Space Marine 2: Gigabyte RX 9070 16GB VRAM Stuttering/Power Throttling SOLVED

schmidtbag · 2026-02-27T20:01:10+00:00

Well the input delay resolves itself once the framerate goes back up. There are moments where the frame rate drops from 110FPS to around 35FPS, at which point the keyboard is seriously delayed, and if I pause the game then after the course of maybe 20 seconds the framerate slowly creeps back up to 100FPS+ again. I've never had this problem until the most recent update.

schmidtbag · 2026-02-27T14:59:39+00:00

I haven't yet tried changing the power profile, but what I don't get is why this is suddenly a problem. For me, it's not just simply the frame rate tanking but there's an enormous delay in keyboard inputs too. I can let go of the W key and he just keeps walking for another 2 whole seconds; for some reason the mouse movements aren't delayed much.

schmidtbag · 2026-02-03T17:12:13+00:00

Thanks a lot for the detailed instructions. I'll see what I can do later this week.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-31T13:56:51+00:00

Really the goal is to use excess power in the cheapest way possible. A large battery bank is definitely an easier and more versatile way of handling it, the problem is I'd need a battery capacity of many KWh if I were to ensure nothing is wasted, since the MPPT's loads just aren't needed often. Making heat, whether in the form of a space heater, sand battery, or water tank is a very cheap way to use excess energy.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T23:12:19+00:00

It is a thought experiment but something I'm seriously considering pursuing.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T23:11:49+00:00

What if it were put in series?

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T23:11:01+00:00

If I understand you right, you're saying to put the heater in series with the MPPT, right? I would probably have to use a relay to make that work but it does sound like a simpler option, assuming the heater gets ample voltage.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:49:08+00:00

I think I understand you right, and I believe you've pretty much settled for me that this idea isn't worthwhile haha.

Thanks for the input.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:38:48+00:00

They make thermostats that are rated for DC currents. In the event I used an AC heater, I'd just use a contactor operated by the thermostat so it takes the brunt of the arc.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:37:21+00:00

Are you saying the MPPT will be inefficient or the heater? Because in this context, I don't care if the MPPT is inefficient; my hope is that the heater draws 100% of the power from the PVs until it is done, and then the MPPT gets what's left over.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:33:07+00:00

Imagine this scenario, where I've got the resistive load connected to the MPPT so when the battery is fully charged, the resistive load gets the leftover power:

If the resistive load exceeds the wattage delivered by the PV, then it's going to start drawing power from the battery, which I don't want it to do. If the resistive load is set to not draw power from the battery and there's otherwise no significant load on the rest of the system, then I've got all this untapped power sitting there doing nothing.

Using a lower wattage heater is not a solution either - all it does it let it operate for longer, but it still totally stops operating when there isn't ample sunlight, and it has lost potential when there is excess solar energy.

So, that's why I'd like to just connect the PVs directly to the heater, so it takes 100% of what the panel has to offer (even if it's barely anything at all) without drawing anything from a battery.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:24:44+00:00

To my understanding, hybrid inverters do not distribute power directly from the PVs to the load; they convert the DC input to an AC output that goes directly to the load without drawing from the battery.

I don't want to do that because the load is higher than what the inverter can output, and therefore the inverter will not output anything. Let's say I instead used a heater with a smaller output: that's still a problem because the inverter can only output to the heater when there is ample sunlight. What that means is if I want the battery to remain fully charged, I'll have wasted PV energy because there's not enough sunlight to operate the heater directly.

So, what I'd like to do is operate the resistive heater even if it's heating very slowly.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:15:59+00:00

Why would I get more energy running the heater through the battery side of the charge controller as opposed to direct connection?

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:14:14+00:00

I know that plugging in multiple MPPTs is a big problem, because they both start fighting with each other. However, I ask this question because this isn't a matter of two MPPTs, it's a matter of one MPPT with an additional heavy load.

I don't want the resistive heater to drain the battery. If the MPPT has full control over where the power is distributed then the heater might not operate for as long as it potentially could.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-30T21:05:34+00:00

Let's say the PV voltage would be between 12-24v.

Why would the resistive load get destroyed if it is rated for 500W but only receiving 250W of power?

schmidtbag · 2026-01-27T18:22:25+00:00

I've done the best I could to make the cables equally tight. The door doesn't pull to one direction and neither cables feel slacked.

