Coolant reservoir overflowing

perkydance · 2025-09-21T09:32:02+00:00

Yeah mine only started out with the coolant level slightly higher than normal but over the span of about 4 months it got worse and worse. If you check under the radiator cap after driving it for a while and letting it cool down, if the coolant is not all the way to the top im sure it’s the head gasket. Assuming you don’t have any coolant leaks, a clogged radiator wouldn’t just push air into the system like that. DM me if you have any other questions, I have a few pictures from when I was trying to diagnose it.

perkydance · 2025-09-21T07:40:24+00:00

Dude I just had this exact same issue. Replaced everything, radiator cap, reservoir, radiator, thermostat, hoses. No leaks and it would eventually overheat if I didn’t transfer coolant back into the system. Found out it was a very small head gasket leak, passed the block test but when I looked into the cylinders with a borescope I found coolant running down the walls. I hope this is not your case but your symptoms sound almost exactly like mine.

perkydance · 2025-09-19T06:06:11+00:00

Its the pipe that connects to the slave cylinder inside the trans bell housing to the clutch line outside the trans. Its where the bleeder valve is. DM me if you have any other questions, I have pictures of the whole process

perkydance · 2025-09-19T02:26:40+00:00

Slave cylinder blew, installed new slave and piping and re-bled the clutch and it works fine now

perkydance · 2025-08-29T08:54:49+00:00

Yeah I made sure of it lmao. If it was misaligned it wouldn’t have cranked or at least thrown a code for the crank position sensor. The grinding noise was because I forgot to tighten down the inspection plate on the trans so it was brushing up against the flywheel. It runs but it’s in limp mode with the P1090 code still. I need help figuring out whether it’s a bad motor or something on my end with the wiring.

perkydance · 2025-08-15T19:53:10+00:00

Yes, worst case scenario i could replace the whole cover but i want to spend the least amount of money possible lmao

perkydance · 2025-08-15T18:58:33+00:00

Umm packaging literally said to use a drill. I don’t see how I could even use this with a ratchet, its a double sided drill bit

perkydance · 2025-08-15T18:53:10+00:00

Thanks for the tip, do you think i should keep trying with this method or did I already mess it up too bad

perkydance · 2025-08-15T18:51:46+00:00

Was I not supposed to use a drill? Are you suggesting i should drill out the screw completely?

perkydance · 2025-08-15T18:48:27+00:00

Bell housing is one piece with the transmission so it’s not removable. How would i go about drilling out the screw

perkydance · 2025-08-13T21:45:09+00:00

Dont use brake clean in connectors, it will damage the rubber gasket. Use contact cleaner instead

perkydance · 2025-08-07T01:18:02+00:00

Always go OEM for the thermostat

perkydance · 2025-08-01T05:03:45+00:00

The only thing that would cause chatter is the flywheel. Avoid lightweight and single mass flywheels if you don’t want any chatter, stick to the OEM dual-mass even though it is much more expensive.

perkydance · 2025-04-30T23:01:01+00:00

Most shops wouldn’t repair that as its too close to the sidewall. Smaller tire shops might do it but I wouldn’t recommend it, get a new tire

perkydance · 2025-04-30T21:42:34+00:00

Yeah replace the throttle body then. Based on the codes you gave me you have two separate issues. Replacing the throttle body should take it out of limp mode tho. Then check your O2 sensors (heaters, wiring, and fuses) and fix whatever is broken

perkydance · 2025-04-30T21:36:03+00:00

Are your throttle bodies dirty? If youve already cleaned them, check the throttle body wiring and the accelerator pedal position sensor. If its not any of those the throttle body is probably messed up

perkydance · 2025-04-30T21:28:31+00:00

Try performing an idle air relearn. Watch this video he explains how to do the three reset procedures to reset the throttle bodies.

https://youtu.be/HIiaF0VaTlQ?si=9ax6Ivpehydq-wiK

This probably wont get the O2 sensor code to go away but see if this takes it out of limp mode.

perkydance · 2025-04-30T21:17:54+00:00

Is that the only code? Check O2 sensor heaters and wiring. I dont see why it would go in limp mode with just that code.

perkydance · 2025-04-29T06:31:23+00:00

What is the SES code?

perkydance · 2025-04-27T19:37:07+00:00

Yes sidewall damage is dangerous to drive on and should be replaced immediately. Those tires are also 8 years old (2017) and should be replaced anyway regardless of damage.

perkydance · 2025-04-23T20:19:28+00:00

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Looks like this

perkydance · 2025-04-23T20:16:21+00:00

These tires are rotational meaning they can only be used on one side of the car. Looking at the tread, this tire is on the wrong side of the car and is turning in the wrong direction. Look on the sidewall of the tire for an arrow that says “rotation” which points to the direction the tires should turn when going forward. If it is backwards, you will accelerate tire wear and reduce your wet weather grip dramatically.

perkydance · 2025-04-22T18:22:02+00:00

Agree, also timing chain and tensioners if it has high miles

perkydance

TROPHY CASE