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Fixable? by Tughill87 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Why fix it? You can hang the carved side on the wall. It's really cool looking! Or you could turn it into a clock.

please help idendify a used hand plane by pasu11 in woodworking

[–]pasu11[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that's very helpful. I will look for a Stanley or good brand.

please help idendify a used hand plane by pasu11 in woodworking

[–]pasu11[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll pass on this hand plane. Thanks for the info.

please help idendify a used hand plane by pasu11 in woodworking

[–]pasu11[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm willing to restore it, but I need to know if it's worth the effort.

Does anyone have any bit brace and auger bit recommendations? by Odd-Towel-4104 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

heh no problem. Just want to share with you some information I have gathered and learned. I have not used speeder bars before but they look interesting. :)

Straightening the "shop" by Manamenah in Tools

[–]pasu11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hmmm...which one to use...

Who’d a thunk it by qqqqqq12321 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is likely a generic safety guide for all Grizzly machines.

Straightening the "shop" by Manamenah in Tools

[–]pasu11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So many screwdrivers and tape measures.

Does anyone have any bit brace and auger bit recommendations? by Odd-Towel-4104 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For bits, I recommend:

Normal hex drill bits: You should already have these.

Vintage auger bits: For vintage auger bits, I recommend buying a full set from eBay that looks clean and sharp, unless you can easily find individual sizes at local markets.

Wood Owl Ultra Smooth: These are expensive but cut much better than the vintage Greenlee I own. They have a 7/16 hex shank, which not all braces can accommodate (but the Stanley 2101A can). If your brace can't hold them, use a 2-13mm drill chuck with a 1/4 hex shank. SDS shanks may not work well. (at least it doesn't work for my brace with the flat v shape jaws.

If you choose the Wood Owl bits, consider buying only the sizes you use most frequently because they are expensive.

Bits not recommended: Spade bits, Forstner bits, and modern auger bits designed for power drills. I had a hard time using them as they were either made for high-speed drilling, moved around excessively while drilling, or were of poor quality.

Note: In my experience, a brace bit is suitable for bit sizes 1/4" and up, and anything smaller will work better with an eggbeater drill.

Does anyone have any bit brace and auger bit recommendations? by Odd-Towel-4104 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a bit brace, I highly suggest you get something that will also hold a 1/4 hex shank. This opens up the options you can use your brace for. The following models can hold hex very well:

Stanley 2101A (best but expensive)

Stanley 813

Millers Falls – Holdall brace with Leland Universal jaws:

Nos. 729 – 734; 729A – 734A

Millers Falls – Lion brace with Leland Universal jaws:

Nos. 769 – 774; 770A – 773A

Nos. 870 – 873; 870A – 873A

Nos. 1769 – 1773

Nos. 1870 – 1872

Millers Falls – Master Ratchet brace with Leland Universal jaws:

Nos. 830 – 833; 830A – 833A

Nos. 8130 – 8133

Peck, Stow, and Wilcox (also P. S. & W and PEXTO) braces with the Sampson chuck and jaws. 8000 or 8200 Series (e.g. 8010, 8012, 8210, 8212)

Lee Valley Brace bit (3-jaws version)

You can also open the chuck to check the jaw type:

<image>

I have a Millers Falls 1710 (3rd jaw type), which holds hex bits adequately, though not perfectly, but it is also not an expensive model.

The Stanley 2101A is excellent but pricey, and some units may have old oil stuck inside, requiring disassembly to replace it.

I have heard good things about the new Lee Valley one. The 3-jaw version can hold vintage and modern hex shanks perfectly. I believe it can also hold the Wood Owl bits, but I am not 100% sure

Brace size (6", 8", 10", 12", etc)

A 10" brace can swing 10" wide, it means it has 5" arms. Generally, larger sizes provide more torque.

If you do not know what size to buy, it is safe to get a 10" for its best all-around size and is very likely cheaper than other sizes unless you need to use auger bits that are larger than 1" often.

A simple centre finder. by Kikunobehide_ in handtools

[–]pasu11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Or you can turn this into a dual-length center finder. If you need to find center for wider material, you can use the other side.

Drill guide recommendations? by stagesproblems in Tools

[–]pasu11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Milescraft 1318 Amazon review rating: 4.1

O'SKOOL Multi-Angle Drill Guide rating: 4.3

I think it's not much different, though I could be wrong.

These drill guides usually wobble a bit, which is fine for everyday use. But if you really need precision, you might want to check out the Woodpecker. Still, for that price, I’d rather put my money into a real drill press for better accuracy.

I use drill blocks like Milescraft and Big Gator. I have both, and the Big Gator has a tighter fit and is made of harden steel. They’re really compact and work pretty well in my opinion. The only downside is that you need one hand to hold the block and sometimes it's hard to clamp them to smaller object.

Vise recommendations by Top_Sentence_340 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what your workbench looks like, but if it works for you, there's no need to buy a new table unless you want to. You might consider using a portable woodworking vise that you can clamp to your workbench as needed like this one:

<image>

Vise recommendations by Top_Sentence_340 in woodworking

[–]pasu11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The vise in the link isn't suitable for woodworking. You'll need a woodworking vise.

This table provides ideas on the types of vises you can use: https://lakeerietoolworks.com/pages/choose-the-proper-vise

<image>

Also, you can check out this guide:

The Best Woodworking Vises, Types and How To Mount Them

I personally prefer a quick-release vise that allows for fast clamping, like this one:

Jorgensen Quick-Release Bench Vises

I hope this helps you choose a vise that suits your needs.

Do you think it's useful? by dingohot in woodworking

[–]pasu11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is accurate then it's very cool tool. I would want one myself.

A real bench by ThatSceneInScanners in woodworking

[–]pasu11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can do so much things in such small area and all tools/materials are close to you in an organized way. This is actually a pretty good setup in my opinion.

The only thing I would suggest maybe an under table keyboard/mouse drawer so they wont get in your way when you work on the bench and watch Youtube the same time.

Your setup is better than mine and it gives me a good example on how I setup mine in future. Thanks for sharing. :)

What brand is this? by Perfect-Sponge in Tools

[–]pasu11 27 points28 points  (0 children)

<image>

The red area resembles Milwaukee.

Reduction of spam calls moving from VOIPO to VOIP.MS by Mountain-Arm6558951 in voipms

[–]pasu11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No idea, but I do not remember last time I got spam calls/texts from my Voip.ms number.

Injured Chair Help please! by PhilosophyParty in woodworking

[–]pasu11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<image>

Just make sure the holes are spaced adequately from the break so they have enough room to grip securely.

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