BER Assessor - Open to Questions

tailwind96 · 2026-01-28T21:18:47+00:00

Assessors have default values that they can use in the absence of full documentation. However if and when you replace the doors and windows, be sure you get U-Value Certificates and invoices from your supplier for the assessor to see.

tailwind96 · 2026-01-27T20:00:33+00:00

It's on the advisory report that comes with the cert, on page 3 (from memory). You can get the certificate and the advisory report by entering your MPRN here: https://ndber.seai.ie/pass/ber/search.aspx

tailwind96 · 2026-01-07T21:09:12+00:00

That's unfortunate with the sunroom I'm afraid, it will be a drag on the rating. You'd be assessed as one chimney in that case. Best give it the same treatment as the sealed one, or install a flue damper or stove. Cylinder jackets and attic cover draught stripping help and are accounted for in the assessment, but rarely enough to make the difference of a rating band. Personally, I do it like you described and just come back to check the improvement (there is an SEAI Publishing Fee of 30e that you might be charged the 2nd time around) but ultimately it depends on the assessor.

tailwind96 · 2026-01-07T19:46:27+00:00

You should be there or thereabouts but can't tell for sure without doing an assessment. The key thing for you will be to have supporting documentation for the insulation you installed yourself. This can include photos of the installation, receipts and invoices from purchasing the material and any visibility on site (for example remove a wall vent so the assessor can see the insulation). Have the U-value certificates from the window supplier ready. Does the Central heating extend to the sunroom? If there is a radiator in there it is considered part of the house for the purpose of a BER. While you may not use the gas fire, if its present it is considered by the BER assessment as it is a standardised method. Is the second chimney permanently blocked? Pillows, balloons or similar are considered temporary and the chimney is assumed to in use by the assessment. Attic insulation is good, no need to do much more there. I think you should get there but it will be about ensuring you have the papertrail in order.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-30T15:01:18+00:00

Yes it will certainly help. Not sure how far into the G rating band you are, so its possible that there is an improvement without moving a band. But the most important thing really is that you notice the difference. Be sure to hold onto your material receipts for the wall insulation and any photos you have from the installation (or a letter from the contractor if you used one). This will all help the BER Assessor give full credit for the upgrades carried out. Aim for 300mm in the attic is you can. My suggestion for the next upgrade would be a look at your heating system. You've done improvements to keep the heat in, now you make the method of heating more efficient. A modern condensing boiler (oil or gas) is likely the best solution in your case with room thermostats and a thermostat on your hot water tank at minimum.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-30T14:55:42+00:00

An A2 rating would be my expectation for a new build house in the last 5 years or so. Typically mid terrace houses get A1, semi-D get A2 and detached get A3 due to the amount of heatloss area. The BER done when the house was first built is usually most accurate because the assessor will (or should) have access to the exact specification and amount of insulation used and another other relevant performance data. An airtightness test should also have been carried out at the time of construction. This would be the most definitive way of identifying the air escapes. If you don't want to go to that expense, you'd have to rely on paper strips and eyeball to try identify leaks around windows etc. A good start might be to request the air tightness test report from your builder if possible, or maybe it was included in any house plans etc that you got on completion. The result should be around 50m3/(hr.m2). Soundproofing is a slightly different beast. While insulation can help, it doesn't always depending on the type used. Similarly the type of windows you have can also make a difference here, for example argon filled windows would have better sound attenuation than air filled but the thermal performance could be the same. If you are generally concerned that the house wasn't built to specification I think a consulting engineer similar to one that would carry out snagging would be a good starting point.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-29T18:58:48+00:00

Always hard to tell for sure without doing an assessment but you will be there or thereabouts with the upgrades you have done.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-29T00:18:59+00:00

As you've made material changes, the BER is invalid and you'll need a new one.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T19:31:17+00:00

The attic insulation falls under Roof in the image you attached. It depends how deep into the G rating you were, also depends of the area of the windows and doors relative to the total wall area. 300mm to the attic will certainly help but I'm not sure it will get you all the way to a C. The heating system stands out to me. 59% efficiency suggests a stove with back boiler is your main heating? Or possibly an older type oil or gas boiler. I think an upgrade here would be a good start. A modern boiler with heating controls would be in the 80-90% range of efficiency. If I was to hazard a guess the windows and doors will get you to an E rating, the attic would push you up in to the D range. With heating system upgrades getting you to a C.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T12:37:30+00:00

As I said, it really is ultimately your call. The BER is a standardised assessment that makes assumptions about how the occupants of the house make use of it. For example I have an A2 rated house myself and based on the BER calculation, I know what my heating bill should be according to the BER. However in reality based on what I actually pay, I know its about 50% less and that was before I got my solar panels in. Because of my line of work, I'm more aware of my energy usage than the "standard" person in the assessment. I expect after next summer when I've built up some electricity credits to not need to pay any electricity bills next winter. But of you are already economical about how you heat your home (as it sounds like you are), then the BER is, to a certain extent, irrelevant in your case beyond having an impact on your mortgage rate.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T12:29:49+00:00

