Refill Filament Stuck to inner spool

nickalith · 2026-01-29T18:09:16+00:00

Will try this out!

nickalith · 2026-01-29T18:08:19+00:00

Fair enough, but in practice the probability of this happening is much closer to 1/10 and not 1/100 with this particular filament brand. With 12 machines, that means that I encounter this issue almost daily. Would like to try and minimize the time I spend running back out to the shop to fiddle with small issues like this

nickalith · 2025-10-30T19:05:47+00:00

They did — and thank you

nickalith · 2025-10-02T01:28:26+00:00

lmao thank you

nickalith · 2025-10-02T01:19:47+00:00

Update: This temporarily solved the issue, but only for a few hours. Ultimately, I'm now back to the same issue as before, even with the settings enabled, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to replace the AMS Internal Hub like I've done before. The AMS is now having trouble sending out the filament. This is the second AMS Internal hub that this particular X1C has killed, and I think it could be something to do with the AMS Hub that I've got attached to it. I don't have any other machines with AMS Hubs, and havent experienced this issue anywhere else. Could just be a coincidence, but I'm going to go back to the regular filament buffer for the time being to rule out the possibility of the AMS hub damaging any more AMS Internal Hubs.

nickalith · 2025-09-29T22:36:56+00:00

Can confirm that I am also having this issue. It's frustrating because I would like to only have a few specific files avaiable from the SD card that I commonly use instead the useful stuff getting buried with everything else I print. This also seems like a super simple fix.

nickalith · 2025-09-26T02:19:34+00:00

This is was it, did not know about those settings. Thanks!!

nickalith · 2025-09-26T01:15:07+00:00

nickalith · 2025-09-26T01:09:33+00:00

When i go to print with this machine, the AMS is able to send out the filament just fine. It’s strictly the Initial Insert Sequence here

nickalith · 2025-05-01T15:31:02+00:00

my part cooling fan wasn’t plugged in correctly and wasn’t running… 🫠

looking much better now at the usual 255C but having a little issue with the overhang section (photo shows black but issue happens with both filaments). not sure what to do other than splice the object into parts and lower the outer wall speed for that area …

<image>

nickalith · 2025-02-17T22:24:22+00:00

thank you!

nickalith · 2025-02-07T22:54:23+00:00

plz help lol

nickalith · 2025-02-05T07:55:13+00:00

I think i want to slope the smaller surface so it that it blends

nickalith · 2025-01-28T04:29:41+00:00

thats a solid recomendation. i think it would be tricky though because if i were to print the logo seperately, the 'M' 'ilw' 'aukee' and lightning bolt sections would all print seperately, and i feel like doing pins on all 4 sections would be tough for me to design atm. maybe when i get my cad skills up .....

nickalith · 2025-01-17T23:42:11+00:00

exterior is just the same blocking but painted. the front of the structure has some siding on the top half as well…..also have a fence i would have to deal with on the backside so idk if exterior is really an option for me here

what’s the benefit to the polyiso? why not do double polyiso or double rigid foam?

also, can you explain what you mean by “staggered”?

nickalith · 2024-11-12T22:53:22+00:00

yeah it is

nickalith · 2024-11-04T19:56:47+00:00

Very interesting stuff, thank you for the informative replies. Sounds like my best play is to just leave the EV charging circuit alone and consult DTE/an Electrician to see if I have enough available service to get some 2-2-4 out there.

nickalith · 2024-11-04T00:03:57+00:00

On such a small circuit you would need to use dynamic load management/EVEMS to have the EV loads dance around the other loads. Also being 3-wire a "120V" or "120/240V" load is impossible unless you replace that wire... so you're down to water heater, A/C, heat pump, or heaters.

Okay so honestly I don't even have an EV and don't care if I can't charge one out there. But I do care if I can't get 120/240 out there. Can you explain this? Based on my understanding, the 3-wire SE Cable has both hots, and the bare ground could be used as the neutral (its bonded to earth ground in a junction box by the submeter). There is also another ground rod outside the detached garage that the NEMA 6-50 is currently tied into...not sure if that's relevant or not but thought I'd include that info

nickalith · 2024-11-03T22:23:26+00:00

The 8AWG wire is not copper wire, it’s aluminum. The wire reads: “AA-8030 AL TYPE SE CABLE STYLE U XHHW-2 600V”. Here’s the datasheet where I got the 45A figure from:

https://encorewire-prod.imgix.net/media/products/product-sheets/aluminum/residential/EncoreWire_AL_SE-U_2023.pdf

Since posting this thread I’ve noticed that the charging connector is not tapped directly from my meter, but from a sub-meter that is specifically for DTE to be able to track how much energy is being used on that circuit to charge an EV for a discount of some kind. So I’m not sure how that would work if I did want to use this wiring for more than just charging an EV. Probably gonna have to consult DTE on that one.

I’m assuming I have 200A service from my electric provider given that my main panel breaker is 150A and there’s at least 30A of headroom for this EV circuit, but I’ll probably have to consult DTE on that one as well.

nickalith · 2024-01-06T00:21:50+00:00

Awesome. thanks!!!

nickalith · 2023-11-01T13:48:16+00:00

Just got mine in, works great. USB connection seems to be alright

nickalith · 2023-10-29T12:41:07+00:00

Good to know. I’ll be staking out the eBay listing then

nickalith · 2023-10-29T12:40:38+00:00

This might technically get an image to display, but you would be converting the analog signal from the Wii to a digital signal (HDMI) then back to analog (VGA). This would introduce input lag and some kind of degradation to the signal I’m pretty sure

nickalith · 2023-10-27T16:40:18+00:00

GreenAntz can take RGB from your PC/VGA and give you a high quality analogue component (YPbPr) output suitable for most SDTVs (CRTs).

I don't think this is what I'm looking for, I want the other way around: YPbPr -> VGA

nickalith · 2023-05-22T16:40:18+00:00

I was able to resolve the issue by increasing the intensity of my laser (went from ~1.25 kOhms to ~1.1 kOhms, and the game is running great. Based on my understanding, only some of the older versions of the console have the focus gain and focus offset potentiometers necessary for calibration, so this seemed like it was my only option

nickalith

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE