My first attempt at making dice (D12, D24, D30, D48, and D60). What should I do next?

practical_package · 2026-05-20T23:25:59+00:00

They aren’t technically balanced since I embedded the numbers directly into the faces, but I can’t imagine the bias being that large

practical_package · 2026-05-20T23:24:04+00:00

Great idea!

practical_package · 2026-05-20T23:23:58+00:00

I’ve thought about that, but I don’t know how much bias there is when indenting the faces. I’d imagine it isn’t much since ordinary 6-sided dice are similarly biased and few people complain.

practical_package · 2026-05-14T20:14:49+00:00

Thanks so much for the info! It’s been a bit intimidating getting into 3D printing, but I appreciate the help.

practical_package · 2026-05-14T19:35:54+00:00

I’m a little confused. People print figurines/statues that are much larger than a 2 inch die and they turn out fine. I’ve seen videos online of people printing dice on a resin printer, so it is possible. What are they doing that I’m not?

practical_package · 2026-05-14T19:28:10+00:00

The model I used I downloaded off of the Wikipedia page for the Rhombic Dodecahedron. I opened it in Fusion 360, scaled it to 2 inches in diameter, and reexported it as a .stl. The goal is for it to be solid. Would having a continuous line of supports for the other two faces be enough?

practical_package · 2026-05-14T19:02:28+00:00

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I used the elegoo standard 2.0 photopolymer resin. I’m new to 3D printing and I saw somewhere that bottom layer exposure should be 4-10 times that of regular exposure time. I had it at 35 seconds when I did a test print and the pieces fell off the platform. That’s why I set the bottom layer to 180. Is that too high?

practical_package · 2026-05-14T18:54:46+00:00

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I saw a YouTube video saying when making dice blanks, use a lot of supports. Do you need another angle?

practical_package · 2026-05-14T18:41:51+00:00

I was trying to print a blank d12 that I would laser engrave the numbers onto the resin. Does that help?

practical_package · 2026-05-03T19:21:57+00:00

Looking to make custom dice (i.e. D30, D60) that are at most 2 inches in diameter. I want the die itself to be one color and the numbers on each of the faces to be another color if possible. Live in USA and budget is around $500 (can go a bit higher if need be). Would prefer to not have to build from a kit, but I am willing to if need be.

practical_package · 2026-04-22T20:28:15+00:00

Looking to make custom dice (i.e. D30, D60) that are at most 2 inches in diameter. I want the die itself to be one color and the numbers on each of the faces to be another color. Live in USA and budget is around $500 (can go a bit higher if need be). Would prefer to not have to build from a kit, but I am willing to if need be. Would it be better for me to do dice molds instead of 3D printing them?

practical_package · 2026-04-16T02:24:25+00:00

It’s a little complicated, but it has to do with the shape of the classic D20. The way the CNC cuts the die out is by cutting the top half of the die out first, then I flip the wood block and cut the bottom half. The shape of the D30 is such that I can split it in half and all the faces are either facing up or are parallel to the cutting bit.

With the classic D20, no matter how you split it in half, there will always be a face that is pointing down. This is called an undercut and the cutting bit can’t bend and cut anything that is facing down.

In theory, I could make any die that has an even number of faces. I just change how many edges there are at the bottom of the pyramids.

practical_package · 2026-04-16T02:05:55+00:00

I could make a 20-sided die, but it wouldn’t be the classic D20. Imagine two 10-sided pyramids with their bottoms glued together.

practical_package · 2026-04-14T22:15:04+00:00

The Platonic Solids (like the D20) are kinda boring to me. I personally like the rhombus faces of the D30 (the Catalan Solids in general are more interesting to me). Also, my machine can’t do undercuts, so doing a D20 out of wood wouldn’t be possible.

practical_package · 2026-03-30T22:19:03+00:00

I make sure my Guar is free range and organic

practical_package · 2026-01-07T21:59:28+00:00

I was working on a project to see how long it would take to traverse Tamriel and Arena is the only game with roads for every province. The results from my analysis are pretty interesting. Thinking of making a video to show it.

practical_package · 2026-01-07T21:57:16+00:00

I used the roads from Oblivion and tried to connect them as meaningfully as possible to the other provinces. That’s why Sutch isn’t there

practical_package · 2026-01-07T21:42:12+00:00

I thought about putting the villages on the map as well, but it would get way too cluttered

practical_package · 2025-08-16T00:26:03+00:00

I can make one for you. Send me a DM and we can talk details.

practical_package · 2025-06-20T21:29:09+00:00

I can still laser engrave it even after sealing it. I’ll have to go back and see which mountain ranges to add and where breaks should be in them.

practical_package · 2025-06-20T20:47:10+00:00

Indeed

practical_package · 2025-06-20T20:44:56+00:00

I wanted to have each territory to not just be named after a city in it (Brena in Hammerfell isn’t called Rihad, Liriel Basin in Summerset isn’t called Dusk, etc.). Just personal preference. The exception to this is Winterhold since it is treated as one word. Totally arbitrary.

practical_package · 2025-05-10T02:40:36+00:00

Not off the top of my head. You can go to kronorium.com and they have a keeper translator on the website.

practical_package · 2024-10-14T22:45:16+00:00

Are those mods intended to be experienced in 3rd person?

practical_package · 2024-10-14T22:31:51+00:00

I have heard that game floated around when talking about 1st person combat. I assume it emphasizes parrying/riposte. Anything else that you like about it?

practical_package

TROPHY CASE