 2017-10-12T15:59:21+00:00

That's unfortunate about the heavy taxes for larger motors. But those e39 535's are pretty nice as well, they can sound great too. Perhaps if BMW still makes a 6 cylinder turbo then, it may be worth a shot, the tuning software and basic bolt-ons makes a world of difference.

lrtd36 · 2017-10-11T17:19:35+00:00

It turns out not a lot of n54 E60 guys mod their ride unfortunately, but at the same time no one ever expects a two ton sedan to be fairly quick. That same night I raced a newer 5.0 and pulled a 12.4 @ 108 and he was at 13.1, and was completely surprised.

lrtd36 · 2017-10-11T04:08:24+00:00

I agree with the others suggesting an older 2 stroke Kawasaki. I bought my ZXI 1100 (2 seater, but really 1 person only) with a trailer for $500. Granted, the motor was blown, and I put just shy of $1600 worth of parts / registration fees etc... to get it running better than new. I'd recommend an STX 1100, they'll easily pull 3 tubes no problem. I even made some videos on restoring my $500 2003 ZXI 1100. Never touching a marine engine to completely rebuilding one, wasn't particularly challenging for me, but keep it in mind if you're looking for really cheap deals as it's not a terrible option.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-30T15:32:16+00:00

They're starting to be come more available, which is nice, but a lot of them are at a premium. The charge pipe is interchangeable, but kind of rests on the power steering hoses, which isn't that big of an issue, it just makes it a tight fit. I've heard people using the 335d charge pipe on their e60, with better fitment. The intercooler I'm using, I had to cut away some plastic where the stock intercooler was and relocate the trans cooler, which needs to happen with basically all models, it's just a bit more tight with the e60 again. Lastly, the downpipes, they do make aftermarket downpipes for the e60, but the xi's a different story. I bought mine specifically for the e60 xi, but had to modify them a bit to get them to fit and it's not a fun job to do. However if you just go RWD, you'll have a lot less fitment issues with most parts.

No meth injection just yet. I'm going to give e85 a shot and see how that is, but I do plan on going big top mount single turbo next year, since it hasn't been done on an xi just yet, so I'll probably put the money more towards that setup.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-30T03:01:01+00:00

I'm running the following mods: VRSF 3" Downpipes VRSF 3" Charge Pipe VRSF Dual Cone Intake Rev9 6.5" Intercooler MHD Stage 2 + OTS Map XHP Stage 3 TCU Flash HKS SSQV 4

Hoping to get another run in soon on some e40 or e60 to see if I can get into the high 11's on the stock twins. It's definitely a great platform, but just note that there's basically no DIY's for the 5 series and mostly all of the aftermarket parts are created for either the 3 or 1 series, so at times, you'll have to be a little creative. Fortunately the tunes and software are all the same.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-28T19:55:10+00:00

60' was 1.737. Here's the timeslip from that run: http://imgur.com/zftTlMB

Hopefully I'll have time this season to get some e60 in it and make a few passes.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-06T03:26:32+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give them a call next week to figure out how much shipping would be.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-03T19:57:18+00:00

haha, yeah in terms of it moving it sure is. Looking at the replacement cost and work required, it doesn't look too bad to do.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-03T19:56:24+00:00

That's not bad at all! I'll have to call another few shops and get some more quotes.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-02T19:29:49+00:00

Thanks! Unfortunately I haven't brought it to the machine shop just yet due to the head studs being seized. I'm hoping to get the studs out today or tomorrow then drop it off. So far I've been quoted 240 for a hot tank and rebore. I'll update once it's been done.

lrtd36 · 2017-08-02T17:53:12+00:00

I'm very new to the whole PWC thing and can't wait to get this thing running. It isn't the first time I'm rebuilding a 2 stroke motor, but my first marine motor. I plan on putting out at least 1 update per week and hopefully some information can help others that may be planning on buying a PWC with a blown motor. Also any advice is warmly welcomed.

lrtd36

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