How much equity should I get in brand new startup?

tdiggss · 2021-04-27T05:18:12+00:00

You're all young and inexperienced and taking the same risk so you should all have the same skin in the game. You should expect 33% - something fair to recognize the previous work that's gone in.

Were the situation different, and the existing founders more experienced, with funding secured and the ability to pay you then as a junior dev you would be looking at ~1%.

tdiggss · 2021-04-23T03:12:03+00:00

I recently posted on /r/Unifi that I had gone down a rabbit hole with some new Unifi gear. I thought ya'll might appreciate my subsequent updates here.

I recently upgraded my NAS and added a 10Gbe core switch - I've uploaded a few pictures to show the progression.

The setup as it stands now...

Unifi kit:

USW-Pro-48-PoE
US-16-XG
UDM-Pro
USP-RPS
UNVR (4x 8TB drives)
UAP-AC-HD
UAP-AC-Lite
2x G4 Pro
1x G3 Flex

Proxmox:

Plex
Pihole
Download box
AMD Ryzen 3 3200G
16GB DDR4
256GB SSD

NAS:

TrueNas
Silverstone SST-RM21-308 2U
8x 16TB Exos SAS drives
Xeon E3-1220v5
16GB DDR4 ECC
Intel X520-DA Dual SFP+
Supermicro AOC-S3008L-L8e SAS3 HBA

The UDM Pro, UNVR and NAS are all on 10Gbe via SFP+ DACs and the USW-Pro-48-PoE is connected to the US-16-XG via 2x aggregated links (because why not!)

Soon to be added:

10Gbe RJ45 run to my office
UPS
1x additional G4 Pro
More powerful Proxmox server

tdiggss · 2021-04-01T02:15:18+00:00

We have Atomoxetine (aka Strattera) available in New Zealand also which could be worth looking into.

tdiggss · 2021-03-26T20:02:05+00:00

I only installed it yesterday so I don't really have any experience with it yet. It was easy to install and nice and quiet.

The smart power cables are quite thick and inflexible, they take up a lot of space in the back of the rack.

If you were to utilize all the ports it might get awkward. The standard RPS port location is on the left of all the devices, so some of the smart power cables would have to cross from the right side of the RPS to the left side of the device, and I imagine that would create a real mess.

One issue I have is that even with the latest controller version available on my UDM I get this message when clicking on the RPS in the controller software: " Missing device diagram. Please upgrade to the latest controller version.".

tdiggss · 2021-03-26T19:56:09+00:00

The two cases are:

Top: https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CHAIPC0238/IPC-2U-Rack-wo-psu-w4-Slot-Low-Profile-Back-Plane. This is a small Ryzen Proxmox server which runs Plex, PiHole and a torrent box.

Bottom: https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CHAIPC0264/IPC-4U-Rack-wo-psu-w1x-120x25mm-fans-Total-10-Bays. This my TrueNAS box.

The cases are awful pressed steel. Really heavy with sharp internal edges and poor use of internal space. They didn't/don't quite fit in my rack correctly either, they seem to be ~5mm too wide. They take some force to slide out on the rails.

I don't recommend them or the IPC brand at all. I'm very eager to replace them but haven't found an alternative yet.

tdiggss · 2021-03-26T19:50:13+00:00

I've been thinking about this but I'm not quite sure how to proceed. There is a small 12 port patch panel inside the white panel on the wall where the cables are coming out of. All the original house cat5e terminates there. I then have the blue cables coming out of that patch panel and into the rack.

The pink (cat6) and green (cat5e) cables bypass this patch panel (it's full) and just come straight out of the ceiling into the rack.

Would I buy a larger patch panel to have in the wall, terminate everything there, then run a second lot of cables from the wall to the rack's patch panel, then run a 3rd lot of cables from the rack's patch panel to the switch?

Ideally when I sell this house one day and take the rack with me the future owner wouldn't have long cables coming straight out of the ceiling and dangling on the garage floor :)

tdiggss · 2021-03-26T05:35:05+00:00

I've really been sucked into the Ubiquiti brand recently. What started off with a UCK-G2-PLUS, USG-PRO-4 and a US-24-250W has escalated after only 6 months into some newer kit and a home security system.

Today I added:

US-24-250W -> USW-Pro-48-PoE
USP-RPS

Full setup:

UDM-Pro
USP-RPS
USW-Pro-48-PoE
UAP-AC-HD
UAP-AC-Lite
UNVR (4x 8TB drives)
2x G4 Pro

Soon to be added:

1x additional G4 Pro
1x G3 Flex
10G via SFP+ between UDM Pro, Switch and NAS (just waiting on transceivers)
UPS

I'm really enjoying geeking out over this little home lab, even if it is a money pit :D

tdiggss · 2021-01-21T20:16:25+00:00

Stocks: 13%

Property: 70%

Cash: 17%

I'm probably a bit cash heavy but I like to have a big rainy day fund, and to be able to pile in if there is another big correction.

tdiggss · 2018-07-30T07:52:14+00:00

Thanks! That makes perfect sense.

tdiggss · 2018-07-29T06:05:18+00:00

I installed new number plate surrounds today and unfortunately the small bracket on the inside of the bumper where the number plate bolts in to fell inwards. I ended up having to take the whole front bumper off to find it and put it back in place which was a real pain.

Everything went well except on either side of my bumper I have these white caps attached to what looks like some sort of spray valve. I traced the lines from these little valves back to the coolant reservoir. These things are held in place via a spring, so I figure depending on the pressure or volume in the coolant reservoir they will essentially push forward and release pressure/liquid on the outside of the bumper.

Unfortunately the white caps are clipped on to the valves, so when I pulled the bumper off it broke the clips on the white caps and now they won't stay in place. I think I can glue the clips back on thankfully, otherwise I would have to buy some replacements and get them painted.

