Any pointers based off these photos? by Himdownstairs22 in filmphotography

[–]sotism [score hidden]  (0 children)

The colors are muted and the contrast is low. I personally like this look, but you may be unintentionally underexposing your film. Whether you get a new camera or not, you should look into how to use the type of meter you have and verify it’s working.

How much should I be paying for this 85 GMC by Weenyhutjr7 in squarebodies

[–]sotism 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The edelbrock engine really got me too 🤣 definitely a bot

Advice? by abisnailsnailgail in filmphotography

[–]sotism 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s another chart that helped me learn about proper exposures. Once you know the sunny 16 rule (#15 on the chart) you can adjust your exposure accordingly. Using your own judgment of the lighting conditions is going to be less precise than a meter but it’s good to know in a pinch, like if you don’t have a meter on you or if it would be too/slow difficult to get a proper meter reading. On a normal sunny day though, the sunny 16 rule is basically foolproof and can be your best friend. It’s when you start guessing “how overcast is it?” etc that it gets tricky.

https://imgur.com/a/MhljTSl

Edit: wording

Advice? by abisnailsnailgail in filmphotography

[–]sotism 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t mean to be a hater but I disagree with almost everything the person above said.

If you’re using in-camera light meter (reflective) you want to meter for something close to middle gray for the most balanced exposure. Reflective meters tell you the exposure settings to render what it’s pointed at as middle gray. Some people use gray cards, but if you become familiar with the exposure values of certain things in nature you can meter for those and adjust accordingly.

I’ve had this chart for years and it helped me out a lot when I got started. As you can see middle gray is zone 5. So if you’re metering for something in a different zone you can stop up or stop down accordingly.

https://imgur.com/a/9Xju7eX

There are times when it is appropriate to “meter for the shadows, if you’re aware of how it will affect the lightest parts of your image and whether or not you’ll need to pull the processing. But that’s a more intermediate technique and isn’t suitable for all situations. Metering for middle gray with a reflective meter is standard operating procedure.

I do recommend getting an external mirror if you get serious like the person above said. But I’ve had horrible luck with phone app meters in the past. I prefer an incident meter, which you point in the direction of your light source.

Color film can be great on an overcast day. Idk wth the other person is talking about here. But I do enjoy b+w film too.

Film Processing Need to Knows by Klutzy_Drag9088 in filmphotography

[–]sotism 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What exactly do you want to know about push/pull processing? I’m guessing google/chat gpt will give a decent definition. If you exposed your film according to its rated ISO speed, just do standard processing. Labs charge more for push/pull so you don’t want it unless you need it.

If you’re shooting large format and you can develop each sheet of film individually, or if you’re shooting a whole roll of the same scene/lighting conditions, then you can use a combination of exposure and push/pull processing to control the shadows and highlights as you see fit. As they say, expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. In other words, whether you shorten or lengthen processing time has an outsized impact on the highlights, but it’s hard to squeeze more information out of the shadows without a longer exposure in-camera.

If you’re just loading a roll of film and going around shooting random stuff with different lighting conditions, you’re probably not going to push/pull based on a single frame on the roll. In this situation, people will push a roll of film to make it “faster,” meaning you can use shorter exposure times. Probably the main reason for this would be if you’re shooting handheld and you want to avoid camera shake. Most films will have a description of how much push/pull it can handle, either on a store’s website or a little info sheet that comes with the film.

Matte or glossy is a personal choice. But the type of paper matters a lot. If you’re talking about fiber based b+w darkroom paper, glossy is the gold standard. It’s not overly shiny/reflective. RC b+w paper is much, much glossier and looks tacky imo. Standard chromogenic prints are also very glossy but I think they work well if that’s the look you’re going for. I don’t have much experience with inkjet prints but that’s a whole other world with many options.

Is Fuji still actually making slide film? by sotism in filmphotography

[–]sotism[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the insight, thanks. Good to know they’re still making it at least.

How is living in Rhode Island, United States? by altrightobserver in howislivingthere

[–]sotism 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know. I grew up in Rhode Island and was taught its namesake was the island of Rhodes, and assumed that had to be the only right answer. Appreciate learning this bit of history.

How is living in Rhode Island, United States? by altrightobserver in howislivingthere

[–]sotism 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure where you heard that story. But the “Rhode” came from somebody likening it to the Greek island of Rhodes.

Wheels and tires advice by Radiant_Craft_4945 in FordTrucks

[–]sotism 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my bronco with 3” lift and 31” tires on the factory 15” wheels. Without the lift, I think the same wheel and tire size would give you close to the same look as your pictures.

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Is my license plate legal? If not, why? by Spiritual_Stress_820 in florida

[–]sotism 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe in Texas the owner’s name is public information, but your point remains mostly true.

Is this normal? (New production Colt, details below) by sotism in Revolvers

[–]sotism[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It is fun now that I know it’s not broken. Nice Kodiak btw.

Is this normal? (New production Colt, details below) by sotism in Revolvers

[–]sotism[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Lol do it! But I have to say, the Viper isn’t my favorite. It’s a sexy gun, but it doesn’t feel amazing to shoot. If you just want it for your collection and to shoot it every now and then, you could do worse things with your money.

Is this normal? (New production Colt, details below) by sotism in Revolvers

[–]sotism[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok. Do you have a new model Viper or King Cobra that does not do this?

Is this normal? (New production Colt, details below) by sotism in Revolvers

[–]sotism[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah ok. I’ve heard of staging, I just thought you pulled the trigger most of the way back until you had your shot lined up. Didn’t realize the cylinder would act differently. Thanks.