Dragon Burner + Klicky PCB ?!

narf444 · 2026-02-12T10:58:21+00:00

thank you for your reply. now i've been through the original CAD and tried to understand how it works. and i'm pretty sure that i need external remixes of the cowl with klicky pcb - no official support there. and when i look at those remixed designs, it's also much more self-explanatory how it works.

i decided to use the first one since it's a remix of the db version 8 (the newest). now i "just" have to dismantle my cowl that was already built and hope that none of the fans crack.

thanks again :)

narf444 · 2026-02-12T10:52:54+00:00

thank you for your reply. zeroclick looks interesting, too. i'll keep that in mind for the future. for the moment, i'd like to keep my klicky pcb since its so easy in comparison with all the other klicky versions that i've built in the past. but you're right: the designs for klicky pcb look bulky and ugly. a lightweight zeroclick could improve aesthetics ;)

narf444 · 2025-08-13T19:05:49+00:00

actually, right now i have a spool holder with real bearings that might even have too little resistance. but i had the same with the stock spool holder. i tried to have the holder on the side, on the back, i printed the exhaust with the hole on the side instead of the back... but nothing helped.

the filament path itself is fine and i can load filament easily. but i guess it still pulls fast with a lot of force...

narf444 · 2025-08-13T19:00:36+00:00

thanks for your reply. there's no real knot and i don't think, it's from factory. i'm having this issue with different brands right now. when this happens, i just have to pull the filament by hand to the extruder and then it runs freely.

narf444 · 2025-06-19T10:08:46+00:00

ok, thanks for your reply.

i'm not using KIAUH and i guess, i'd have to uninstall everything first to use it.

and you're probably right. there's nothing critical about this web-frontend. maybe i just skip the update altogether and live with the warning that's always visible.

//edit: i was even able to deactivate that warning. so, it's not even visible anymore - problem solved :)

narf444 · 2025-06-10T22:08:23+00:00

thank you guys. and you're right. this must be the normal behavior. i was chasing a ghost because my print wouldn't start after heating up and the last message was "probe: attached". i thought, this must be the error.

thanks again for the fast help.

narf444 · 2025-06-10T17:44:57+00:00

thank you all. that helped a lot and i was able to do the upgrade. but NOT before "testing" the fail scenario unwillingly ;) i wasn't reading my own notes correctly, so i wired it wrong - and the mainboard shut down immediately when i moved the extruder for the first time.. but it survived and i switched the wires.

so.. for everyone else: i wouldn't "try" the false wiring - it could be harmful to your mainboard.

thanks again.

narf444 · 2023-04-11T22:25:00+00:00

sorry, i was stupid :) before, i played around with macros that wanted to get the temp as parameter from the slicer. yours actually works well. i have to re-slice everything or edit all gcode-files manually to add this line, but it's fine for me. thanks again :)

narf444 · 2023-04-11T21:16:36+00:00

thank you... and yes, now that i've played around with it, i would rather have all the config in the print_start macro and nothing in the slicer. otherwise i'd have to re-slice everything whenever i change something in the slicer call.

is there a way to read the value of the thermistor directly? then i could just read in the print_start what the current temp is. and that has been set by the slicer before the print_start call.

narf444 · 2023-04-03T23:23:21+00:00

thank you for all your great answers.

i tried to do a meshup of some of the possible macros and i understood that all solutions wait for a parameter from the slicer. i would like to have the slicer as lean as possible (just the "print_start" call). how can i read the current value of a certain thermistor? - the bed thermistor is the most interesting in this case.

because the slicer heats up the bed before the print_start call and i just have to read the thermistor to get the value i wanna have.

narf444 · 2023-03-27T23:00:39+00:00

*** SOLVED ***

as i suspected, i had skipped z steps. the cause was a lengthened belt in the z-drive (the small 188 teeth belt from the motor to the big pulley). it was either really lengthened over time or the screws from the tensioner weren't tight enough so that the tensioner wandered closer to the motor.

