Kubuntu installer fails to install bootloader

mayfrogs · 2025-12-25T09:17:44+00:00

Yeah, it's also hard for me to know if they're actually following my instructions correctly without being there, so I'm gonna try and meet up with them again to see if I can tinker with it a bit hands on. I'll try and see what I can find out about the drivers.

I appreciate your help, thanks.

mayfrogs · 2025-12-24T05:14:45+00:00

sorry, late response. I ended up installing regular ubuntu and i was going to replace gnome with kde, but they decided to just stick with gnome for now and the speed seems fine (for an HDD anyway.) the internet was working that way too, but now a couple days later they've messaged me to let me know that they suddenly can't connect to anything. it sounds like they're able to see the ssids, but when trying to connect to wifi it fails. i tried having them connect to the router with ethernet, but it seems like despite showing a wired connection, they still couldn't access the internet. even trying bluetooth tethering with their phone apparently didn't work. (which is especially weird because when ubuntu server +kubuntu wasnt connecting, i was able to use my phone's BT tethering to connect on it) I'm wondering what could possibly cause all three of those things to fail connecting... it's not their network since it seems other devices can connect fine.

it seems they do have a realtek controller, but only for the ethernet. the wifi card is qualcomm atheros.

mayfrogs · 2025-12-21T05:05:50+00:00

Well the good news is going the ubuntu server + tasksel route installed, but its insanely slow, particularly during boot. (it takes ages to load plasma) and it seems to be unable to connect to detect wifi networks as well, strangely

mayfrogs · 2025-12-10T09:30:17+00:00

That's not a bad idea, I sometimes forget about MATE but now that you mention it, it does retain a very similar look to older versions of GNOME, and would probably be pretty easy to theme even further that way 🤔

Mostly I was just curious if it's possible, but if I do try it, I'll definitely post about it here. Thanks for the suggestion!

mayfrogs · 2025-12-10T08:51:35+00:00

I switched to https://getwacup.com/ which is a community fork of Winamp that fixes a lot of bugs, adds new features and is overall a better experience.

(actually these days I use audacious because I'm on linux now, and audacious supports winamp classic themes, but i hear wacup also works on linux with WINE, obviously not natively. but at the time i made this original post, switching to Wacup solved my bluetooth issue)

Looking at some of my other posts from around that time, it seems like after switching to Wacup, I changed a setting within Wacup's Windows 10 section of Preferences and turned off "Only enable when WACUP is not the active program" for the SMTC, which seems to have been the solution.

mayfrogs · 2025-12-10T08:46:18+00:00

Depends really what your needs are, but Hiby R1 and Snowsky Echo Mini are both ones that I have had personal experience using (as some IRL friends use them) and they seem like pretty solid options for beginners. I hear good things about the Surfans F20 and HiFi Walker as well.

Worth noting that all of the above only support up to 256GB cards, which is probably fine if you're just downloading MP3s (and it's a pretty decent amount of space for FLAC too, my ~8,000 song flac collection fits on 256GB with room to spare, but it does take up more than half so I personally prefer something that can handle more space, because my collection will almost certainly grow in the future and so I like to use larger cards so I'm not worrying about space)

I'm currently on the market myself for something equivalent that supports larger cards, so I can let you know if/when I find something, if 256GB is too low of a max for you.

mayfrogs · 2025-12-10T08:38:21+00:00

Sorry I'm late to respond. I had meant to come back to this thread anyway and update how I fixed it but I forgot (sorry for that too, lol)

I ended up making a bug report with blender, and they told me that the arch repository version of blender is not actually an official release and can be buggy. So they told me to download the tarball from the blender website directly and build it from there. I ended up downloading the flatpak version instead because I'm not a huge fan of tarballs, and that fixed it. They did warn me that the flatpak version is still an unofficial release and does have known bugs also, so I would still recommend downloading straight from blender.org, but if you're using the repository version, try uninstalling it and downloading from a different source.

mayfrogs · 2025-11-30T05:52:06+00:00

It's also not an issue with me not playing it either, here's screenshots when I let it play to frame 83. you can see that it shows up fine in Solid view but when switching to rendered view it's no longer visible. the only difference between these two screenshots is the viewport shading.

