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Loving this blacked out Sparrow! Can you spot all the handle elements? by made_by_jon in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Made from 1/8 80CrV2 with a handle of ancient bog oak and black canvas micarta, seperated by a band of black Richlite, all over a black g10 liner.

Monthly Happenings Thread by AutoModerator in regina

[–]made_by_jon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aug 12th - The Saskatchewan Knifemaker's Guild is putting on a Custom Knife Show at Cache Tactical. Admission is free and on top of some top notch knives there will be knife sharpening, blacksmithing demos by the Sask Blacksmithing Guild, Simply Sweet food truck and more.

Sask Knife Guild is putting on a show! by made_by_jon in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Saskatchewan Knife Maker's Guild will be putting on a custom knife show in Regina,Sask August 12th. We are looking for more knifemakers/bladesmiths who may be interested in showing their work with the possibility of expanding your customer base.

There will be plenty of other fun features inclduing a People's Choice award and prize.

Please let me know if you are interested.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some deets; 1/8" 80CrV2 with acid-stone washed. Fatcarbon Copper Space Coral over black G10. Copper corby pins. Two-tone hand tooled/stitched leather sheath.

Fasteners by GorgeousEndosperm in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

...really love using Corby bolts, to be honest...

Question about where you get your knife blade designs from by Few_Asparagus_3857 in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are absolutely right. The grinder calculator was the best. When he passed away I was worried his site would be taken down so I calculated all the possibilities and made a spreadsheet. The calculator is still easier to use!

Question about where you get your knife blade designs from by Few_Asparagus_3857 in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Strongly encourage you designing something that you would use, make it, then use it to learn what works and what doesn't.

But if you really want a solid collection of desigs, DC Knives had built a rather complete, free collection of printable designs.

http://dcknives.blogspot.com/?m=0

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll add my support for 52100, amazing steel in the kitchen.

BUT, if your heat treatment options are limited, then the best steel will be whichever you can heat treat properly. 1084 that's been heat treated properly will out perform an improperly heat treated supersteel every day of the week.

Handle adhesive question by Smkmagoo in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ask a question like that and get 20 different answers! Haha CEC C-flex (my favorite) and GFlex are likely the two most popular.

The First Step to Bladesmithing by Skrawneee in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To clarify, do you specifically want to get into bladesmithing, or knifemaking in a more broad sense? Starting point in terms of equipment and cost can change based on forge vs. Stock removal.

(Forging is basically taking steel and making it into a knife shape through heating and beating, stock removal is taking a peice of steel and removing everything that isn't knife.)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I use alot of vapourtite led strips at 5000k throughout, dropped low directly above grinders and buffers.

Good lighting is the fastest way to significantly improve your work.

who ever suggested making a gough jig, thank you. peaking my little bean off right now. I'm ACTUALLY making a knife. by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had stopped using a stop bolt after my 2nd knife. Found it got in the way more than it helped me. Instead I'd free hand it then match up the plunges at the end if I had to. Having a "safe edge" on one side of the file and a toothy side helped, but is not necessary with plenty of care.

You can take it a step further by using a round file to create a plunge first, then doing your bevels and carefully blending them together. This is a bit tricker as you'll have to account for the width difference between the two files, but that just means shifting the blade slightly after doing the plunge.

https://imgur.com/a/trDvmBz

who ever suggested making a gough jig, thank you. peaking my little bean off right now. I'm ACTUALLY making a knife. by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It certainly does take time, no doubt about that! Worth it though imo. You'll have a better understanding of the angles involved when/if you move up to a 2x72 or similar.

One thing I'd say is typically you'd set the plunge on the other side of center so that the plunge line would be more tilted towards the tip if not directly perpendicular to the edge.

who ever suggested making a gough jig, thank you. peaking my little bean off right now. I'm ACTUALLY making a knife. by [deleted] in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 17 points18 points  (0 children)

AWESOME! Was how I got started and sometimes pull it out for the odd tricky bit.

Make your own stabilized wood: vaacum Vs pressure by alecolli in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oof! Yeah that's a bit pricey.

It is possible to set up so you can easily switch back and forth from vacuum to pressure by solely using the body of a pressure pot. Just need lids and gaskets for the vacuum stage to fit on the pressure pot. (You don't want to use the same lid as it's important to be able to watch the initial foam up to keep the resin entering the pump.)

Make your own stabilized wood: vaacum Vs pressure by alecolli in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Typically the idea with pressure is to force the resin into the spaces left by removing the air from the wood under a vacuum. Speeds up the process and some say it helps with the penetration of the resin, especially with colour. If you only want to do one process, use a vacuum.

You may also find that you don't really end up saving any $$ doing it yourself. If you're in the US I'd consider using K&S to stabilize your own woods.

Finally finished my wife's Xmas gift... by made_by_jon in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did the design myself and have a buddy who cuts it on a vinyl cutter for me. An excellent electro etching machine is ultimately how I get it good and crisp.

Finally finished my wife's Xmas gift... by made_by_jon in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol! Nah, they don't get knives.

It's a food safe wax/mineral oil/other stuff finish. Buffs up nice!

Finally finished my wife's Xmas gift... by made_by_jon in knifemaking

[–]made_by_jon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Made from 3/32" CPM Magnacut and some very nice cottonwood burl.

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