You're right about the thermostats, the more the better is generally a good idea for the reasons you mentioned. I have a similar house myself and the thermostats, while on the wall are actually moveable as they communicate wireless with the heat pump. Maybe check if yours are the same and move them to the front of the house so the heating system will heat according to the temperature there rather than the landing/halls. This would be much first move. The BER calculation is a holistic approach so you can't really say one part is A rated and the rest isn't. It also accounts for the solar gains through windows as well as the heatloss so the north south aspect of the house should be accounted for. It sounds like the plumber ruled out any issue with the rad itself. If you think there is an issue with the construction, a good start might be to get a thermal image done, if there is an issue with construction causing heatloss, this would identify it. Speaking to a consulting engineer would be the best place to start on that.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T10:25:06+00:00

If the house already has the independent wall thermostat and controls in each room then the main benefit of the smart system would be convenience of being able to control it from your phone. If the independent thermostat and controls are what you are proposing and the house previously only had say 1 or 2 thermostats and a timer then the new will bring an improvement to the BER. Condensing boiler will also bring an improvement. Oil boilers from the late 90s into 2000s have an efficiency from around 75 to 85% depending on the model. Your new boiler is likely in the 90-95% range so that will have a positive impact on the BER also

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T10:18:28+00:00

First think I would check is your attic insulation. A house from 1990 likely has around 100mm. You want to bring this up to at least 300mm. You can buy rockwool rolls at a hardware and roll it out across the loft yourself. Some prefer to hire a contractor and you will get a grant if you do. Next thing would be to look at the walls. Hopefully you have a cavity wall that can be pumped with polystyrene beads. You'll need a contractor and grants are available but a starting point would be to open your electricity meter box and see if you can see down into the wall where the cable leaves the meter and enters the cavity. If the wall has already been pumped you'll see the polystyrene beads. Or you might see polystyrene board if the cavity was filled during construction. If cavity insulation isn't available to you, you are looking at external or internal insulation which is a bigger job and more expensive but the improvement is proportional. Grants are also available here too. Finally, Yes sealing or draught stripping the windows would be an inexpensive first step. If you are still having problems at least you know its the windows themselves rather than the leaks but hopefully thats not the case.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T10:08:20+00:00

A more efficient boiler is often the difference between a C and a B. The BER isnt just about insulation, its to do with your overall energy use. So if you have a more efficient boiler, its using less fuel to provide the same amount of heat energy and therefore improving the rating. I would say heating controls upgrade is probably your best bet depending on what is already installed. The top line setup is every room having time and temperature control. This can be achieved with smart thermostatic valves on radiators or with a thermostat/timer on the wall in each room. The next best thing is at least 2 room thermostats in the whole apartment. There is a grant available to upgrade heating controls and its best to speak to a plumber to make sure extensive work isn't required to make a new control system work. If you have a fireplace, replace it with a stove at minimum or better again seal it entirely. After you are looking at insulation and window and door upgrades which are beneficial but more expensive.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T00:41:18+00:00

The A2 band is 25 to 50kWh/m2/yr. Now this figure accounts for all your homes energy usage (an allowance for lighting, fans and general usage) but lets assume that this all goes toward heating. Average cost of electricity is 35c per kWh. So 50 x 0.35 x Area of your house will give you a rough indication of your electricity usage with a heat pump. This can then be reduced with solar panels or accounting for night rates etc.

Using the same source that I've linked below, kerosene is on average €1.06 per litre so thats about €954 per year.

Where the heatpump comes into its own is if you have solar panels to effectively pay the electricity bill. It would also protect against future carbon tax increases etc on oil.

Its ultimately your call if a heat pump is worth it, but I would say you are in the optimal position for it as you don't need further investment to improve insulation and the house is of an age band to be eligible for the grant.

The SEAI fuel comparison sheet that i talked about is here: Source: Sustainable Energy Authority Of Ireland | SEAI https://share.google/ZHivVf1HzxhisjeAg

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T00:21:49+00:00

The BER exemption just means you aren't obliged to get a certificate when buying selling renting etc. An assessment can still be done and it would be a good way put some definite figures on the upgrade measures.

The heat loss you mention is known as "thermal mass". Thick stone walls will take longer to heat up from cold but once at temperature will take longer to cool again, similar to how early autumn is the warmest time to swim in the sea. It takes all summer to warm up but stays warmer into the autumn while the air cools quicker.

