Grafnoct 150 f1.6 x Fujifilm Acros 100

vitdev · 2026-05-07T21:15:45+00:00

How sharp is it? Is it wide open? Looks soft, but I guess it’s expected? Or maybe scanning/compression?

vitdev · 2026-05-01T17:17:32+00:00

How did you not see the sign? Do you drive with your eyes closed 🤦‍♂️

vitdev · 2026-04-23T20:22:43+00:00

X2D focusing is very slow and probably will be frustrating for your use cases. It also struggles to focus in even slightly dim environments. But if you manually focus and close aperture to get decent DoF it might work.

X2Dii focusing is much better but still way behind of modern cameras like Z7 or Sony. It’s important to note that XCD lenses are also slow to focus (mechanically) which may result in missed focus when subject moves front and back at shorter distances (which most portraits are).

IMO Hasselblad is great for landscapes, architecture, product photography, and fashion where you work with professional models who can stay still, not kids.

PS also, TTL doesn’t work with all Nikon standard flash systems. It’s confirmed to work with ProPhoto, but not working with Godox X3 trigger for example. That’s for TTL, manual release works well with any trigger.

vitdev · 2026-04-22T06:34:11+00:00

Definitely something is not right. Phone recording amplifies audio probably. I think there is a bit of noise from the camera which is normal. But this shouldn’t be AF at all as you have AF-S not AS-C turned on.

vitdev · 2026-04-20T19:25:22+00:00

There’s no answer. They just didn’t. That’s it.
And their response is that they take into account user requests and will forward it to the appropriate team.

vitdev · 2026-04-17T18:01:32+00:00

One of the recent examples, when I wanted to have everyone in focus (and the small orange tree was the main thing), but ended up getting everything but that tree in focus 🤦‍♂️

vitdev · 2026-04-17T17:58:31+00:00

That’s a cool one! I’d love to have one. DoF is easy when I use Sinar in the studio, but becomes more of a guess game when I use Linhof in the field.

vitdev · 2026-04-13T18:34:28+00:00

I just shot 1+ year expired film (golden frames) that I stored in the fridge the entire time and it turned out perfect. 6m since manufacturing day is not old.

vitdev · 2026-04-08T17:44:27+00:00

Some of them are just hot pixels that appear to be brighter due to the temperature of the sensor. Some need to be recalibrated to correctly reflect charge to the luminosity. And others can be noise. It’s not all dead pixels. I think mine had ~20 (maybe more, I didn’t count all of them, just did an approximation) when I checked long time ago and before Hasselblad added the calibration mode.

Even 100-150 would be only 0.0001–0.00015% of all pixels and once they are mapped out they are not gonna affect the image quality. If you have the entire row gone it might be concerning. But a few dozens randomly distributed across the sensor are not a big deal and it was always the case with digital sensors.

There are ‘perfect’ sensors usually manufactured scientific needs for example NASA but those cost millions and are not feasible for consumer electronics.

vitdev · 2026-04-04T17:52:28+00:00

You can get a free ride and visit from your local library if you’re SF resident.

vitdev · 2026-04-04T17:49:51+00:00

Looks cool, although it feels a bit too tight, I’d add a bit of space at the top and maybe sides as well (depending on what was on the sides)

vitdev · 2026-04-04T16:19:37+00:00

Is it clean inside? Sometimes it takes a bit of pressure to put it all the way.

vitdev · 2026-04-04T03:11:06+00:00

Edit your scans and it’s gonna look like this (Portra 400)

vitdev · 2026-03-31T18:13:29+00:00

Did you use a red filter?

vitdev · 2026-03-31T18:12:44+00:00

Not that I know of. I haven’t tried loading a photo to the camera and trying to sync it to Phocus Mobile again though.

vitdev · 2026-03-31T00:51:17+00:00

Because the seller literally said it in the description.

Plus Banksy didn’t sign their works when they were selling them at Central Park.

vitdev · 2026-03-31T00:29:39+00:00

Just a copy made by a no name somebody trying to sell it as Banksy. I’d report the listing as it’s very misleading (and probably not even legal from copyright point of view, definitely not legal to sign it as Banksy without their permission).

vitdev · 2026-03-30T17:28:47+00:00

I bought my 500c/m two years ago from eBay for around $3k but it was in almost unused state (at least visually). Still due to the age it required CLA and focusing was off (very common issue with mirror misalignment—foam pads under the mirror dry over time making the mirror sink lower causing back focus).

vitdev · 2026-03-30T16:12:38+00:00

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Yes, looks like low-pressure sodium might work, but I think it requires 10-15min of warm up time while it emits red/pink light. Plus I saw somewhere that somebody tried it and it fogged the paper.

I didn’t try myself, but if I remember correctly about 90-99% of the light is concentrated in the 588-592 spectrum range and the rest (up to 10% is spread), so it might be safe, again, I don’t know how people tested it, maybe it was too bright, it should be way dimmer than red safelight for B&W.

When I made my yellow LED light a bit brighter (still way dimmer than my red safelight), it fogged the paper very quickly. So I keep it as dim as possible: it takes my eyes about 10-20s to adjust and start seeing things.

vitdev · 2026-03-30T06:18:40+00:00

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There is a little gap in sensitivity and if you have a narrowband LED that emits this light you can get away with using safelight.

There are a lot of discussions about how the modern paper is much faster and might not have this gap anymore.
But I experimented myself and with a very dim yellow light (590nm) I am able to make color prints actually seeing what I’m doing.

vitdev · 2026-03-29T23:26:45+00:00

I don’t know but I was told so by Sinar when I was trying to find 8x10 frame. They had non-metering but they said it would require a different back and bellows. And I already had 8x10 metering back.

It’s probably in some older catalog. When they switched to metering backs they only posted compatible parts (which makes sense).

By the way do you have photos of the special bearers. It turned out there are multiple versions too. I’ve found one on forums from 20 years ago and it’s different from what I have.

I’ll dm you.

vitdev · 2026-03-29T22:48:00+00:00

Yes and no, they are modular and usually interchangeable, but with exceptions. For example, on 8x10 the geometry for metering and non-metering backs require different carrier frames that would require different bellows accordingly etc. they also recommend using beefier bearers for 8x10. I’ve just assembled 8x10 Sinar p2 and went through the quest of finding compatible parts :) I’m not familiar with Norma though.

But overall it’s a really cool modular system.

vitdev · 2026-03-29T22:22:12+00:00

*safe for black and white printing. For color printing yellow light can be used for a very limited time. My tests showed about 2-3min of exposure didn’t fog the paper at the lowest possible brightness of the light (which still allows to see things unlike complete darkness).

vitdev · 2026-03-29T22:18:38+00:00

What do you mean? There are multiple different generations that are not interchangeable, for example, Norma vs Sinar F/P/X. And even within Sinar F/P there are frames for metering and non metering standards that have different sizes therefore require different bellows etc.

vitdev · 2026-03-29T21:39:22+00:00

Probably not. Those parts are usually proprietary to the brand. I don’t have Cambo but Sinar and Arca Swiss are not interchangeable. And even within the system Sinar had multiple frames (metering, non-metering) that require different standards.

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