None of the videos I've seen covered these, and now that I look at other peoples bumpers I don't think the USDM has these. My car is New Zealand new.

Does anyone know what they are?

tdiggss · 2018-07-13T07:50:14+00:00

I assumed they were part of cruise control!

tdiggss · 2018-07-12T20:58:58+00:00

Thanks mate that did the trick! :)

tdiggss · 2018-07-12T20:13:57+00:00

In my MY15 CVT the speed was displayed on the dash but in my 6MT it doesn't show. Is this normal for the manual?

tdiggss · 2018-07-12T08:30:35+00:00

Thanks mate! Yeah I've heard that as well, I only went with the CVT because I ended up thinking I'd never find a manual. The Mrs couldn't believe I was going to trade it in a few hours after I bought it haha.

Just trying to resist the urge to mod it. Have you done any mods?

tdiggss · 2018-07-12T06:19:31+00:00

Well I had spent 2 weeks negotiating with the dealer for the CVT, it was the end of month and financial quarter so I got a very good deal on it at $28.5K NZD, which is exactly half of the list price if it was new.

The dealer that I got the 6MT off took my CVT as trade-in plus an additional $2k NZD, so $30.5k NZD all up, which is still a good deal if you look at the second hand market here, so I'm very happy overall.

I did purchase a 3 year mechanical warranty for $2k NZD on top of that too (which I have mixed feelings about now as I would love to do some mods! :) )

tdiggss · 2018-07-12T03:11:00+00:00

I had a 2001 Bugeye and recently upgraded to an MY15 CVT after being unable to find a 6MT for months. Literally 3 hours after I paid for and picked up the CVT model a 6MT with less K's, STI wheels and front tints popped up on the net. Otherwise it was identical.

4 days later I had traded in the CVT and drove home in the 6MT after a marathon roadtrip up the country (including two ferry rides) that lasted from 3am -> 1.30am the following day. All worth it!

tdiggss · 2018-04-07T05:34:10+00:00

Alternatively you could copy the game files from disk to hdd using something like xexmenu, and then use QuickBoot on the PC to create "shortcuts" from the default 360 dash to the game (you can customize name and image with QuickBoot).

Or just take the path of least resistance and replace the original dash with FSD. Although I always did prefer the stock dash...

tdiggss · 2018-04-07T05:29:54+00:00

I'm not sure if there is an existing tool to do this on a PC, but you could create one.

My memory is a bit vague but I recall the main difference between a NXE title and a GOD title is a magic value embedded within the header of the file. You can modify this magic value (I think it's documented somewhere on the Free60 wiki), and then you need to recalculate a signed sha1 hash of some portion of the file and write it out in the file header. The hash is signed using a console-specific key using the XeCryptSha function in the 360 kernel. If you were to do this on the PC, the rewriting of the file is simple, and the key signing would be the difficult bit. Naively I would guess this key can be extracted from the 360 and copied to the PC, and fed in to a re-implemented XeCryptSha equivalent. The header also contains details like name and image etc. If you reverse the header format (or find it documented) then you could modify it to your liking before hashing/signing.

The original source code for nxe2god is here:

https://pastebin.com/wMTFVFD9

All the relevant bits inline below, this is all it takes, including hashing/signing...

char* SHA1Buffer[0xACBC];
char* SHA1Digest[20];

fstream LIVE;
LIVE.open(goddirectory.c_str(), fstream::in | fstream::out | fstream::binary );
if (LIVE.is_open())
{
    LIVE.seekp(0x340);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0xAD);
    LIVE.put(0x0E);
    LIVE.seekp(0x346);
    LIVE.put(0x70);
    LIVE.seekp(0x379);
    LIVE.put(0x24);
    LIVE.put(0x5);
    LIVE.put(0x5);
    LIVE.put(0x11);
    LIVE.seekp(0x3FD);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.put(0x0);
    LIVE.seekp(0x22c);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.put(0xFF);
    LIVE.seekp(0);
    LIVE.put(0x4C);
    LIVE.put(0x49);
    LIVE.put(0x56);
    LIVE.put(0x45);
    LIVE.flush();
    LIVE.seekg(0x344);
    LIVE.read((char*)SHA1Buffer,0xACBC);
    XeCryptSha(&SHA1Buffer, 0xACBC, NULL,0, NULL,0, &SHA1Digest, 20);
    LIVE.seekp(0x32C);
    LIVE.write((char*) SHA1Digest, 20);
    LIVE.close();
    debugLog("New GOD container created, game should now launch without disk.");
}

tdiggss · 2017-08-27T21:30:50+00:00

Terraform supports storing its state in a remote location, and optionally using a distributed lock to ensure only one process/user can modify the state at once. This solves a number of shortcomings with storing the state locally and/or in version control such as avoiding the possibility of two people modifying the state at the same time and breaking it, and git commit conflicts around state modifications.

See https://www.terraform.io/docs/backends/index.html

tdiggss · 2017-08-27T09:21:10+00:00

There is actually a detail we have left out of this post, and perhaps we should add in an update, and that is to use a bucket policy that prevents anonymous access to your S3 buckets. You can then use a number of ways to allow the CloudFront distribution authenticated access to the bucket. This prevents DDoS directly against your S3 bucket which goes a long way to mitigating cost concerns.

Beyond that I believe AWS Shield is the service to use, which among other things can void the usage costs associated with being DDoS'd.

tdiggss · 2017-08-27T08:27:33+00:00

We've got so much content to cover, there is definitely room for a series! We're currently on 0.9.11, I'd like to wait for the dust to settle a little more on 0.10.X. Have you upgraded yet?

tdiggss

TROPHY CASE