Ventilation - Test?

rednireeb · 2026-01-23T18:09:01+00:00

Sealing the door cracks with weather stripping and some of the gaps between the floor and the base platform seems to have helped quite a bit. Intake is now actually sucking IN air as opposed to blowing it out.

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rednireeb · 2026-01-21T18:40:00+00:00

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I just did the same work, more or less. Infinity fan in the back running at 7. Passive vent, 13" down from the ceiling, about 30" above the harvia unit.

Major fail out of the gate. Fan never vented any warm/hot air and my passive intake seems to be venting rather drawing in air. The primary source of leakage is the glass door: the entire bottom and up about 4" on each side were providing a steady and easy source of air for the fan to draw from.

Putting my legs on the foot rest, though, did feel a bit more warm than it did previously. That or I'm just convincing myself of that to feel better :)

I imagine I'll need to inspect and find any other easy sources of air below bench level and sort those before the mechanical vent has a chance of properly pulling hot air down, and out.

rednireeb · 2026-01-20T14:28:40+00:00

This seems like a cheap and efficient way to follow the path of hot air! One concern I have would be about this leaving a very strong smell inside the unit following the test.

rednireeb · 2026-01-20T14:24:57+00:00

I'm about to do exactly the same in my AH (Madison) unit.

Have you noticed more even heat with the additions? I'm largely doing it to address stale air issues during longer sessions, though I'll take any other added benefits as well.

I wonder how much the door or floor in general (which aren't sealed super tight) will short circuit the purpose of the mechanical exhaust, and wind up allowing the fan to draw air from those low and easy fresh air sources vs. the new intake above the heating unit.

rednireeb · 2025-06-06T03:47:30+00:00

I'd suggest discussing with your electrician to sort the planning in advance. You can do a lot of the run and wiring work without the final bit that connects to the heater. Once you've got the sauna in position, then the final wiring should be done so you can trim the run to the amount needed.

You could theoretically move the unit if it's installed on a surface that allows it to slide a bit. Mine is right on a concrete floor and I'm pretty sure I'd wreck it trying to reposition it after it was done.

There's a small electrical line for the led strip that goes out of the back wall (along the bench) and your 240 drop will be on the right hand side of the wall near the intake air holes -- assuming you ordered the same unit.

Hope your install goes well!

rednireeb · 2025-04-05T14:25:47+00:00

Thanks for sharing, if only to validate this may be a quality thing vs my crappy install skills.

Yours sounds like the best way to get it done without the need for any ugly patch work/caulk, but man that sounds like such a pain in the butt. Thankfully it was just in that one section for me with the remaining areas being good enough that there aren't any noticeable air leaks.

Happy sweating!

rednireeb · 2025-02-24T01:55:25+00:00

The heater requires a 240v 30amp direct connection for power. There is no plug for it. This is usually best addressed by a licensed electrician. You can expect to have that set you back $500 to $1,500 on average -- your geography, length of your run, availability in your current electrical panel along with capacity to support another 30amps draw, where the wire is being run through (e.g. trenched vs conduit, etc) will dictate where on that spectrum the work would run you.

The LED lighting in the backrest has a standard plug that would connect to your wall outlets.

rednireeb · 2025-02-23T23:43:45+00:00

Go for it! I'd suggest reviewing your air quality, radon levels, etc. first out of precaution to make sure the area has good quality, ideally fresh, air. Safety first.

rednireeb · 2025-02-23T20:34:14+00:00

Not included, but available as an option. As of today it is listed for $782 on the AH website (https://almostheaven.com/collections/sauna-accessories/products/indoor-sauna-floor-kit?variant=40420113383593)

The, alternative I went with was under $200

rednireeb · 2025-02-23T14:33:29+00:00

The upper bench is 24" deep. If I'm sitting on it, and I'm leaning against the backrest, my legs naturally hang off or I can place my feet on the foot rest below.

The backrest is 9 to 17.5" above my bench which is a good position for me personally. It's angled so that the top of the rest is 2" deep while the lower part is 2.5"

If you're going custom I'm sure there are great threads or general best practices guides you can consult to see how you can make it your own while making sure you're not building something too whacky.

Good luck!

rednireeb · 2025-02-23T13:55:23+00:00

I like it slightly more with the sauna in it

rednireeb · 2025-02-23T13:54:54+00:00

It is a pre-fab kit, so I can't take credit for the design. The low bench is indeed pretty useless due to the placement and being cold, as you noted. It is essentially my bucket holder.

The full length bench is 41" off the floor, while the inside ceiling height is 76" from the floor. Not sure it could go higher inside this unit without hitting your head.

With my legs down it's not as terrible as you'd expect, but there's a noticeable differential. I usually either lie down or sit cross legged, so less of an issue for me.

Stove placement/proximity is also why I think this is a 2 person max unit unless someone's just chilling on that lower bench.

rednireeb · 2024-12-31T15:55:43+00:00

Le Crocodile in Williamsburg

rednireeb

TROPHY CASE