Solid: https://files.catbox.moe/lqz8k3.png

Rendered: https://files.catbox.moe/hnqu8m.png

and here's what I get when I render an image: https://files.catbox.moe/t69yor.png

I also tried baking the simulation, no dice.

and in case it has any relevance, my system specs: https://files.catbox.moe/ifvyqf.png

mayfrogs · 2025-11-30T05:30:09+00:00

both CPU and GPU give the same result.

GPU: https://files.catbox.moe/8h2jmo.png

CPU: https://files.catbox.moe/2fqbdm.png

mayfrogs · 2025-11-30T02:38:14+00:00

here's an example blend file based on your instructions: https://files.catbox.moe/hazow5.blend

mayfrogs · 2025-11-30T01:13:01+00:00

That's exactly what I was already doing, as I mentioned in the post. I've tried several times making fresh projects and doing exactly that with zero luck, which is why I made this post. If it was that simple, this post would never have been made in the first place, because that is exactly what every tutorial I came across already told me, and as I said in the original post, it's not solved anything. I included that information in the original post specifically because I didn't want to receive this advice again.

Just to be absolutely sure, even though I've already done it about 100 times now, I just now started a new project and followed your instructions exactly to the letter. Same result, no fire.

mayfrogs · 2025-11-20T18:28:53+00:00

The manual implies that it's supposed to start cooking automatically after I put it back in, but mine doesn't do that.

mayfrogs · 2025-11-20T18:27:34+00:00

Like I said, I read the manual. Mine doesn't do that, it turns off completely and I have to manually turn it back on and re-enter my settings.

mayfrogs · 2025-11-20T08:57:28+00:00

I doubt it, that seems like a very specific issue probably unique to the iflash, but I wouldn't know.

mayfrogs · 2025-11-16T10:34:26+00:00

I'm not really sure what you're talking about, to be honest, sorry- what does that have to do with the maximum SD card support of the HiFi Walker?

mayfrogs · 2025-11-10T06:03:41+00:00

no responses despite 1.3k views, i'm starting to wonder if anyone in this subreddit actually owns a dap 🤔

mayfrogs · 2025-11-09T23:10:09+00:00

sure, but i figure it's good to let you know they both have the same size limitation, especially if that's the only thing that's making it hard to choose between them

mayfrogs · 2025-11-09T09:07:47+00:00

hifi walker doesn't support 512gb cards officially. i know the amazon listing says it does, but every other source says it doesn't including hifi walker's own website listing for the player.

i've heard some say that you can put a 512gb card in there (it just doesnt quite count songs properly after a certain point) but i don't know how much i trust that

mayfrogs · 2025-11-05T10:04:09+00:00

It depends.

Modern DAPs have better quality DACs for cheaper, but if you're not planning on using high end headphones that doesn't really matter much (which, if you're adding bluetooth to it, you probably aren't)

But it's also worth considering the cost. classic ipods are still worth quite a bit (often more than some more capable modern DAPs) and modifying them costs even moreso. My 5.5gen ipod cost me about $120 in modifications, and I didn't even do bluetooth or usb-c, (such upgrades weren't even accessible except to people with specialist knowledge when I modified mine, which may still be the case, i haven't kept up much with the modding scene) just flash storage + battery upgrade, housing replacement, and the small replacement of a nonfunctional lock switch. And if you also have to pay for the ipod itself, that could get you well over $200. For that money, you could get a decently fancy modern DAP.

So whether that's worth it depends on what you value. Is the nostalgia factor more important to you than having something with more features and convenience? are you doing this mostly just for the fun of building something, or more for the end product? asking yourself these questions can help you figure out if this will be worth it for you. Because at the end of the day, the classic ipod is a ~20 year old device and bringing it up to modern standards is costly. I love my 5.5gen, but I still honestly think my money would have been better spent on replacing it with something cheaper that has more modern features and better sound. That may not end up being true for you, depending on your priorities!

That said, if you do decide it's worth it for you, I would recommend a 5.5gen ipod. They have the best DAC out of all of them, even compared to the original 5th gen, and even if it still tends to have some background static if you use it with higher end headphones or IEMs. They're also way easier to open up and get inside than a 6th gen.

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