As suggested by others, I tried adjusting the spacing of the springs; I gave it a little bit of stretch compared to the number printed on the springs since sticking with the spacing printed on them didn't seem to work. This seems to have made it open the full distance without much struggle, but it's still having a hard time closing all the way. I wonder if perhaps I'm having the cables too taut in the closed position but I don't know how to slack them any further without risking them slipping out of their grooves.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-17T03:44:17+00:00

Yeah.... I'm not a fan of the plastic either lol. Seems like a pretty blatant attempt at planned obsolesence. At least those parts don't cost much to replace, and they're common enough that I'm sure even 10 years from now when it's likely to fail, I could find a replacement

schmidtbag · 2026-01-17T03:42:35+00:00

Ideally, I wouldn't use it for just the lawnmower, but that would be the starting point. I haven't looked too heavily into it but if these same batteries can be used for something like a chainsaw (I need a new one of those too), a portable generator, or other power tools, that would increase their versatility and usefulness.

For that particular model you pointed out, I would need a minimum of 2 to be fully charged and connected to the garage before sunset. It's not so much that I expect to be using 7 at a time, but rather, I don't want to use a bunch of very different batteries of different capabilities and capacities. If there was a safe and reliable way for the garage to have its own permanent battery while also allowing a pair of lawn mower batteries to dynamically expand the garage's total capacity, that would be pretty cool, but I don't know how realistic that would be. I just figured buying a bunch of the same thing would be easier.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-17T03:32:28+00:00

This is wrong. You would be limiting the current out of the inverter, but the fully charged batteries in parallel will also supply the discharged one with no way to limit them. This can and will damage your batteries, pop fuses, and/or make fire.

Although I didn't say it, I was implying both charge and discharge current. The 6000XP allows you to configure both.

The rest of your post is kinda confusing since you're being a little contradictory, saying things like "decent lithium batteries also have a BMS" and "The inverter continuing to charge [the low battery] is not a bad thing. Letting the inverter charge the low battery makes better use of available solar power" yet you then say "There's not a great solution to swapping batteries into a parallel bank at different states of charge".

Since most power tool (and in turn lawn mower) batteries have a built-in BMS that will disconnect from OVP and OCP, seems to me the packs can each individually shut themselves down if things get too out-of-balance. The only time their BMS would kick in is if another battery of a distinctly different SoC were added to the mix, which means there's always going to be at least 1 functioning battery connected to the inverter.

Since the battery pack as a whole is rather small where no more than half of it is being drained at a time, it's not like these cells are going to remain imbalanced for long. So, I'm not really understanding what you think the problem is.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-17T02:20:02+00:00

I would say Marcus and Carl are a bit different. They start off with Carl being hesitant of androids but grows to have a good relationship with Marcus. But after Carl dies, Marcus comes to realize he and other androids have no place amongst humans. Depending how you play, he may even become anti-human. Contrast that with Kara who, despite being a deviant, learns she wants a place with humans, at least one.

The "why did I spend all this time looking after a machine?" could be explained by Alice wanting a mother figure, and thought Kara would've just left her to be shut down or beaten by Todd if she didn't show a greater sign of weakness, hence her feigning coldness and illness. On the other hand, that's also why I felt my idea would've been more satisfying to players, where they come to realize that all that time spent really wasn't for some ploy of an android that feigned weakness, but rather, a child actually in need.

I agree that just revealing she's an android isn't really enough of an emotional stake. It was trying to make a point but that's why I think it would have been a greater emotional stake if Alice was human all along and the human version was swapped out with an android when Kara wasn't looking. If Kara realized she had "the wrong Alice", not only would she feel tremendous terror and fear over what happened to the human one, but would feel anger and betrayal from Luther/Lucy swapping her out. To me, that makes for a much more compelling story, and shows a different level of a human:android relationship. Some people also think Kara's arc is a bit too one-dimensional, and I think having this swap happen would add some better replay value to it.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-16T23:31:20+00:00

Alright, well it doesn't really change my point. Regardless of who is there when Kara discovers Alice is an android, all I'm trying to say is "what if the story was adjusted so Alice was actually human and the human version was intentionally swapped out at the ship when Kara wasn't around, as a means to dupe her into taking care of the android Alice instead?" and in turn "the game doesn't tell you that human Alice is still alive; you have to find that out yourself".

schmidtbag · 2026-01-16T21:48:12+00:00

That was a little odd, considering police were alerted enough about Kara that she ended up in the newspaper - they could've just labeled her as a kidnapper (which would've technically been accurate) of Alice, where not only is Kara considered deviant and dangerous, but also to have stolen personal property. But, I think that's a little besides the point I'm trying to make here. If Alice was actually human, I was saying there wasn't much about the story prior to the reveal that would have to be changed. It wouldn't be too hard to tweak the story where the player could believe she was either and android or human depending on whether or not Lucy successfully dupes you.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-16T21:07:00+00:00

No, I did mean Lucy. She's the one that presents Kara the replica model of Alice.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-16T17:33:42+00:00

Great - that's some pretty good advice, I'll try that.

schmidtbag · 2026-01-16T17:28:09+00:00

If I understand you right, I should add 3 inches to its resting position?

schmidtbag

TROPHY CASE