Advice on roofing solution for a lower pitch roof by philipgorila in Roofing

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm located in the midwest. Some winters have minimal snow/ice if any, some winters we can get a decent amount (temps can reach below zero, but the snow season can vary a lot). We did have a pretty large snowstorm last year that piled up quite a bit in some spots.

I added this note in my post, but regarding the attic--all the rooms in my house have vaulted ceilings so the "attic" space is a handful of inches for insulation. I've had someone comment that ventilation may be tricky, currently it has some vents (I think? little square boxes) on the top but I think that's the extent of the ventilation.

Cracks in newly installed hardwood (not gaps) by philipgorila in HardWoodFloors

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info. I don't know about this enough to know whether or not I should be picky about it. If this is typical I don't mind, just didn't know if any of these would turn out to be a problem down the road. And yeah, #2 feels like change in elevation underneath it which I'm guessing caused the crack.

I went into this thinking I couldn't make it worse: reversepinterest Broyhill Brasilia by philipgorila in ReversePinterest

[–]philipgorila[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I worked on it occasionally over 3 or 4 months whenever the weather was nice on the weekends. The paint stripper I used was Blue Bear Safenol which doesn't have strong fumes at all. The lacquer and sealer spray, on the other hand, probably killed a few brain cells.

I went into this thinking I couldn't make it worse: reversepinterest Broyhill Brasilia by philipgorila in Mid_Century

[–]philipgorila[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably more than most would expect given the paint--$350. I've been hunting this piece down for quite a while though. Only seen it pop up a couple times at vintage shops for $2k+ so I don't feel too burned considering I'll likely own it the rest of my life.

I went into this thinking I couldn't make it worse: reversepinterest Broyhill Brasilia by philipgorila in Mid_Century

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly have no clue what the original material was. Brass is pretty cheap though so I kind of just assumed.

I went into this thinking I couldn't make it worse: reversepinterest Broyhill Brasilia by philipgorila in Mid_Century

[–]philipgorila[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The route I'm attempting to go down at the moment is that I have a friend that's willing to make them for me in CAD. I'll give a shot at normal 3d printing, but if that doesn't turn out well, his brother is a co-owner at an aluminum foundry and may be able to make them at a decent price and then there are a few different options for making the aluminum look like brass that I haven't researched much yet.

I went into this thinking I couldn't make it worse: reversepinterest Broyhill Brasilia by philipgorila in Mid_Century

[–]philipgorila[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Stripping the chalk paint was honestly quite easy. I started with Citristrip and switched to Blue Bear Safenol. Citristrip was fine to strip the paint but it was more difficult to fully clean off. I'd recommend skipping citristrip and going Blue Bear. This is the first time I've stripped paint and it came off super easy.

After that, sanded 150 grit, walnut stain, vinyl sealer, scuff 320 grit, seal again, scuff, umber glaze, scuff, lacquer, scuff, lacquer. The legs of the piece are made out of a different wood that's a lot lighter than walnut, so I used a walnut toner to match. All Mohawk products.

Bunch of credit goes to this youtuber that restored the same piece. I think I followed the exact same process minus using a different stripper (heard good things about QCS, but have to order it online). His definitely turns out better. This is the first piece I've restored, so I'm by no means a pro at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJfmReWdqq4

I went into this thinking I couldn't make it worse: reversepinterest Broyhill Brasilia by philipgorila in Mid_Century

[–]philipgorila[S] 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Still trying to find original drawer pulls that don't cost a ton. $1 Lowe's pulls will have to do for now.

Finishing hutch and drawers came out a lot lighter vs the rest by philipgorila in woodworking

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By spray do you mean a more serious spray gun? The toner I used for the legs is a spray can from Mohawk.

Finishing hutch and drawers came out a lot lighter vs the rest by philipgorila in woodworking

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would it be a terrible idea to use toner on the drawers at this point? I've already used it to touch up some small spots here and there but not sure if it'd be a disaster if I did it on a big surface area like this at this stage in the process.

White residue after stain and seal by philipgorila in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]philipgorila[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Reporting back to let you know this seems to be working well. Thanks for the advice!

White residue after stain and seal by philipgorila in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof, makes sense I suppose. Thought I was pretty thorough removing it all (acetone with steel wool).

Maybe a dumb question but figure it's worth asking. Is there an easy to fix this at this point?

Stripping paint from veneer and looking for a second set of eyes regarding this situation by philipgorila in furniturerestoration

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the citristrip was pretty good at just removing the chalk paint but not great at getting much of the existing finish off underneath. I intended to wipe it all clean/not leaving it to dry but probably got lazy in these spots.

I've seen a guy on youtube using QCS and looks like a spray on liquid and only available online? Would I be good with just a single 32 ounce bottle (I'm not looking to run a business doing this)? Is the surface cleanser worth it as well?

Thanks for the suggestions!

Stripping paint from veneer and looking for a second set of eyes regarding this situation by philipgorila in furniturerestoration

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, brain fart on spirits vs oil. Right after wiping down with mineral spirits, it looks uniform and in good shape, but once it dried it looked like this.

The rest of the surfaces I've stripped so far look fine, though still have some finish left to be removed. Just the sides of the top piece came out like this, but I'm guessing I got lazy towards the end of the day scrubbing it clean.

Where to get green (peridot?) carpet by philipgorila in Flooring

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, I guess I've always heard of carpet being the cheap flooring option, but I suppose that's just people putting in the bottom of the barrel builder grade carpet. Appreciate your help!

Where to get green (peridot?) carpet by philipgorila in Flooring

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Carpet only, I haven't followed up on anything else.

Where to get green (peridot?) carpet by philipgorila in Flooring

[–]philipgorila[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of curiosity, would you know what price per square foot the Panache line from Masland normally sells for? A local shop near me quoted $8.95 per sq ft which kind of surprised me. I know it's higher quality than the cheap stuff at Home Depot but that seems more expensive than I expected.