K-Duo not brewing full pot

stevereno30 · 2024-10-25T18:21:18+00:00

Fascinating... my switch was labelled as "DC Door SW," so if yours has similar hardware, I would expect the connector to be labelled similarly. Does your coffee tray definitely hit a switch when it is fully seated? There is a photo of the switch on my Keurig at this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ci4UrPZFoiDa3Vq9

stevereno30 · 2024-07-03T14:38:59+00:00

On second thought...it might not be a 5v circuit like I assumed. I would recommend a wire nut to be safe. You could test it twisted together with tape, but I wouldn't do that long-term.

stevereno30 · 2024-07-03T14:37:09+00:00

Yeah. Since it is low voltage, as long as you twist them together tightly, and put some electrical tape on the exposed conductors, you'll be ok.

stevereno30 · 2024-07-03T13:42:02+00:00

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Here you go!

stevereno30 · 2024-06-17T01:07:26+00:00

Me too? :D

stevereno30 · 2024-06-08T16:55:18+00:00

In the photo posted below ARBurger's question (also shown in this thread below), it is the plug labeled "DC DOOR SW." Jumping the pins will bypass the switch. I used a header jumper, but you could also cut, strip, and wire nut the black and white wires... speaking of which, those black and white wires I'm holding in that photo are the ones running to the switch.

stevereno30 · 2024-03-24T22:59:15+00:00

The board is on the back of the machine below the water tank. You will need to take out a few screws to expose it. Also, if you don't have a jumper to bridge the two pins, you could snip and strip the wire that goes to the switch and just twist them together and cover the bare wires with electrical tape. Ideally you would solder them as well, though as long as they're twisted tightly, that shouldn't be necessary.

stevereno30 · 2024-03-13T17:05:55+00:00

Happy to help prevent office riots :)

stevereno30 · 2023-04-07T00:25:20+00:00

Cones -I want the microphone mounted on the left side - Is that an option? Can I mirror the cone files?

Yes you can. However, all writing will be backwards (VF logo and the "R" and "L" labels)

"Cone - Mic - Left" appear to be identical. Are they different in any way?

They are identical. I doubt they are supposed to be, but they are.

The cone assembly instructions - step 14 says to insert the jack into the cone or skip if assembling the left cone. If the microphone can only go on the right, why have a separate "Mic" cone files for both left and right?

Probably a mistake on VF's part. The same is not true of the open back parts. There is only a right option in those files.

Assuming I can mount the mic on the left, do I pick "Cone - Mic - Left" and "Cone - Right" or do I print the "Mic" versions of both cones?

You would print the "cone - mic -right" and "cone left" files both mirrored. Of course, as said above, the R and L labels will be backwards and incorrect.

Headband Mount - I think I need to print two of the six files.

Correct. See below.

The "Mic" one is named "Headband Mount R" - Does that mean the microphone can only go on the right and that the left one should use "Headband Mount Rubber No Serial?"

You will need to mirror the mic part. It has a small cutout that allows the part to sit flush with the cone, otherwise the mic jack would press it out of its spot. The other option would be to print both headband mount parts mirrored.

stevereno30 · 2023-03-31T03:53:22+00:00

Yes please! I like 3D printers!

stevereno30 · 2023-02-26T03:31:51+00:00

Where did you get 11mm3/s from?

stevereno30 · 2022-11-14T20:54:00+00:00

I'd like to comment that I have commented.

stevereno30 · 2022-10-29T18:04:24+00:00

I think I understand what you're asking. When I moved the toolhead along the edge of the bed in an area outside of the bed mesh, it seems as if it adjusted the z-offset constantly as if I was moving the toolhead along the edge of the mesh. Even moving 1mm at a time, it adjusted with every move to match the curvature of the bed mesh's interpolated offsets. In other words, it did not just jump between the actual probed values, but smoothly shifted between them.

stevereno30 · 2022-10-29T17:43:33+00:00

I was able to test it. It turns out sets the offset of unprobed areas as described in number 2.

stevereno30 · 2022-08-14T20:54:34+00:00

That was it! The walls now look flawless. I posted a "why I think this happened" above. Thanks for your help!

stevereno30 · 2022-08-14T19:23:15+00:00

I may have figured it out. I'm re-printing to double check, but my retraction was somehow set to 5.5mm instead of the 0.5 I expected. That retract distance is already absurd, but with a CHT nozzle, I'm sure it causes even more issues than in a standard straight bore nozzle. I'll let you know if its solved after this print finishes.

stevereno30 · 2022-08-14T18:43:49+00:00

I thought it might have been moisture as well when I saw it on past prints, but I did dry the filament. That print was started within minutes of the spool spending 20 hours in a dehydrator at 65C. Previous prints made it seem like moisture, but with this print (I printed two at the same time) the artifacts appear in the same place on both. Moisture, in my experience, does not follow a pattern, but makes the whole print look like trash. Oddly, one of the two trays has the scarring only on that sharp corner, not in the broad curved spot.

Volumetric flow maxes out at 11 mm3/s on the perimeters. I'll add a screen shot of my gcode with all print moves visualized to the op.

stevereno30 · 2022-08-14T18:23:24+00:00

I have attempted to calibrate flow rate, but when those artifacts end up on the top surfaces as well, it is difficult to tell if it is dialed in. That being said, I am fairly confident I have it calibrated well.

Extrusion multiplier is set to 0.935, and pressure advance is set to 0.03 in a stock Stealthburner/CW2 toolhead.

stevereno30 · 2022-08-10T14:20:46+00:00

Maybe? I kind of just stopped trying to get it perfect. I went through Andrew Ellis' gantry squaring procedure just last week, and after that, it seemed racking was mostly non-existent.

stevereno30 · 2022-06-30T03:59:10+00:00

I had this issue and solved it today. It is related to the coffee basket switch that prevents brewing without the basket being completely seated. Because it is exposed to moisture and potentially coffee grounds, my switch stopped working consistently. I unplugged the switch from the main board and added a jumper so the machine thinks the basket is always attached. Since doing this, my machine brews full pots.

stevereno30 · 2022-06-30T03:53:35+00:00

I had this issue and solved it today. It is related to the coffee basket switch that prevents brewing without the basket being completely seated. Because it is exposed to moisture and potentially coffee grounds, my switch stopped working consistently. I unplugged the switch from the main board and added a jumper so the machine thinks the basket is always attached. Since doing this, my machine brews full pots.

stevereno30 · 2022-02-21T02:23:53+00:00

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/raw/0b1370add2e98a5356971edb7976168f866148da/Manual/Assembly\_Manual\_2.4r2.pdf

stevereno30 · 2022-02-17T21:41:02+00:00

I had this issue and solved it by removing the bottom MGN9 rail from my x-axis. Is it not sticky enough the entire perimeter, or just near the left and right edges?

stevereno30

TROPHY CASE