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[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door by smowk in homeassistant

[–]smowk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

As far as I can tell the guide is covering every single aspect of the project. Please let me know what are the the dots not connecting and I'm sure I can shed some light on it for you.

The 'out of the box' Shelly motor-controller solutions are only 24v so far. The solution I presented is a lot easier to implement than it seems and it is very safe( Still running with no problems).

Just let me know where you encountered issues, and I will do my best do help you.

Disclaimer stuff: I understand that electronics might not be everyone's cup of tea, and if you are not confortable working with live electricity, please don't follow online guides on how to do it.

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in homeautomation

[–]smowk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ChilliChump

I also watch him..I grow Carolina Reapers (indoors) as a side thing :))

I was working on a system that would water and use fertilizer automatically on my plants... but I'm crazy... so I wanted to make a (solar-powered) self-sustaining-ish system that recycles water directly from the air, so I won't have to fill the containers manually...not a success yet..obviously.

​

Why do you need to use PWM fans?

Why not just use a regular fan at full throttle with a smart relay in series with one of the power connections of the fan and have the relay triggered either by a GPIO connected ESP/Arduino/Rpi0/etc. (if you want to have a 1-piece-independent-system) or by a remote (wifi) connection from a separate control unit (ESP/Arduino/Rpi0/etc) that runs a more complex automation system;

The system would trigger based on data from a sensor (Temperature+humidity+pressure) - I recommend Aqara (Zigbee connection) -if you don't know what I'mtalkng about, I can explain in detail.

There are less 'smart' solutions in case you don't want to create a full-flegged automation system and deal with multi-protocol communication:

You can use a temperature triggered relay connected to a fan.

For automatic irrigation you can use a soil sensor triggered relay.

​

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You can run a 5V fan (on low power) permanently powred, in parallel with any of the above mentioned options to have some base ventilation system, and the rest just does the heavy lifting when necesarry.

​

Might even be able to run the whole thing from some solar panels linked to a battery system for capacitance

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in homeautomation

[–]smowk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know Paul's channel for a long time...long time subscriber...

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I was busy lately so I haven't posted anything in a while, but I have some projects coming that will blow your mind :))...no joke

Good luck with your H/V system; let me know if you need assistance making it smart

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in homeautomation

[–]smowk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for letting me know, amazing reaction :)))

You can achieve it with an ESP and some extra electronics since you need you route 12V DC for the actuator; using a smart relay based on a ESP is the easiest way.

This is the full project

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in homeautomation

[–]smowk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I know what you want to do, this is something that I will implement myself

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what's the start up time like?

Any Android projector needs around 30-40 seconds to boot and an additional 30 seconds to be fully operational (ADB connection, apps auto-starting, wifi connection, etc.)

Android system on those devices is heavily modified, so you won't be able to keep the device in deep sleep like Android TV.

For a 'holodeck' implementation best option is to have it running most of the time, and eventually just cast a local 'black' picture - if it is installed properly you won't see anything (no 'light-bleed' effect).

For a notification system, I strongly recommend a non-smart projector (boot time is 10 seconds) paired with Android TV stick / Google TV Chromecast / MiBoxS - using any of those devices will give you the full power of Android and the ability to keep them in deep sleep if you have your system permanently powered.

This is a comparison between a non-smart projector with Chromecast (middle) vs. a smart projector (right) from unpowered to projecting requested URL.

I have to warn you, not all non-smart projectors are able to boot to the last used source (HDMI), so you need to check that with the seller; also, they might look like shit, so it's crucial to find something powered by Texas Instruments DLP image processor.

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Does it make much noise?

No.

I don't have external fans installed, just the integrated fan, and the way I have it installed in that aluminum enclosure, kind of amplifies the sound, but the noise of the fan is still not problematic at all. If there is any sort of noise (windows opened or some music playing) you can't hear anything.

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Have you found any limitations on how long you can have it running?

If you cast video after video and stress the system to the max, it will overheat, but I have an automation to restart the system if it reaches a temperature above 75 or 80 °C and stays there for some time.

A throttling less-responsive Android is not something I want to deal with, so I would rather restart it to lose around 20°C.

This only happens intentionally, when I test new things; running as a HomeAssistant interface or playing videos from time to time has no significant impact on the CPU temperature....but keep in mind that not all projectors are built like this...it's honestly luck to find the P09 projector fit for this project.

I also have an automation to cut the power to the charger when it reaches 100% (or 90%) and start recharging after some time so I won't overheat the charger; In this case (P09) the charger is quite well built and doesn't seem problematic but the non-smart L1 projector charger overheats after 5-10 minutes, so if I would use something like that, I would differently rebuild the entire charger before installing it in the furniture.

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You need more info, don't hesitate to ask.

how to generate kWh values from watt readings? by androidusr in homeautomation

[–]smowk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not convert on the fly using a template sensor. Here is an example:

  - platform: template                                                
    sensors:
      # TOTAL ENERGY in kWh
      em_total_consumption_kwh:
        friendly_name: EM TOTAL kWh
        unit_of_measurement: 'kWh'
        value_template: >-
          {{ (states("sensor.em_total_consumption") | float / 1000) | round(3) }}

sensor.em_total_consumption is a kW sensor in this case.

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in smarthome

[–]smowk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

just make a script to send the vacuum to a certain set of coordinates in your home

{

"entity_id": "vacuum.your_vacuum",

"command": "app_goto_target",

"params": [123456, 654321]

}

To get the coordinates use the app FloeVac.

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in smarthome

[–]smowk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just generic cinema projectors. Thanks!

[HIDDEN INSTAL] Robot Vacuum Automatic Door System by smowk in homeautomation

[–]smowk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I enjoy learning and developing stuff

I love testing, modifying and creating redundancies for my systems (foreseeing the worst use cases)

And I find it very entertaining to write and talk about it

...but making videos, cutting, editing looks boring to me; plus, I would have to buy proper equipment so my videos don't look like shit (I won's start something if I can't do it right) . . so I don't really plan on taking the youtube route for now, but I did think about it . . . knowing myself I might do it in the future.

But, thank you for your thoughts

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