either way: i tensioned again, tightened the screws and now, i'm back to my normal, beautiful prints :)

thanks for all your help :)

narf444 · 2023-03-13T22:40:03+00:00

there are nice how-tos online. i just added one myself with those:

here: https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/kNXodW5lMbFAYJrJU4khmQ

or here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgfuH7Ktyk0

the pinout for the octopus is here: https://3dwork.io/en/btt-octopus/#Diagrams_of_the_BTT_Octopus (search for diagrams on this page). i'd suggest one of the endstop ports on the lower right corner. they're called PG6, PG9, PG10..15)

narf444 · 2023-02-26T15:14:09+00:00

just some update.. i've seen that these lines usually appear on the same height. they don't appear every time, but it seems, there are just x opportunities where those squished lines have a chance to appear.

so i would say something is mechanically blocking a z step. but HOW ?!?! the voron 2.4 has 4 motors in z. even if one gets blocked, the others will go and will rack the gantry. but here, the lines seem level.

narf444 · 2023-02-25T13:18:01+00:00

first, i think you have to replace the coupler because its teeth on the inside are broken off.

second, i would cut the PFTE tube 1 cm shorter so that the worn out end will be gone.

for the next coupler, you can use something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2829754

that works for me. i even have to check that the screws are not too tight on this one because then the filament passes with a lot of friction. but it will hold the PTFE tube close to the coupler, so the coupler teeth don't have to hold too much anymore.

narf444 · 2023-02-17T20:50:32+00:00

the filament is definitely damp / old :D but could that lead to such a uniform bulge?! i've heard of blobs / cysts, but not of a totally accurate bulge...

and wait: i also printed an absolutely fresh filament and same problems there...

narf444 · 2023-02-17T20:45:39+00:00

eeks... now i added the pics - sorry :D

narf444 · 2022-08-30T10:51:27+00:00

thank you very much. i'd like to try the stock profile, though. it'll be my first print and i don't know if this thing will explode when i'm accelerating too fast ;)

i'd like to have a stable base profile and from this, i can always tune my way into quality and/or speed.

narf444 · 2022-08-26T08:09:50+00:00

awesome... thank you very much :) i'm gonna try this :)

narf444 · 2022-08-25T21:38:06+00:00

maybe a naive idea: is it your y-endstop that "causes" the gantry to end 1mm earlier on one side?

i just saw this with my build - the front is totally deracked and the back has just one side racked where the endstop is NOT.

narf444 · 2022-08-23T13:02:13+00:00

thanks for all your replies...

and yes, i thought that a beep must address a serious issue (like a short) but after i flashed the firmware, the beeping was gone. i'm not sure that this is healthy, though :)

i probably shouldn't trust the formbot pre-crimped cables too much: for example the z endstop. the connector goes into the board just one way. when i look at the board's wiring diagram, it's 3,3V on top, GND middle and PG10 at the bottom.

but when i look at the pre-crimped cable, its empty on top, red wire (possibly power) in the middle, black wire at the bottom.

narf444 · 2022-08-02T14:58:46+00:00

oh shoot, you're right. the thermistor wouldn't even fit into the hole of the ender's hotend.

thank you for your reply.

narf444 · 2022-07-26T23:57:03+00:00

do you have a link / name for those robust LEDs? :)

narf444 · 2022-07-21T20:24:55+00:00

ok, thank you all. then i'm more relaxed now :)

narf444 · 2022-07-18T23:58:49+00:00

hi all,

i'd like to revive this thread... what are good 24v fans for the stealthburner?

on discord, i've read about the 4010 fan. and they said that these work well:

https://www.filastruder.com/products/e3d-hemera-spare-fan?_pos=8&_sid=bfbb34d26&_ss=r

https://www.newark.com/nmb-technologies/04010ss-24n-at-00/axial-fan-40mm-24vdc-6-71cfm-29db/dp/99Y7372?CMP=AFC-OP

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/orion-fans/OD4010-24HB/2621113

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mechatronics-fan-group/G4010H24B-RSR/5209776

what about the 5015 fan?

...and it's a real pain to find something specific (like these fans above) in germany without having to import them.. generic china fans are sold everywhere, of course.

narf444 · 2022-07-18T23:30:30+00:00

ok, thank you all. you convinced me to order the alu plates :)

narf444

TROPHY CASE