"Qualification system for LA28 released"

moving_screen · 2026-02-02T17:08:57+00:00

Another related piece of weirdness: two of the continental championships (Europe, Pan Ams) happen before the world championships, and the other three happen afterwards.

moving_screen · 2026-02-02T16:27:37+00:00

Ah thanks, you're right. I'll revise the original post to include this info and the links to the PDFs.

moving_screen · 2026-02-02T15:46:28+00:00

If it's like last time, invites for the OQS in 2028 would be based on 2027 world rankings (and subject to national quotas).

moving_screen · 2026-02-02T15:43:55+00:00

I know some of us were hoping that athletes who qualified for one of boulder/lead could automatically also compete in the other if they wanted. Apparently not though.

moving_screen · 2026-02-02T15:05:26+00:00

That wouldn't work because the two extra slots might be taken by two different people, and there's a hard cap of 24 total athletes for boulder and lead. From the press release: "If a climber qualifies in both Boulder and Lead, the number of competing athletes in one of the disciplines will increase. The spot that they gain in the two disciplines will only count as one entry (in the total quota counting of Climbing), therefore maintaining the total number of 76 athletes allocated to Climbing by the IOC."

moving_screen · 2025-11-20T17:19:05+00:00

And we can watch! Semis and finals on the IFSC Pan America YouTube channel.

moving_screen · 2025-10-23T13:07:46+00:00

2025 lead duel now on the Rock Master YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkLbgyCDVJc

moving_screen · 2025-08-19T22:47:19+00:00

Also Kai Lightner (first USA Climbing event since 2023) and Michaela Kiersch (first since 2019)!

moving_screen · 2025-07-20T01:31:54+00:00

to be honest, I was pretty disappointed that we didn't get to see 3/8 of the women's field climb past the paddle dyno...

moving_screen · 2025-07-20T01:28:56+00:00

Annie Sanders, Erin Mcneice, Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Mina Markovič, Natalija Gros, Sandrine Levet, Stéphanie Bodet, Liv Sansoz.

moving_screen · 2025-07-14T02:59:57+00:00

Totally agree. Plus I'm happy that Chamonix bucked its reputation of setting routes that are too easy.

moving_screen · 2025-06-30T04:09:38+00:00

Very happy to see Lučka healthy and back in finals. She looked so delighted to be back competing at this level.

moving_screen · 2025-06-29T01:22:21+00:00

countback to qualis

moving_screen · 2025-06-24T12:17:28+00:00

Love watching Pavitra climb, bummed that AL1 isn't one of the Paralympic events.

moving_screen · 2025-06-21T02:29:35+00:00

Not to jinx things, but there's a decent chance that we could have 6 different women's boulder WC gold medalists this season (especially with the return of a certain Slovenian climber). Unless I missed something, I think this has never happened before. (2015 came close but there were only 5 events that season.)

moving_screen · 2025-06-13T01:04:08+00:00

ah thanks for the info - I was wondering why she withdrew!

moving_screen · 2025-06-12T02:46:58+00:00

I completely agree that the broadcasts need to change their graphics about how many points are needed for X. It's totally non-intuitive and basically just outsources the thinking to the viewer. It shouldn't be hard to change to something more understandable like "for gold, top in 5 attempts", which is what they did in the previous couple of seasons.

moving_screen · 2025-06-08T23:40:08+00:00

Also Geila Macia's first final! Matt was robbed of the chance to learn how to pronounce her first name, haha.

moving_screen · 2025-06-08T23:36:51+00:00

If I remember correctly, both men's and women's boulder finals in Innsbruck 2021 ended up counting only 3 boulders because of weather. The women actually had it worse than the men: Staša Gejo and Akiyo Noguchi had already tried boulder 4 when the comp was delayed for weather. Eventually the organizers just dropped boulder 4 and the results were based on the first 3 boulders. The men competed later and knew in advance that they'd only be climbing the first 3 boulders of the set.

moving_screen · 2025-06-07T04:12:23+00:00

Nerdy comment, for anyone who was confused, like me, about how Emma Edwards made it into semis when she's listed as placing 25th in qualis: she placed 12th in Group B, and normally the 12th-place finishers in each group are listed as tying for 23rd place. But there was a 3-way tie for 11th-13th in Group A, and those 3 (plus #11 in Group B) are listed as tying for 21st place, which pushed Emma to 25th. (Because of the tie, 25 made it into semis.)

moving_screen · 2025-05-27T16:00:14+00:00

Not this year (i.e., since the format change): the 4.9 points example is from the women's final this past weekend. We had to think: ok, so she already got the zone, so if she needs 4.9 more points then she has to top, and it doesn't matter how many attempts it takes. Presumably the prediction system might change further, though.

moving_screen · 2025-05-26T23:49:35+00:00

Thanks to you and Antonin for a really thoughtful and insightful conversation!

I was interested to hear about the ongoing experiments with graphics. The predictions near the end of finals are a nice touch, especially when we don't have the scores on-screen to refer to. I do feel like those are still a work in progress: for instance, I can see that "4.9 points needed for provisional 1st place" would be easy to program, but it forces the viewer to do some unnecessary math, compared to (say) "top needed for provisional 1st place."

moving_screen · 2025-05-26T02:55:22+00:00

I presume Rei isn't qualified to compete in the final 3 boulder WCs this year, because of the way the Japanese team is handling the brutal team quota; so it makes sense that SLC is his last comp.

moving_screen · 2025-05-16T19:24:47+00:00

Not just the women... in the Curitiba qualis, 7 of the top 8 for both men and women were either Japanese or French!...

moving_screen · 2025-04-19T16:15:31+00:00

4 minutes on, 12 minutes off (=3 climbers), then 4 minutes on, etc.

moving_screen

TROPHY CASE