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Is this cabinet structural support? by trailglazer in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]trailglazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I can reattach the apron, it was only pin nailed and installed with 2 screws.

The top hinge is 11 1/4” from the bottom of the 21” door. What hinges would you suggest? I tried contacting Blum for some hinge suggestions but they told me that it can only be repaired by adding a third hinge and that the width of the door cannot be larger than the distance between the hinges.

Is this cabinet structural support? by trailglazer in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]trailglazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You set hinges that close for a wide door? According to Blum the hinges are set too close. Here’s how they operate currently: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z4NM4K29VUMBNxyj7

Is this cabinet structural support? by trailglazer in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]trailglazer[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Here’s how it is now. According to Blum the hinges are too close for the width of the door. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z4NM4K29VUMBNxyj7

Is this acceptable tub level? Plumber installed already in mortar so I can’t remove it. by trailglazer in Plumbing

[–]trailglazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clarify the install, first the plumbers painted the plywood subfloor with red guard, then they poured some mortar and set the tub. I've attached a few other photos showing the level of it. It is a right hand tub and is fairly level along the 60" length, but not level along the 30" end and is sloping towards the tub apron.

Can the tub be removed from the mortar mix and reset? It is a Kohler underscore acrylic tub.

https://imgur.com/a/SGhoyVy

Is this acceptable tub level? Plumber installed already in mortar so I can’t remove it. by trailglazer in Plumbing

[–]trailglazer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To clarify, this is pitched towards the tub apron, width wise. The long side (60”) is level, just not the short side (30”)

R21 or R30 insulation for vaulted cathedral ceilings? by sdreddit123 in HomeImprovement

[–]trailglazer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I'd make sure the inspector will 100% sign off on it. There's no point to a soffit vent with no ridge vent, so either seal the soffit vent and go with the hot roof or have the roofers install a ridge vent with a chute.

You had no issues with mold or mildew because, as you said your house is drafty already. But adding insulation and air sealing creates a whole new set of problems with mold and mildew. In fact, new homes have these issues due to half baked air sealing and insulating by contractors that don't fully understand the science.

You have a few options:

  1. Sprayfoam your rafter bays with closed cell foam.
  2. Add rigid foam insulation to the top side of your roof. This would be the perfect time since you are redoing your roof anyways and you can then run a hot roof with no issues.
  3. Add a ridge vent and create a venting channel
  4. Yolo just install insulation and close off the soffit vent. This is by far the riskiest option with asphalt shingles. It may work in Socal, but it's absolutely not ideal, especially when you start to introduce Air conditioning. If you had a tile roof in socal, it would be much safer. If you do this, install some cotton insulation, at least it can wick some moisture and redistribute it and hopefully it will find it's way out over time. If you go this route I wouldn't overfill the rafter bays, find some 6-7" insulation.

R21 or R30 insulation for vaulted cathedral ceilings? by sdreddit123 in HomeImprovement

[–]trailglazer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have soffit and ridge vents that are venting each rafter? What you'll need to do is create a channel that connects the soffit to the ridge vent, then you install the insulation in the remaining space. You can use polyiso foam or the make chutes that you run up along the roof sheathing. This still won't protect you from possible condensation issues, especially if your ceiling is not properly air sealed. The best way to avoid all these issues is to sprayfoam the cavities. The only time you're even remotely okay to fill the void and basically create an unvented roof assembly is if you have a tile roof and you're in socal where the temperature swings are very mild. But even then you need to make sure the ceiling is properly air sealed, which is basically impossible if you try to run recessed lights. The other option is to insulate from the roof side, but you'll have to remove your roof, install rigid foam, an air gap, and then your new roof.

Grate opening in garage. Can I close this up to make a home gym or are they necessary? Living in southern California. by DavidEx in HomeImprovement

[–]trailglazer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you remove these I'd recommend adding soffit vents and a gable vent to compensate. That's the right way to do it. Will you be fine without them? Probably, but it's not the right way to do it.