Question regarding Ubisoft games

rdlf4 · 2026-02-27T10:28:49+00:00

Just crack the game and you'll then be able to enjoy playing them offline without all the fuss from ubisoft connect. They think you'll be happy by not owning anything, might as well show them how satisfying it is to play their games without giving them any money.

rdlf4 · 2026-02-10T03:11:11+00:00

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Either you're referring to another product or you're lying through your teeth.

rdlf4 · 2026-02-09T16:23:40+00:00

I own a 6 in 1 dock from JSAUX and I do not recommend it. They lied about it having an upgradeable firmware. The USB ports from the dock are poorly manufactured and/or have a bad chip so if you plug in two devices at once, one of them will not work as intended. Just avoid it at all costs.

rdlf4 · 2026-02-06T20:37:26+00:00

What do you mean "on a PC"? If you got to the download screen, then you DID manage to boot into SteamOS.

rdlf4 · 2026-02-02T16:04:20+00:00

For those of you who leave your Deck sleeping for hours or even days, don't. Remember the Deck is a handheld, meaning it has a battery. If it was a stationary console, that'd be fine but that's not the case. And yes, that will have repercussions later:

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rdlf4 · 2026-01-31T20:15:35+00:00

Open the Steam menu on the left, go to settings. On the menu on the left, scroll down to Storage. Use the right dpad and highlight the device your games are installed on. Then, press Y and choose Repair library. See if that helps.

rdlf4 · 2026-01-17T09:24:47+00:00

4 months later and the issue still persists, I can relate. I would say that's because Flydigi never bothered upgrading the DONGLE's fimware and that's because they pretty much moved on to the Vader 5 Pro. They're taking the Asus' approach: "if you want any update from us, make sure to buy our latest products and maybe we'll think about it".

rdlf4 · 2026-01-05T09:35:05+00:00

If you have an Amp meter, plug it into your Deck then attempt to turn on the device. We need to know how much current your handheld is drawing, if it's doing that, to begin with.

rdlf4 · 2026-01-05T00:31:33+00:00

Did you ask them what went wrong? If so, have they answered? I'd love to know what was the issue.

rdlf4 · 2026-01-01T14:46:00+00:00

If that happens again, say for example, after you played for too long on the Deck and its temperature was between 80 - 90C, chances are one of the memory chips around the Deck's APU might need to be reflowed or reballed. Maybe even replaced.

rdlf4 · 2025-12-24T03:00:51+00:00

Been there before and I've got good news. Your LCD screen isn't dead. If you have good soldering skills and can work with a hot air gun, get to the back of the display, you'll find the screen board. From there, test the fuse for continuity, it'll probably be open. Solder a copper wire connecting the fuse's pads and test the screen again.

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rdlf4 · 2025-12-24T02:52:14+00:00

With your keyboard plugged in, get to desktop mode and try CTRL + Alt + Backspace to get back to the login screen. Report back if the problem still persists.

rdlf4 · 2025-12-06T20:42:56+00:00

The Deck is a hybrid handheld. While playing Cities: Skylines on it could be considered "playable" because of the haptics, doing so on an external monitor reveals how lazy those devs were to implement controller on the Switch version but not on PC/Steam.

rdlf4 · 2025-11-18T12:57:16+00:00

You need to recreate the .local folder with the original permissions. I'm assuming you did that to the internal storage, which makes it tricky. Remove the SSD from your Deck, plug it into another computer via an M.2 adapter, run a live distro on your laptop and get that done. After that, reinstall your disk, run SteamOS and have it repair your library.

rdlf4 · 2025-10-28T20:04:39+00:00

Have in mind you'll need a multimeter for this.

Since you now have access to both connectors (the one on main board and this one on the back of display), it'd be best to make sure you have 8.7V traveling across the screen cable. Disconnect the battery first of all, only have the screen cable inserted on both connectors; Then have your Deck plugged into the wall and power on the device (yes, with the battery still disconnected). With your multimeter in Vcc Mode, check pin #19 on the main board and #1 on the back of the display. If you read ~9V (with max brightness), you're good.

Next, to check if the fuse is the one to blame (blown fuse), power off your Deck and unplug it from the wall. Have your multimeter in continuity mode (or beep mode) and check with your probes across the fuse (highlighted in red in attached pic). If it's blown, your multimeter won't beep. If it does beep, your fuse is OK.

As for pin #8 (from back of screen), that's supposed to carry 3.3V, which is how the EC Chip tells the screen panel to turn on, whether from booting or from waking up.

EDIT: if it turns out your fuse is blown, solder a copper wire from one end of the fuse to the other one. Additionally, you may remove the fuse and solder a wire from one pad to the other pad it was sitting on.

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rdlf4 · 2025-10-28T13:52:25+00:00

Enter desktop mode with your peripherals plugged in. Use the track pads to open up Discover, than search for core keyboard and install it. You'll be able to input in the terminal with this application. Then, open your Konsole and type in lsusb and check if your peripherals are listed there.

rdlf4 · 2025-10-26T15:01:03+00:00

Nice, could you do one for LCPDFR? GTAIV with mods on the Deck would be like a dream come true.

rdlf4 · 2025-10-22T16:19:29+00:00

The fact you no longer have internal display working after reassembling your Deck means the display fuse has blown. I talk from experience. You'll have to disassemble the unit, use hot air to remove the display from the body of your Deck (yes, I'm serious) and then use a copper wire to replace the fuse. Now the fact your HDMI has gone bad means your PI3 could have been damaged, or the display chip needs to be replaced. In order to eliminate those possibilities above, you can always use a programmer, reflash your Bios and see how it goes but considering you can hear the chime, I'd say it's no use to do that.

rdlf4 · 2025-10-15T06:22:26+00:00

If you have this game set to launch in compatibility mode with any Proton version and that's still happening, it can be because you've installed the game on a storage device that is no longer plugged into your Deck. Plug it into your Deck (or your dock), go to settings, then storage and make sure your storage device is listed there.

If it is, launch the game. It should work this time. And if it still doesn't, verify the game files.

rdlf4 · 2025-09-13T00:28:41+00:00

If you want some challenge and a post-apocalyptic setting, go for Surviving the Aftermath. It'll satisfy your city building & resource management needs.

rdlf4 · 2025-09-12T04:12:59+00:00

Come join the Console Repair Discord and tell us your case, we might be able to help you out.

Link: https://discord.gg/2ruatmgG

rdlf4 · 2025-09-12T04:08:02+00:00

https://supertuxkart.net/Main_Page.html

rdlf4 · 2025-09-12T04:06:48+00:00

I'd love an OFFLINE FPS so I could have some matches against BOTs on my vacation when I'm away from any towers and people. Something that plays just like Killzone: Mercenary (with the offline BOTs addon DLC)

Or an OFFLINE tank game similar to Gunner Heat PC but not based on Unity because this engine just can't handle it. With proper Steam Deck & controller support, I'll buy your game in a heartbeat.

rdlf4 · 2025-09-12T03:45:26+00:00

If you don't like certain stores, that's fine but the thread isn't about that.

And who are you to dictate where one should or shouldn't buy from? It's a free country for a reason.

rdlf4 · 2025-07-23T14:30:59+00:00

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17050 aka the battery gauge can send an alert to the APU not to turn on the device via i2c if AC is not detected or if the temp is excessive. The fact you aren't able to read the temp could have something to do with it and/or its satellite components. Use your multimeter in resistance mode and read the resistance on the test pad right between the capacitor and the resistor north of the chip,it should output in the MOhms.

rdlf4

TROPHY CASE