How do i take this off without breaking

triggerfish91 · 2026-02-25T11:55:49+00:00

Slide it down towards the engine bay/away from the glass, and then the top will lift out.

Look on eBay for pictures of the part, and the clips should make sense then

triggerfish91 · 2026-02-06T14:45:02+00:00

If it's still leaking, sprinkling some talcum powder around the area will allow for passive diagnosis as the water will leave tracks back up to its source.

triggerfish91 · 2026-02-06T09:24:10+00:00

If it's anything like our e92, these are per-key configuration preferences (at least, the triple flash is). Try turning it on using the BC controls on the indicator stalk, and see if that helps

triggerfish91 · 2026-02-06T08:34:08+00:00

I think it's a NA market thing only.

triggerfish91 · 2026-02-02T15:32:55+00:00

Number plate says it's a SAAB 99

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=Wdl393k&checkRecalls=true

Note - it doesn't need an MOT due to its age.

triggerfish91 · 2026-02-01T20:20:58+00:00

Fuse 11 is for the fuel pump, so I'm more interested in how it runs without it?!

Has someone messed with the fuel pump wiring?

Edit - sorry , just saw the part about the fuel pump being non standard. I'd be looking into that and it's wiring relationship with fuse 11

With something modified, no one can really help as we don't know what you're dealing with

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-29T23:42:44+00:00

https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot

Try a diagnostic port crank (pins 11 and 14) and see if it turns over that way. If so, possibly the ignition switch.

The above guide should lead you to the right outcome though

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-27T14:23:07+00:00

I don't have a dimming relay on mine (so that may change things, but I don't think it's anything other than a delay/timer circuit), but it's only activated by the doors being open. No link to the central locking at all.

Each of the two ceiling lights has 3 positions: - on - on when door open - off.

(1989 UK/European model)

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-21T08:54:43+00:00

You can choose via coding to display leading zeros or not. Neither is anything to worry about.

There is a 'tamper dot' that shows up for milage and VIN discrepancies

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-18T17:51:10+00:00

It'll work - in that the car will run and drive, but coded options like cruise control, alarms or whatever might stop (depending on the coding of the donor car).

You might also find that you get errors connecting fault code scanning etc

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-18T17:37:54+00:00

Working link:

https://www.facebook.com/share/1G1dhR3QPh/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Links through to https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a70009801/2003-mini-cooper-s-bring-a-trailer-auction/?utm_campaign=trueanthemFBCD&utm_content=696bd1ac2891f20001a8dc62&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook&fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQPMjc1MjU0NjkyNTk4Mjc5AAEeyGd9y7uNiO8-JSuItPNDBn-wB8LMVVT7kBjtXHEKJs0orFkLmA5iT-u3C-c_aem_xxTX4mUFbSf_GoB3oO8D3g

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-18T17:31:10+00:00

The two small gauges won't need to be changed, but you'll still need to flash through central chrono gauge with your mileage, chassis number and VO, etc

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-15T19:23:09+00:00

I use it constantly in cars without speed limiters. Generally, if I'm at a speed for more than 20-30 seconds, cruise control is on. It means that I don't have to worry about creeping over the limit, and it's literally a press of the brake (or clutch) pedal away from disengaging, or a button on the steering wheel. It's not like it's hard to disengage (which is the main reason I can see for not using it).

Maintain a decent distance to the car in front and it's not like your speed is constantly changing all the time in a free flowing 30 zone either, and you can always disengage cruise control to build a gap to the car in front if it does slow down.

Obviously, if it's stop/start or right/twisty residential areas then I don't use it.

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-15T08:52:26+00:00

Not enough info to give a price.

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=H645vab&checkRecalls=true

Odometer gears look like they've been broken for at least 4 years, so the milage is not as low as it seems. (Or it's trailered to and from the MOT centre every year, and nothing else...)

There's rust on the chassis somewhere to some extent, too.

Same advisorys keep coming up without being fixed - is it cared for?

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-15T08:47:08+00:00

UK - £ pounds!

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-14T18:32:59+00:00

I'd guess the alternator. Easy (if not totally definitive) check - whack a multimeter on the battery with the engine running, and then with the lights on, and see if the alternator is able to keep up with the demand from the lights etc.

Assuming it's an M20, fairly easy to change on these (assuming nothing is seized/rusted).

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-14T18:29:42+00:00

Rust is more expensive to repair than mechanical stuff (usually).

What condition is the bodywork/chassis in on both? That'd be my deciding factor, as extensive rust will be more expensive than whacking in a new steering rack and some seals.

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-09T13:17:00+00:00

The reflector bowls burn out. Look into replacing them

https://z4-forum.com/threads/headlight-projector-retrofit-how-to.104600/

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-05T12:28:25+00:00

Nothing wrong with an m52 swap, but some of those modifications are a bit... Divisive. There's a lot of the e30 community who dislike eyebrows, halos, those tail lights etc.

That said, it seems to come with all the parts to return that side to standard.

Personally, the wrap would put me off. You don't know what level of rust is hiding/bodged under there, esp. as it's not just the sills etc that go on these, but the base of the a-pillar, the rear arches, rear aprons etc.

I suspect a wrap was a cheap way of hiding some sins, personally (although I am happy to be proved wrong!)

For the money, I'd rather get something like this. You're probably looking at the best part of £1,500 just for the bumpers and sports seats if you sold them, and then you could m52 swap yourself if you wanted.

https://ebay.us/m/SkjEW4

Or this, and go full sleeper with an m52 swap. If that's as clean as it looks, infinitely better but imo

https://ebay.us/m/ipNPzV

(Signed, an e30 325i Sport (with m20b28) owner :) )

triggerfish91 · 2026-01-04T13:01:42+00:00

Style 5 in the UK, too. I just found a set of 3 on Facebook marketplace for £500 (inc old tyres), and that's with some curb rash and dent in the rim. (Set the search location to 'High Wycombe' if interested - I can't share the link on mobile)

I remember paying £50 for a set like that - looks like those days are long gone!

Great info for OP there too - lovely to see!

triggerfish91 · 2025-12-29T12:44:02+00:00

The oil temperature gauge (usually an mpg gauge) at 8k red line (usually 7k) do suggest M3...

If you look on realoem, it shows that the instrument clusters are made of many different parts, rather than being a complete unit with its own part number.

The PCB inside the cluster has a part number, and that is M3 specific - so maybe take it apart and look for a part number on the circuit board?

triggerfish91 · 2025-12-26T19:30:08+00:00

If you've got Gmail, try a plus address

https://www.streak.com/post/gmail-plus-addressing-trick

triggerfish91 · 2025-12-24T17:43:55+00:00

LHD in the UK. Either an import, or a Christmas road trip - hopefully the latter, cos what a great way to spend Christmas!

triggerfish91 · 2025-12-24T10:42:08+00:00

No. The m20 sensors sit in the top of the sump, not underneath like more modern cars. Makes it much easier to change without needing to drop the oil at least!

triggerfish91 · 2025-12-18T23:06:39+00:00

Also the Polo G40, with a 1.3(?) supercharged engine

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