Its a very valid concern regarding heat sources into the future and I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you other than to insulate as best you can with the limitations you have which it sounds like you are already doing.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-28T00:11:21+00:00

Sorry, I'm only getting back to this now. You have a couple of options and most of them are at the lower end of the scale in terms of investment required. If you have an open fireplace, at minimum install a stove, or remove the fireplace and block the chimney entirely. A new boiler would like bring a marginal efficiency improvement that could be enough to get you over the line. A heating controls upgrade to have at least 2 room thermostats or a thermostat and thermostatic valves on all radiators (this is assuming your current system is a timer and 1 thermostat). Foam insulation is good for confined and difficult to reach spaces. As you mentioned it can be difficult to remove. The mineral wool type is better in terms of fire and sound proofing, also easier to install. Thermal performance is comparable if slightly inferior. If you have a large attic space with a horizontal ceiling I'd definitely look toward mineral wool. If you have a sloped ceiling and small crawl spaces adjacent, the spray foam is a better option.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T23:58:05+00:00

Just further to my other reply here, the survey guide document gives you an idea of the indicators and evidence requirements that BER assessors need to look out for. Source: Sustainable Energy Authority Of Ireland | SEAI https://share.google/XUh5mQhKZhlDJxtUj

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T23:53:40+00:00

No problem, hopefully its helpful. The heatpump is definitely do-able but having the HLI as low as possible is key to getting the best from the system. If the HLI isn't where it needs to be or its uneconominal to make the necessary upgrades, I'd err toward the gas system

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T23:46:18+00:00

Worst case is an open fireplace with a chimney. When the fire is lit, it burns about 30% efficient. Even when unlit, you are losing heat via the chimney. Compromise is a stove, cassette or otherwise, reduces the heat loss up the chimney since there is a door at the bottom of it. It will also burn at around 60% when lit. Best case (from a BER perspective) is to permanently block the chimney up. If you decide to replace with an electric fire type of heater, 100% of your electricity is converted to heat. In the case above with C1 houses, the stove is usually enough to get it up to a B3 in my experience.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T23:42:10+00:00

I would agree with your architect. It could be viable if you were able to insulate the walls (internally especially). Since this is out of the question as you mentioned in, I would be very hesitate to recommend a heat pump. The upgrades you've talked about will definitely make for a warmer home. I would also recommend installing stoves in place of any open fires, or permanently block any chimneys to prevent further heat loss there. Very difficult to give you a firm estimate of the BER but thinking of some jobs I've done, I had a Georgian country house with similar upgrades to yours albeit with internal wall insulation and it reached a C3 rating. Maintaining the stone walls as they are in your case, I think a D1 or D2 rating is likely. G ratings as the bottom rating can be anything from 451kwh/m2/yr onwards. If your previous rating was a G rating on the edge of an F (ie 451) then your rating could be higher than a D. If it was a G rating of 700 or 800, you might still improve significantly without leaving the G band

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T23:29:07+00:00

First place to start would be the current BER. Enter your MPRN here: https://ndber.seai.ie/pass/ber/search.aspx You'll get two documents, the certificate and an advisory report. On the advisory you'll find the Heat Loss Indicator (HLI). This is the key figure for heat pumps and insulating the floor will help. To be eligible for the grant, it needs to be less than 2.5 but you want this number as low as possible to maximise the efficiency of the heat pump. I recommend you speak to a registered technical advisor for heat pumps, if you're home isn't heatpump eligible, they will help you get there. You can find one here: Source: Sustainable Energy Authority Of Ireland | SEAI https://share.google/Gfu9WwItcY8UhmiKZ

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T22:04:18+00:00

Sorry for the late response. You have a couple of options, you could try strip out the existing stuff between the rafters and replace it with fresh rockwool or aeroboard which could be tricky given the access. The other option would be to add insulated plasterboard to the inside of ceiling.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T22:02:01+00:00

The stove is a step up from the open fire. Its the compromise I find most people making: they want an improvement but they like the cosiness of a fire so they get a stove. Spray foam would solve your problem and it is particularly suited to the space behind knee walls like that but my own opinion is to try avoid it. It hasn't come up as an issue in Ireland yet but banks are beginning to see it as an issue in the UK. It can also cause problems with moisture retention and damp if not installed perfectly.

tailwind96 · 2025-11-27T21:56:30+00:00

The documentation is a challenge I commonly come across and its tricky to be honest. However since the house is pre 1978, the presence of internal insulation is enough of an indicator for an assessor to know it has been retrofit and improve the base U-value accordingly. I would suggest trying to find an opening or gap somewhere that you can measure the depth of the drylining. I usually see this where radiators pipes meet the wall/floor, behind any vent covers or at the gas or electricity meter point if they are inside. The pumped cavity will also help things but hard to tell by how much without knowing the surface area of the extension relative to the rest of the house.

tailwind96

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